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tim_ballz

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  1. Dry out your car as well as you can. pull out the carpet. Drop the seats down and have a friend w a water hose spray the back of the car while you lay on the inside w the trunk closed. You should b able to follow where the water is coming in. Check the trunk seal, i have replaced many trunk seals on the gen 1 Fusions. Good luck
  2. Yeah their covered, ive replaced a couple of them.
  3. Allright so it was a little slow the other day at work so i finnally made a repair order about this. I contacted Ford's "Hotline" they told me that as long as the shifter cable is properly aligned. This is a "normal characteristic" about our cars and "their are no know complaints about the shifter being sluggish or sticking up or down. So basically they told me that they dont care about the problem. It doesnt really bother me enough to go crazy and try different greases. Im just going to live w it for now. Let me know how it goes when you bring your car in
  4. Yeah i could never drive an auto, its too boring. Besides Ford's auto trans are notorious for shifting terribly smoking fluid and destroying valve bodies. I have rebuilt too many transmissions . Their was no way i was going to deal w it on my own car.
  5. Hey Whats Going On?? I am also from the NW corner of CT. I Have a 2011 Fusion W/ the stick. The last couple of days have been brutal w the cold weather. I have noticed that my shifter is kind of difficult to operate, w/ the same symptoms that you are talking about. I am a career mechanic for Ford and i was looking into a solution to this as well. I took it apart quickly and noticed that their is plenty of grease (on mine) in the linkage area. Short of purchasing a special "cold weather" grease im not shure what to do. Does any one else have any ideas??
  6. I hope it works, i just ordered one. I'll get back to you in a couple weeks when i get a chance to try it out
  7. Yes, i realize that thank you
  8. Hey has anyone tried the Steeda short shifter kit designed for the '06-09 Fusion on the '10-11?? Everything looks the same from inside the car
  9. Na, their is no was of adjusting the pedal, its a closed system.
  10. Take the throttle body off and hose it down with throttle body cleaner or carb clean. Note dont hit the o-ring on the back of the throttle body w the cleaners or you may create a vaccume leak when u reassemble it, If your going to use a turkey baster to remove all you p/s fluid, I would go get a gal jug (about $20 at my dealership) suck as much fluid out as poss, top off the fluid and allow the car to run for 5 min w the steering wheel turned all the way to one side. And repeat this with the whole gal. It'll take awhile but it will prob save u 80-100 at the dealership.
  11. Did you checky your air filter and not secure it properly?? Btw dont use a Fram oil filter their garbage, use a factory or a Wix
  12. I'd be surprised if it will work bc you need the data off the old module to program the new module. Let me know how you make out.
  13. The rcm is located just to the right where the drivers feet would be. Remove the trim pannel and it should be right there. One prob you have is that the dealership will have to program the module starting with the old one still installed then they will have to install the new one.
  14. The upper engine mount is verry common on the 2.3l. Check it for play with a pry bar
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