JediBoyTJ

Do you feel anything different while driving, like the ICE engaging more often than expected? I've driven my 2012 MKZ Hybrid for almost 4 years now and just by the feel of the drive, how well I was braking/accelerating, how often I was able to pulse and glide and let it cruise in EV mode, and the amounts of traffic, I can almost perfectly guess what the MPG is going to be when I turn off the car. Whats your drive/commute like? Long trips? Stop and Go traffic? Sometimes my trips are through rush hour city traffic, which will net me as low as 33/34mpg on a 20mi drive, or as high as 45+ if I was able to cruise with minimal stopping and light acceleration (like able to keep it in EV mode up to 15+mph) Have you checked your tire pressure? This may not fully contribute to a 25%+ drop in efficiency, but I've noticed that compared to my past regular cars, my hybrid will drop nearly 4-5mpg if I have an under inflated tire. I recently had a slow leak in one of my tires and before I was able to patch it, I noticed those couple trips I took netted a nearly 3-5mpg less difference, and that was with driving 'lighter' due to the tire issue. Another possibility is maybe your car is going through its battery calibration. I believe this happens once a year, where the car will run the ICE and get the battery up to nearly 100%, and then it will drain. I noticed when this happens, I'll get very low 30s in mpg no matter how I drive. I'm at 55000 miles and I haven't had any type of major service done to the car other than routine maintenance.

The only odd thing is, I dont remember the system ever acting this way previously, and I've had it since 2013. Its only been the last year or so I've noticed the issue. Today it was pretty hot outside here in south Florida, and running the a/c there was only a couple points where I noticed the passenger side being slightly warmer. Otherwise it was working great today. Maybe I'll just accept the fact that its just how it works. I'll probably bring it back in one more time, maybe to a different dealer (or a Ford one), just before the CPO warranty expires in October of this year, just to make sure there isn't another issue.

Thanks for the update. So I just got back from the dealer again. They kept the car for 3 days, and I showed the tech exactly how the duplicate the issue. He contacted the Ford hot line and they responded with saying that an up to 15º difference in the temperature between the driver and passenger side is considered normal, when the Auto a/c is set to 72º and the ambient outside temp is 78º. And also commenting that the Auto Climate Control in the Hybrids are different. I still dont believe this is normal. I've driven many cars with auto climate control and never noticed this issue before. Right now I can make it work better by setting the drivers side to 72º, and the passenger side to 68º and the temperature out of the vents is almost equal. If anyone can think of anything else I can check on my own (or if anyone else thinks this is "normal"), let me know!

I know with my iPhone, I had to go into the bluetooth settings, tap on SYNC, and enable "Show Notifications", then new texts would come through. I'm not sure if it'll be the same thing for an android phone.

Awesome, thanks for the reply again Is the sunload sensor the same sensor in the middle of the dash that controls the auto-headlamps too? I can tell you the auto-headlamps work fine, if that means anything. Do you know the quickest way to disconnect that sensor? Can it be done from the top of the dash itself?

Hi, thanks for the reply! Could you be more specific about what the EMTC is, and how I can maybe test and see if its working properly?

Hi Guys, (sorry about the long post ahead. TLDR at the bottom) I have a 2012 MKZ Hybrid, Auto/Dual Zone Climate Control. I have brought it into my dealer no less than 3 times now for this issue, and it seems like it doesn't fully get resolved. Normally I leave Auto climate on 72º, and haven't had any issues for the 3 years I've had this car, until a few months ago. The issue is the passenger side vents are not quite as cold as the driver side vents. The air is still cold, just not as cold. I have a digital thermometer, and found that on average it is a 5-10º difference. Pointing the thermometer at the back of the vent, the driver side air comes out at around 48º, passenger side about is 55º. A fairly noticeable difference. If I set the AC to manual control at 60º on both sides, all vents are nearly identical until a couple mins later when the passenger side gets slightly warmer again, and it goes through these slight fluctuations. Sometimes its perfect, other times its warmer. The only way I can get the issue is constantly occur, is if I set the Auto climate. - 1st dealer visit (around Dec-Jan 2016), they replaced a blend door. Paid the $100 warranty deductible and left. Seemed good at first for a few weeks, then the issue occurred again. Every once in a while I heard a slight groan/squeak behind the dash when the car turned on (sounded like a door opening, only lasts a second). I assumed the blend door went bad again so I brought it back in. Sometimes this noise would correlate with whether the AC would work properly. If I heard the noise, it typically meant that it would work properly If I didn't, then the AC would be warmer on the right side. - 2nd visit (May 2016), they replaced the A/C Compressor itself, said it was leaking. They also said the blend doors were fine. I was like, alright cool. Issue seemed resolved so I paid the deductible (for the second time) and left. Fast forward some time later, issue has returned. - 3rd visit (September 2016), spoke to the service manager, informed of my issue, and how I really dont want to pay the deductible again since its for the same issue). Luckily he was very nice and said he would take care of it (Typically they said they only cover the deductible if its the same part that failed within a certain time frame after being repaired). This time, they found the evaporator was leaking (I also complained of a slight musky smell the AC had), and said that was causing all my issues. They replaced the evaporator, tested, and said it was good to go. I was like alright, picked up the car and left. Seemed to work good, but the exact issue has returned once again. I have tried putting the AC into its self test mode (hold the power and defrost buttons for 1 sec, then press recirc), it goes into its test and blows the air, but nothing changes (its still slightly warmer on the right side). Does anyone have any ideas? I'm hoping someone has experienced this before and might have a solution I can either fix myself quickly, or go back to my dealer to tell them. TLDR; AC slightly warmer on the passenger side, verified with digital thermometer. Multiple dealer visits and multiple part replacements later, issue still persists. Looking to see if anyone has experienced this before.

