dslai

Thanks for your reply. On the ramps, can you point to any specific plastic ramps that are better? The auto shops around me basically all have $60-$65 RhinoRamps (same ones at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0117EETEK). For the oil filter, I am planning to get a Motorcraft one. Ford lists two different FL910S filter models that are supposed to be compatible for my 2011 Fusion. Not sure if your 2012 uses the same, but trying to understand what's the difference between the two Motorcraft models. For the oil drain plug, does yours look like the one at https://parts.ford.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/en/us/transmission/powertrain-engine-parts/engine-oil-drain-plug-engine-oil-pan-drain-plug-m12-x-175-p-ej7z6730b?pdp=y? This is one is silver colored with a green washer/gasket underneath the head. Based on the diagram on the page for the oil drain plug, it looks like the plug goes into a different black gasket part (that I think is for https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/transmission/powertrain-engine-parts/engine-oil-drain-plug-gasket-engine-oil-pan-drain-plug-gasket-227-mm-p-f5tz6734ba?pdp=y#/adCarousel). You have never replaced this black gasket (part F5TZ6734BA)?

Hi, I'm going to be doing an oil change myself for the first time on my 2011 Ford Fusion SE 2.4L. Had a few questions. - I'm planning to get plastic car ramps to elevate the car. Would the $60 Harbor Freight ones at https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/ramps/13000-lb-gvwr-capacity-portable-vehicle-ramp-set-63956.html work ok or are there better ones? I also need to be able to use the car ramps for a 2015 Honda Odyssey. What should I look for in getting good quality car ramps? - I know that the oil filter for the car is FL-910S. When I enter my VIN into the ford parts web site and browse on oil filters (https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/filters/oil-filters), it shows me two compatible oil filters with part numbers "FL910SB12 (BE8Z6731AC)" and "FL910S (BE8Z6731AB)". What's the difference between these and is one of them preferred over the other? - I've read that when doing oil changes, it's recommended to replace the washer/gasket around the drain plug bolt. I think they are usually made of metal. I'm trying to find which part I need to do this replacement. Is it the one for part number F5TZ6734BA (https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/transmission/powertrain-engine-parts/engine-oil-drain-plug-gasket-engine-oil-pan-drain-plug-gasket-227-mm-p-f5tz6734ba?pdp=y)? This seems to be made of rubber though so I'm wondering does it really need to be replaced. - I was looking at the oil drain plugs for my car and came across part numbers F6TZ6730BA (https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/transmission/powertrain-engine-parts/engine-oil-drain-plug-engine-oil-pan-drain-plug-22mm-m14-x-15-p-f6tz6730ba?pdp=y) and EJ7Z6730B (https://parts.ford.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/en/us/transmission/powertrain-engine-parts/engine-oil-drain-plug-engine-oil-pan-drain-plug-m12-x-175-p-ej7z6730b?pdp=y). The Ford site says that both of these are compatible for my car, but how can this be if they have different diameters (M14 vs M12)? Also, in the photos for both, they seem to include a green or black rubber gasket under the bolt head. Is this equivalent to the the gasket for part number F5TZ6734BA? I don't think I need to replace the oil drain plug, but just trying to understand if I should replace the gasket for the plug each time I do an oil change and if so, how to get this gasket (e.g. would I need to buy the oil drain plug if I wanted to replace the gasket for it in case the gasket isn't sold separately)? Thanks in advance for any help with these questions.

Was cleaning the inside of my 2011 Ford Fusion 2.5L I4 and on the floor of the front passenger seat, I found a black flange hex bolt. I'm not absolutely sure, but my guess is that it came from the car. The thread diameter is about 3/16" and length is about 5/8" (measured from the flange to the tip of the thread). On the head of the bolt, it's stamped with 0I0. Does anyone have an idea where it may have come from? Here are some pictures.

So someone was able to help me with this and they just used a flat blade screwdriver to pry up the battery cable clamp off the terminal from different angles until the whole clamp could be pulled up and over the terminal post. By the way, that battery terminal puller tool reminds me of a plumbing tool to help pull off stuck faucet handles or compression sleeves off water pipes (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-03876-Handle-Sleeve/dp/B07DNPBJZD). I could have borrowed such a plumbing tool so I wonder now if that would have been able to help me with this. Maybe I'll find out next time.

