BRoseJr.

Guys, I have a 2007 and a 2012, the issues I was having was with the 2012, sorry for the mix up. Just haven't updated my info under my name. I haven't researched the drain and fill procedure, but would it be possible with ramps? Thanks for the info!

Thanks for the update guys! I am going to attempt to retap mine, as I rarely drive this care anymore, due to the issues with a 2 dollar bolt! I tried everything short of retapping the hole. Edgar, i broke about 10 or so as well, very frustrating to the point my wife did not feel safe driving the car any longer. Very poor design by Ford, but told it wouldnt be a recall, because it wasn't a safety issue. Well, try driving down the road at 60mph and the bolt breaking, causing serpentine belt to fly off, and have no power steering! Any further updates??

Guys, I recently got CEL and wrench light with very erratic transmission behavior. Transmission has always been pretty sloppy, as the 6F35's are, but gotten worse over preceeding week. Car would buck when shifting from reverse to park and at times shudder very hard on downshift if you had to stop quickly. Checked the codes to find P0713 which is transmission fluid temperature sensor high input. CEL/Wrench lights would come and go for next few days when driving around neighborhood. Wrench light would also come and go whole parked, if I started and stopped the AC (which seeming odd to me). While inspecting car, I did find engine coolant level barely showing in overflow reservoir. Once filling coolant to correct level and disconnecting battery (cleaned heavy corrosion from + terminal), all seems to be well. Trans is shifting better than it has in years. I understand there is a trans cooler in the radiator, so I am theorizing that transmission wasnt getting enough coolant, due to level??? Also, there was never a change in the Engine temp gauge or any other codes. Do you guys think the coolant level could have been the culprit to cause the CEL/Wrench light and the code?? Thanks for the help!

Well Ford Engineer stated that once the bolt sheers off the likely hood of another occurrence is probable. Looks like the threads are being damaged when this occurs and it will continue to occur if the only thing you do is replace the bolt/pulley. My question is: why does the 2 dollar bolt fail in the first place and it is happening to alot of people now.

Guys, any updates if your fixes worked. I am going to attempt to either retap or drill to bigger size hole as clayoneal stated. I was thinking about just having the Ford dealer put on a new timing belt cover to be done with it

I still do not have this issue resolved. Any new information out there? I have heard of possible re-tapping or recasting area that bolt threads into?

I have had this happen more times than I count on both my hands with 07 Fusion. Ford needs to realize there is a problem here. Same as Jr above, when pulley bolt breaks, you have no power steering and when your wife is driving at 65mph and sudden loss of power steering occurs, it was a nightmare for her. Explaining the issue to FORD over the phone with lady who didnt even know how to spell Idler Pulley (true story), was fun to say the least. FORD says there hasn't been a recall for this part, since it isnt a safety issue, I beg to differ. Anyhow, I have tried just about any way possible to fix this, other than recasting the part of the block this bolt threads into. I have owned nothing but FORDS in my life, but starting to wonder what they are coming to. If anyone wants specific info on what I have done, send me a message. Or if anyone has a potential fix, I would love to hear it. Thanks for your time!

Chalybs, when you say you got the "front cover" where the pulley threads into, replaced; what exactly do you mean? On my 2007 Fusion is threads into an "ear" off the cast of the block. Did you have the threads re-tapped?

Steve, did you ever resolve the issue? Mine is making the same exact noise with same exact symptoms, except my idler pulley bolt has snapped. Any help is appreciated

I will take pictures and post once I get home from work Bolt is currently bent, but (as hard as it seems to believe) in the past when the bolt is bent all I had to do was move pulley to completely break (this is even after driving home 20 miles with it bent!). I ran the defrost/heat this morning only when at cruising speed, at lights if running you can feel pretty good vibration. A few months back I recharged compressor due to constant cycling. Cycling of compressor went away, along with heavy vibration, but can feel vibration now even when turning on while in drive. I have yet to check tensioner while running but will this weekend. Beyond frustrated with this problem lol. THANKS for listening and helping out, it is appreciated!

FB, I am having same issues as you state, but I have had idler pulley bolt snap because of this. Did you ever find the cause and remedy of the problem?

Well, started the car this morning and yet again, pulley bolt extremely bent and belt half way off power steering pump. Just about at my wits end with this problem. Never had any other problems except THIS one, just so happens it has always reared its ugly head. Not sure what would cause that much force to bend/break this bolt repeatedly. I will take pics and try to post later. Also what is the roll restrictor you stated above?

Thanks FF! All parts I have replaced have been Motorcraft. I have even tried an upgraded bolt with no luck. Everything looked to be lined up the last time I replaced idler pulley a few weeks ago. Upon cold start it seems as if the power steering pump/pulley is making a loud whining noise which quiets after a while. Possibly power steering pump/pulley putting the extra load which is causing the idler bolt to fail??? RPMS will also dip to around 500 when placed in D or R with a pretty good vibration too. Not noticable when accelerating or driving, more noticable at stop lights. For the belt tensioner, I guess easiet way is to see through wheel well? Thanks for any help!

Sorry so Long, any help is GREATLY appreciated. Idler pulley bolt has broken atleast 7 times in last 2 years. Before the first time (65k) I would hear the squealing noise upon startup in the mornings, but would go away. Not very long after that pulley bolt broke while driving. After that it would happen every 5-8k and I would know to replace when I would start hearing squealing noise and idler pulley would be tilted in towards engine and bolt would be bent. I have replaced belt tensioner and belt with no luck at all. Last 2 times this has happened it only lasted for about 2 weeks. Starting to believe it is compressor clutch, when AC/defroster is on you can feel car vibrate while idling in drive or at stop light. No vibration when in park or neutral. Do you guys think the AC compressor could be faulty and causing the extra load on the idler pulley, resulting in bolt breaking? Also have contacted FORD with no luck at all, but they stated there was a TSB. Anyone else have similar issues? Thanks in advance for any info!!!

Well, it broke once again I believe it has to be the AC compressor or power steering pulley putting more drag as you said. AC will work well some times and others not so good and issue has never happened in the fall/winter when I'm not using AC. Also when turning steering wheel after start up it will squeal loudly, as if more drag is on the power steering pump. I will check AC and power steering pump. Thanks MC

Guys, I have had this happen 2 more times since then. Not sure what is causing the bolt to break/shear but it seems to happen aboue every 10-15k now. I have replaced pulley with motorcraft replacement still with no luck. Kinda scary when pulley comes flying off at 65mph and you have no power steering I have contacted Ford with no avail. I too am seriously reconsidering having another Ford after 15 yrs with nothing but Ford vehicles. Customer service Lady I spoke with had very poor English and had no clue what Idler Pulley was, I even had to spell it for her. Anyone had any luck with complaints or even repairs?

Guys, I am having re-occuring issues with the idler pulley. At about 65000 miles, pulley bolt was severely bent down and sheered 3/4 of the way, causing serpentine belt to fly off. At that time pulley was replaced. Same issue about 10k miles later. Again pulley was replaced,but not serpentine belt (wish I would have). Today about 3k miles later, belt has slipped off half way (breaking apart, as well) and idler pulley looks to be bent again, Any help is greatly appreciated. I am think maybe the belt is worn and slipping, but not sure why the pully bolt is breaking/bending.