So far it only happened once randomly on the last 5mins of my drive, and it was fine the next morning. I'm hoping it was just a random radio wave interference that caused it, like what happens to BLIS every once in a while where it says "sensor blocked" and I just turn the car off and back on.

Yeah I watched it on my 27in iMac, quality is very good! I spliced together a time-lapse video you can see here: I do a lot of road trips to Orlando, so I can't wait to do a time-lapse of that trip. I might need to lower the quality so I can get 3.5 hours of footage recorded, or just try to find a larger mini sd card. Also on a side note, I got a random "tire pressure sensor fault" error while driving the other day. I know someone mentioned this possibility early on in this thread, but I was wondering if there was a possible reason and/or fix for this. I have all the cables tucked behind the bottom door trim piece below the fuse box. Is there maybe some kind of interference going with how i have it kind stuffed in there?

I still haven't turned on those features yet, but my next long drive I definitely will just to see. However my problem is I play music so loud that I probably won't hear the little speaker noises lol Also, I finally got it fully wired! Got the right add a circuit, and tapped into the rain sensor fuse (which my car doesn't have a rain sensor so no worry about any fuses blowing). Thanks for your help everyone!

Yes, This is now the third add-a-circuit i have ordered, as I accidentally ordered a full size one first, then caught the mistake and ordered that mini one. So now I think I got the right one. That one i posted had a drop down in to select which size, and everything I saw showed the Small as the correct one (they just use the same description for each one). I actually don't mind the set up with the power port connection right now, the only annoying thing is having to disconnect it every time I park since its not a switched power port. And I wired it so well that the only part of the cable I even notice is the little amount right next to my floor mat. Looks like with the included 8GB card its able to record ~65mins of the HD video. Most of my normal trips are no longer than that so that should be fine until I decide on getting a 16 or 32GB card down the line. Also the actual unit itself feels pretty sturdy, and not cheap at all. Would never guess this was just a "generic brand" camera (other than the broken english in the user manual lol). Still figuring out everything about this camera, I didn't even know it had lane departure warning system, and some level of a collision alarm too, so I gotta look into that and see how that works.

Alright, everything came in today The issue I ran into was with the add-a-circuit. The one I bought was this one, but it doesn't actually fit because the contacts aren't long enough (all the fuses are recessed in). Searching now, it looks like I actually need one like this since the contacts are longer and will actually fit in. It sucks because I found a good couple places to put it (I was gonna try and use the fog light fuse, since the location of the fuse made the most sense) I still routed the power cable through the headliner over the drivers side, down the a-piller weather stripping. Since I don't have it set up through the fuse box, I just continued to route it through the lower interior door panel, then under the floor mat (its a snapping winter mat, i routed near the top/closest to the seat), up to one of the front seat trim pieces that cover the rail, then up to the power point below the radio (its very secure, so it shouldn't get in the way). This will just be temporary until I get another add-a-circuit. I attached a quick pic of where I put it. I drove it around the block and saw the video, looks perfect to me! I have it on the highest HDR setting, its like 21x9 or something so its extra wide. Do you recommend changing any of those settings?

Thanks for the update Yeah I'm part of all the MKZ forums online too, but I tend to post on here for some of the more general questions due to the higher user base of the fusion. I don't have a multimeter but I can source one if needed or if I run into trouble. I haven't looked down there yet but I'm assuming there's some type of screw I can wrap around for the ground. I was just gonna do trial and error pretty much lol. Worst case is I run it to the power port temporarily. Everything should be here tomorrow so wish me luck!

Got it. I'll probably just leave it off. I ordered everything I need (found it all on amazon so it'll be here monday) Couple more noob questions: - For the add a circuit, do I need to get an extra fuse to put in the second slot? (I don't remember if the one I ordered came with any fuses, but I can just pick one up from the auto parts store) - Also, whats the easiest ground point for the 12v?

Thanks for the update! With the add-a-circuit, do I have to do any modification to the fuse box for it to fit properly? Like will the cover still snap on?