I would not trust even a Ford dealership to do a battery test. They regularly advertise a free battery check (https://owner.ford.com/maintenance/service-coupons-and-offers.html?coupon=bt03&offer=have-your-battery-tested-at-no-charge) and when I took my 2011 Fusion to a local dealer back in 2014 to check my battery since I suspected it was having issues (it was having occasional problems starting my car), I recall they did like a 1 minute test where they hooked the battery up to some kind of portable handheld device that printed out a receipt that had some information on it, which declared the battery was good. Now that I think of it, probably that device was just something like a multimeter to test the voltage with a built-in printer. But even though I couldn't reproduce the problem with starting up the car there, I insisted either the car or battery had some issue and asked them to look into it further, which they did for an hour or two and declared they couldn't find any issue. They only added some water to the battery and I paid around $150 for the visit. At that time, I was a bit stupid and thought it was unlikely to be a battery issue since the car/battery were purchased new just over 3 years earlier and I didn't think a battery could fail so soon so that's why I brought the car to a dealer to see if something else was defective (e.g. alternator). I should have just bought a new battery with that $150 because the next day, the car couldn't start again so I jump started and drove it to the dealer again. Once there, I could reproduce the problem of not being able to start the car. The problem was obviously with the battery and they no explanation for why they couldn't determine that the day before. I was only offered free installation of a new battery after buying one there (normally around a $30 charge).

I'm around the San Francisco area. So everything is more expensive here. I would love to be able to pay only $40 for The Works service.

Do you mean https://owner.ford.com/maintenance/service-coupons-and-offers.html? I've checked that page before but have never seen a stated price for The Works service. Right now for me, on that page, there is a link to https://owner.ford.com/maintenance/service-coupons-and-offers.html?coupon=sr01&offer=the-works-synthetic-blend-oil-change-and-more, which shows no price, but also states "Expires 12/31/2020". If there are coupons periodically released for $39.95 that are good nationwide, it would be good if anyone who finds out that such a coupon has been released to post the news here.

Thanks for that puller tool suggestion. That sounds like exactly what I need. I was not aware such a tool exists so I will look into that more. The nut is already loosened up almost all the way off the screw (as shown in the picture of my first post) and I can easily slide the screw side to side. So I don't think I can do anything more on this point. Unless removing the nut in order to remove the screw would help?

Update: So some progress on this but still not able to remove the battery. Found I had a can of multi purpose lubricant and sprayed it around the negative terminal and battery clamp. Using a plier, I could then loosen it up to get the clamp to swivel around the battery terminal. However, I cannot figure out how to lift the clamp up over the terminal in order to detach it. On the positive terminal, I can lift the clamp up over the terminal to detach it by lifting up on the part of the battery cable that's almost horizontal with the top of the battery as seen in this picture. But on the negative terminal, the cable from it goes straight down and I can't pull up on it like on the positive terminal side. Then I noticed the cable with the purple stripe that's coming out of the battery cable. It's attached on the other end to a metal block with a bolt. I thought removing this bolt to detach the purple striped cable from the metal block might help me in case it was preventing the main battery cable from turning in the proper direction . But as I started loosening the bolt, it started to create some small sparks so I figured I should stop and not do this. I'm not sure if I need to get the battery cable clamp around the terminal loosened up even more in order to remove it. Right now, it's loose enough such that I can swivel the clamp when moving the battery cable sideways.

I started this thread a couple years ago, but just wanted to provide an update. I found out my local dealer is now charging $89.99 for The Works service. Not willing to pay that kind of premium for getting service at a Ford dealer. I went with my local Goodyear store to get a synthetic blend oil change and tire rotation, but it still cost about $60 + tax. I guess there's just been a lot of inflation for car service the past couple years.

Hi, I need to replace the battery in my 2011 Ford Fusion 2.5L I4. I'm having trouble removing it though. I've loosened the nuts on the cables that attach to the battery, and I've also removed the plastic retaining piece on the left bottom of the battery that holds it in place. I can remove the battery cable from the positive terminal, but I'm not able to on the negative terminal. There doesn't appear to be any corrosion on the negative terminal, but it simply doesn't budge when I try to swivel the cable to loosen it from the terminal. The nut has been loosened almost to the point where it will come off. I'm not sure what to try. Would spraying WD40 or silicon spray help in this case? Of course, I don't want to damage anything by spraying something I'm not supposed to. Thanks for any advice.

Thanks everyone for their comments. Lesson learned for me to be careful how much a dealer could increase prices for this service. Like I said in my first post, I'm probably going to take my business elsewhere for future oil changes on this car.

Was searching on other Ford dealers within my general regional area (within a 2 hour drive). Another place I called did say that the service was $39.95. Then I found this dealer, https://www.towneford.com/schedule-service/, which has a coupon that advertises it for $69.95. I called this place to confirm the price and they also said it was $69.95. So looks like the price can vary a lot even in the same general area. I always thought before that it was a standard price nationwide that was set by Ford.

Located in the San Francisco area. Maybe it just costs more here (like all other things)? I don't know if there is regional pricing for "The Works" service?

Yeah, I looked into using Quick Lane before, but the closest one is too far away for me while the Ford dealer is much closer. I do see that Quick Lane still advertises "The Works" service for $39.95 or less at https://www.quicklane.com/current-specials/oil-change-coupons.html. I cannot believe why a Ford dealer would charge so much more for the same service when Quick Lane is also owned by Ford.