Bhagen05

I have also had mine replaced at the dealer in December of last year. It was gone for awhile until it came back. Mine only did/does it on low fan speeds.

I would say the second choice.

Thanks everyone! I have decided to order Copper Weather-Master S/T2 for my car. Just have to fond a good deal and get them on my wheels, than i'll be set for this winter.

If you OEM size is P225/50R17, than the size P245/45R17 will fit. You can go to Discount Tire and use there tire size calculator. It lists that size tire as an additional option size for you vehicle. My link

I am going to buy a set of snow tires for my car this coming winter. I had to drive to work last year during both snow storms. I made it there safe, but I want to have snow tires this time. I am stuck between two brand of tires. The tires are Cooper Weather Master S/T 2 or Hankook I*Peak W409. It is a 50/50 toss up on the tires, I have heard that the Hankook tire will be better. I am hoping that maybe someone here is more insight on which tire would be better to use. Thanks for the input! -Cooper Weather Master -Hankook W409

There are updates available for sync. You can go to syncs website My link to get additional help and see if you need to upgrade your system to get it working properly again. They have FAQ available and you can also chat with someone as well. I would contact them on there website before talking to the dealer, because all they'll say is that we can look at it and see if we can reset it. So good luck and hope all goes well!

No, all you need to do is remove the calipers and the rotor screws the hold them to the hub.

Just go to Tire Rack My link. They give you test results on all the tires they have. Real people can also comment on the tires that they have on there cars and get you real results. Especially from different weather conditions.

My car does the same exact thing when I start it up sometimes. The dealer wasn't really sure what to make of it. I asked a coworker of mine and he said its the coolant, it's normal for some cars to do that when first start up.

I am vary impressed with it. I would have to say that it is a good check sheet to use. I see nothing wrong with it. The way it is written up is almost just like Auto shops and Dealers.

I have not heard of any known issue with a popping noise when accelerating or turning right. My best guess would be that the struts and coil springs are weak. The coil spring may not be working properly anymore and is causing that noise. I would take it to the dealer and ask for a Technician that works with the front end and go for a test drive with you. I work on cars for my job and from what you said it seems to be a strut issue, but not entirely sure by just reading it. I would at least stop by the dealer to verify the issue that you have.

Just look at the vehicle history report. I have a 2009 Mercury Milan I4 and haven't had it break down on the road. I have some friends that bought a used Milan and they love it. They liked the Milan over the Fusion. Of course it's all based on your preference. You can also go to My link. They have real owners tell people about the car. what they like and dislike about the car.

Ok, so the code is is saying coolant temp below coolant thermostat's regulating temp. At the millage you are saying your vehicle is at, there is not a whole that can be done that you haven't done. However, the coolant system should typically get checked and flushed at about 60,000-90,000 and after that it gets flushed every 45,000 miles. Other than that the spark plug could also get replaced but is not necessary until about 100,000 miles. You can also refer to this maintenance schedule that Ford recommends. My link

There really isn't a drain plug in a way. You have to place a drain pan under the transaxle and disconnect the transmission fluid cooler return line from the transaxle (the line closest to the driver). then point the hose into the drain pan. (the wind deflector may not have to be removed). Then you have to start the vehicle and let it run at idle speed until three quarts of fluid is pumped out of the line. Then shut the engine off. Remove the transmission dip stick and add three quarts of correct transmission fluid for the vehicle. You'll have to repeat those steps about two more times before you reconnect the cooler return line back up. Once everything is done and connected, check and top off fluid. You'll have to drive the vehicle a few miles (5-10) that way the engine will be at normal operating temp. Of course after you drive it you should re-check the fluid level and add any more if necessary. Of course you could continue to do it the way you described, or take it to an authorized dealer.

You should be fine. There should still be enough clearance to remove it without anything other part being taken off. I have only been in there once and from what I can remember you'll have access to it by removing only the fender cover and the belt.

I am just curious, I have read that there can be a fungus on the evaporator core which causes a weird smell when using the A/C for the first minute. I know the dealer can do it for a cost, but I also know that it can be done by the home mechanic. I am just wondering if someone has already done this and if it was easier than it seems? Also what A/C cleaner they had used? I have checked the evaporator drain hose and I can't see nothing clogging it (only able to get a birds eye View of it). Any help will be nice, thanks!

Does it sound like someone dumped water across your windshield and you hear the water running down? If so it is just your coolant running through the lines. My car does that form time-to-time and it is a normal sound/noise, it is nothing to worry about.

Agreed, the tint I have installed on my 09 Milan is non-metallic window tint. I have not had any problems with service or anything with this window tint. I have been told to get non-metallics installed on newer cars for that reason.

I would go with the first or the second choice. I was actually looking at getting the American Racing wheel for my car. I had gone to the shop that sells them and they took the display wheel at put it against my car so I could see what it had looked like. I will say that it looked really nice, would look nice for your red color car.

Well I believe its the door panel it self or something behind it that could be banging up against something. When it does rattle I can hear and when I press my knee up against the panel it goes away. I am thinking about putting something in there to keep pressure built up so it won't rattle, but not entirely sure what I could use at this point.