Goneracin

Yes he was cited, but for following too close. Not his phone. I hate texting drivers. I might not drain the tank, but the Steeda parts are coming off

Ok, thanks for the tip, its worth getting every bit I can out of this car. I am sure going to miss her.

Yeah, I am glad they totaled it because it would never drive right again. But what a shame, I loved the way that car handled. Now its a tough call between a new fusion or focus st. Are you saying there is an access port under the back seat? that might not be a bad idea

The other night some moron decided it was more important to send a text than to pay attention while driving. My 2011 SE was rear ended at about 40 mph, leaving me in a lot of pain, and the car totaled So much for my special order SE, I loved that car. Anyway, before they pick it up I will be removing some aftermarket parts and putting the stockers back on. I was also going to drain the full tank of fuel. Any advice on the easiest way to do this? Can I just hook up a hose to the engine feed line and pump it out, or am I better off using a siphon pump? Thanks guys, hopefully I will be back in the fusion world again soon, or maybe a focus st.

Ordered one from Ford, $43 shipped to my door. They said it was revised and it had a different part number then the one that was in there. I couldnt see any difference.

I just did rear pads and rotors on my 2011 Fusion SE. There is a slight drag on the drivers side. I greased everything, all moves smoothly, and I did turn the pistons back with the proper tool. Im just wondering if there is something I missed that needs to be reset or something. Thanks

Thanks guys, I will take a closer look at it tonight when I get home.

So its the actual chrome handle itself on the inside? if that's the case its cheaper than the deductible. thanks

My Fusion is a 2011 SE, and i just went to get out of the car and something broke internal to the door. The handle on the outside still works, but the inside one is disconnected. I still have a ford warranty but with $100 deductible. Anyone have any idea what broke or if this is common? if the part is less than $100 I'll just do it myself. Thanks.

I would be interested, what was the cost of those parts? where does it install?

leaky rubber hose connected to the jet under the hood?

yeah, the rolling resistance has been something Im watching. its tough to tell since the winter fuel in this part of the country sucks, and recently I havent been able to get a full tank where there havent been some circumstances that vastly effect fuel econ like pouring rain, snow, defroster (a/c) constantly on... Ill see what I get for a comparison as the weather improves.

well I went with the kumho ecsta pa31 in the stock 225/45/18 size. Total out the door was just under $600. I drove down to NC and back on them, in pouring rain the whole 770 miles back. There was a lot of standing water on the highways, no problems at all there. And this morning was my first try in the snow. Not a lot, maybe an inch on the side roads and a slushy mix on the highways. Either way, no signs of slipping as long as I drove like a reasonable person. So far, a very good tire. Oh, and very smooth and quiet too.

All good points

my tire guy actually just mentioned those. the new pa31, pretty good warranty too...... hmmmm

thats a good point, however Im not sure if I will be keeping this car past 100,000. I was looking to stay around $500 or less out the door. oh yeah, and they are the 225/45/18s

I just hit 67000 miles on my 2011 fusion SE, and the stock goodyear rsa's are about done. I was happy with their performance, but their price is a bit steep. Anyone have any advice or opinions or suggestions? I live in the northeast and the tires need to be all season. the car does see some snow, but when it gets really bad out I take my truck.

Sorry it has been so long to get back on here and post up what I have found. After a lot of e-mails back and forth with steeda, we finally deemed that the mount would work in the 2.5 manual, and i purchased it and installed it. It has now been over a year with the new mount, and it works better than they say. the added vibration is hardly noticeable at all and the wheel hop is gone. not to mention now and no throttle downshifts the car is smooth and chrisp, no bucking or bouncing at all. This is a great cheep awesome mod that i would recommend for everyone

Glad to see this all works, I will be strongly concidering this as an option when the OEM front brakes wear out. thanks for the info guys

Im not sure about that exact exhaust, but as a fellow CT resident i will tell you the emissions program here is a joke. They make me take my 2001 F-250 diesel every 2 years even though it is non catalyst and there is no possible way to fail me. My 96 Mustang GT has a fully built race motor with no cats. when they put it up on the rollers to check underneath raw fuel usually dripps out the pipes. you can clearly tell it is not emissions compliant. however, because i have cat shields welded to the pipes, it looks good enough and since the CEL isnt on, they pass me every time. so my point is that as long as your CEL doesnt come on you are fine. anything 96 and newer is a computer only test, no sniff test. atleast in CT that is

without looking at me car i cant be 100% sure, but i think they are supposed to be the heated seats on the outer 2 switches, then the middle 2 are from left to right TCS and ambient lighting. so correct me if im wrong but i think its (from left to right): Drivers heated seat, TCS off, ambient lighting color, Pass heated seat. hope this helps

looks very nice

so is it safe to asume that any stock dual exhaust from 06 to present would fit on the 2.5 as well?

thanks 10sbmsport, that was kinda where i was going with it. no one lists a mount for the 2.5, so i was wondering if the others would work. i guess i will shoot steeda an email.

I cant think of any valid reason why you wouldnt use OEM Ford Motorcraft parts. the parts your car was designed to run with. if your air conditioner in your house was designed for a certain air filter, but you saved $0.15 to put one in that will supposedly work, wouldnt you be pissed on a hot summer day when the unit freezes up due to insufficient air flow and leaves you with no AC or worse, a hefty repair bill? just my 2 cents