MikeTempesta

Actually, I'm no expert, but the concept is sound. Whether it does what it's supposed to is another matter. I have implemented a similar low tech solution to fool the ECU in my girlfriend's car. Girlfriend has an old Subaru Impreza, and the catalytic converter is on its way out, which used to cause her check engine light to frequently go on. She's not technical, and she used to believe that if the engine light goes on the car is seconds away from exploding (I've made progress on this front as she doesn't freak out quite as bad anymore). Anyway, the ECU compares the readings of the front (pre cat) O2 sensor with the rear (post cat) O2 sensor. The front O2 sensor is supposed to variable readings, and the rear O2 sensor is supposed to reflect constant readings. The thought process is in this situation, the cat must be working properly as its normalizing the exhaust readings. If both the front and rear O2 sensors reflect the same variable readings, then the cat isn't doing anything, and check engine light goes on. I corrected this by reaming out and installing a spark plug fouler to act as a spacer between the rear O2 sensor and the exhaust gasses. By essentially distancing/shielding the O2 sensor from the exhaust stream, the readings from that O2 sensor normalize, the ECU thinks everything is A-OK, and check engine light stays off. This mod (or hack) has been in place for over a year and the light hasn't gone on once (used to go on once every 3 days or so). So, a $5 part gets my GFs car through inspection and saves her from spending big bucks on a new cat. Unfortunately, I later found out the consequences of this mod, as her gas mileage has gone way down, most likely due to the computer altering the fuel mix to compensate for the (deliberately misleading) rear O2 readings showing a very lean mixture. Didn't think that thought Here's where I got the idea: Link ANYWAY, my point is this ebay part appears to be based on the same principle.

I believe that is indeed what is actually located in that spot. It doesn't illuminate when the car starts so the next time I go for a ride I'll engage the cruise control and report back.

Thanks to all. My assumption, corroborated by my owners manual didn't jive with the dealer's answer, so was just looking for another opinion. Truthfully, I'd prefer the obnoxious light, along with an obnoxious sound. I'm a rather oblivious person BBF 1st printing: January 2009 Page 17 schematic of dash clearly shows the light. I think its mentioned again later on, but page 17 was what I had latched on to.

Hey all. Just purchased a certified pre-owned 2010 Ford Fusion Sport AWD about 300 miles ago, with about 2500 miles left on the bumper to bumper. Still going through the options with a fine tooth comb to make sure everything works before warranty expires. Today I was fairly low on gas, with my information display saying '17 MILES UNTIL EMPTY LOW FUEL", however as I was pulling into the gas station, it occurred to me that aside from the informational display, my car didn't have a 'low fuel light' (obnoxiously bright, shaped like a gas pump) that illuminated to let me know I was low. Before I pumped the gas, I cut the ignition and restarted the car, checking to see what illuminated on the dash. No dice. Checking the owners manual suggests I'm supposed to have one, near the gas gauge. So, I call the dealership. They inform me because I have a Sport with the information display (e.g. 17 MILES UNTIL EMPTY LOW FUEL) my car doesn't come with a low fuel light. I'm just looking for corroboration, as that doesn't seem right. Thanks in advance.

I was reading this thread from the beginning and amazed that no one else said this before now. I just got my Fusion two weeks ago, and day 3 walking by it in my driveway, I noticed the hood was unlocked but still latched. I checked the car door and it too was unlocked (I rarely lock it in the driveway), and immediately a dozen or so conspiracy theories sprang to mind regarding neighborhood kids, bored teenagers, disgruntled neighbors (I didn't know I had any!) and the like all sneaking into the car and popping the hood for sabotalogical purposes, closing but not locking the hood due to the sound it makes. Thoroughly inspecting the engine compartment revealed nothing. After a few days and with great effort, I put it out of my mind. Then one day, after parking, I accidentally banged my foot on the latch release while exiting the car and hear the familiar 'click' of the hood popping. Cue the 'aha!' moment. Unfortunately, the relief of solving the mystery was quickly replaced by concern, as I can see myself doing this quite often. Transmission: This might be all in my head as I have the Sport and so am spared many of the transmission problems plaguing others on this forum, but I don't like the shift points and frequently disagree with the car over what gear I should be in. This is my first automatic transmission in over 18 years. My last 3 cars were manual transmissions, and I only reluctantly bought a car with automatic transmission for logistic reasons due to my fiance's absolute refusal to learn now to drive stick, so this might just be orientation with the new vehicle. Shifter: I don't know what Ford calls it, but the semi-manual shifting, which I've only tried once or twice, didn't really feel organic or natural to me. After thinking about it, I think it has to do with pushing the shifter out away from me to engage vs. pulling it towards me, which would have felt more natural and more like a manual shifter. Under the hood: I don't mind not having hoot struts, but locking down the hood prop before you close the hood is elaborate and can be a challenge. Doors: Door pockets in front doors too small to hold anything useful, like a compact umbrella. The glove box is the only storage area I'm able to store the umbrella.

Certified Pre Owned 2010 Fusion Sport AWD 402A package (BLIS, heated seats, dual comfort zones, etc) 33,000 miles $21,650 Just brought it home yesterday! :D The car was a Ford Motor Company fleet vehicle, so before I owned it was made by Ford, owned by Ford. I qualified for the 1.9% APR so I financed the whole thing. I'm real happy with the car and price, however as I only have 3,000 miles left on the base warranty, I really need to comb through the vehicle to ensure everything works. Lesson learned: My previous car (1999 Passat) had heated seats, but the drivers side was busted. Unfortunately, I didn't bother to check till I needed them (bought car in July), and by then the used car warranty had expired.