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Ruggybuggy

Fusion Member
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Everything posted by Ruggybuggy

  1. Lazy? Why take off the bumper if you don't have too. The slim balasts sit perfect on top of the headlight housings. I can take a picture if you like.
  2. Put the ballast on top of the headlight housing. If you get the slim ballast there is room on the top of the housing and it won't interfere with the hood closing. Use two sided tape or a dab of silicone to hold them in place. Easier then removing the bumper.
  3. SE Fusions don't have auto headlight and SEL do so the cost difference between the two is quite a bit. Check out my post of how to add auto headlight to an SE. Takes about a hour and about a $70 investment.
  4. Had the same problem, one headlight failed to come on on my HID fog lights. I figured it was the ballast. I installed a HID harness kit that uses a relay and supplies direct battery voltage to the ballast and now it works fine. The ballast need a good source of voltage on start up and the stock headlight wiring is not up to the task. The harness cost me $8 bucks with free shipping off Ebay.
  5. Finished installing the light sensor and the programming is present to allow the sensor to function. Remove the defroster bezel from the top of the dash. When you look at the bottom of the bezel you will notice the spot were the sensor would sit. I used a dremel tool to cut out the spot for the sensor. The connector I used was an extra four wire pigtail that was extra from my car started. Pushed in nice a tight. The sensor has four terminals but you only use two. The other terminals are used for dual heat/AC inputs for the auto HVAC. There is an opening in the defroster that allows you to feed the wires down to the SJB. Go to connector 52 then pin #46. This will be a empty cavity. Your going to have to find the correct female pigtail. Starting in 2010 ford when to a very small female terminal and the only place I could find one was from the SJB of a wrecked 2010 F150 at the local graveyard. My local deal didn't have anything. Finish by grounding the remaining wire from the light sensor. Works perfect. I did take some pictures but the quality is bad. I'll take some better pictures and post. I think the moderator of the forum should make this a sticky. When I bought my SE I was disappointed that it didn't have the auto feature. I searched the forum and was told it was impossible to do and that it wasn't worth the effort. You would have to run new wires and pull the dash apart to install the light sensor and it just wasn't worth it. This cost me around $70 dollars and about 1 hour of my time. The hardest part was finding a connector for the light sensor and a small female terminal to install into the SJB. I'll take better pictures and post some diagrams of the connector configurations. Alldata has some good connector view diagrams.
  6. Any time you have a missfire because of water contmination you have to replace the rubber boot and spring that goes from the coil to the plug. Make sure you have gapped the new plugs to spec.
  7. I managed to get the headlight switch installed. Works like a charm. I've ordered the sunload sensor ($23) but it won't be intill next week.
  8. Yes. I haven't got around to putting in the switch yet (Arctic Cat repair) but I have confirmed it by testing. When I get a chance I'll write a full review.
  9. I have a 2010 Fusion SE and it doesn't have the auto headlights which I really miss from my previous vehicle. I did a search on the forum and many stated that it wasn't worth the trouble because the SJB would not be programed, the wiring harness was missing and you would have to install a sun load sensor. I decided to pull out the wiring diagrams and compare the difference between the SE and SEL which has the auto headlight feature. The auto headlights use a violet/white white that is an input to the SJB that runs from the headlight switch.which is present in the SE. The headlight switch is a ground controlled switch. By jumping the wire to ground I was able to verify that the SJB could activate the auto feature. With the headlight switch unplugged and grounding the wire the light come on then after the ignition is turned off the headlight will go out after about 15 seconds (the headlight time delay feature). If you order a headlight switch for an SEL with the auto feature you will have auto headlights. To control the headlights for night/day operation you with have to install a sun load sensor. Unfortunately the sun load sensor harness is not present on the SE but it would be had to install. Buy a sun load sensor ( $30). It has four terminals. Two are used for the auto headlights (sense wire and ground) and the other two are used for the dual AC climate control which your not going to use. Basically you have to run one wire from the sensor down to the SJB which is going to run into the 52 pin connector on pin #46. The other wire from the sun load sensor will go to a good ground. The sun load senor is located in the defroster panel trim. You can carefully remove this and there is an outline on it showing you the location of where to cut to install the sensor. I've ordered my headlight switch form the local Ford dealer ($50) and have order the sun load sensor online ($30). When everything is installed I'll take pictures and explain the procedure. You could just install the auto headlight switch and in the auto position the headlights and tail lights would come on and stay on anytime the key is in the on position and this might be desirable for anyone wanting daytime running lights.
  10. Making this way more complicated then it has to be. Just install a headlight switch meant to use on a auto light Fusion and add a sunload sensor if you decide you what the lights off during the day.
  11. How are you wiring your control side of the relay? You have to remember that the light switch is an input to the BCM and is not turning the headlights on or off.
  12. Do you remenber the manufacture or part number? Looks as they are sitting on top of the headlight. How about a closeup?
  13. Same situation here. I just bought 4 tire sensors off Ebay and installed them. TPMS system work perfect with summer or winter rims. No need to relearn.
  14. I'm going to custom bend a dual system. I don't want it loud, the quieter the better. Just wanting the dual exhuast look.
  15. Tell you what. I'm going to install dual exhaust on mine and I'll sell you the chrome tips or the entire muffler if you want it.
  16. It's under warranty, take it in and see what they have to say. While your there listen to another Fusion and see if it sounds the same.
  17. Do you plan on replacing the mirror yourself? Many shops will charge extra for labor if you bring in your own part to have them put it on. Something to keep in mind.
  18. Any Fusion with the alloy wheels is not affected by the recall but if your using a 16" steel wheel I would have the rotors checked to insure that they are within spec. From what I get from this is the alloy wheel is able to adapt to the irregular rotor surface but the steel wheel can't. The loose steel wheel results in stud damage. Pretty sure it has nothing to do with over torquing at the factory.
  19. Your Canadian Fusion will calculate based on US gallons. I have the same Canadian Fusion. The best mileage I've received has been 41 miles/gallon. This was done in Florida on a flat straight road and no wind doing just under 60mph. I usually see about 35 at around 70mph. Not sure if this has anything to do with it but I just had the PCM flash to address a TSB for improved shift quality. My shifts are very much improved.
  20. That probably is correct. What I thought strange was that the service writer said that when I put me steel wheels back on to take it back in to my local dealer for inspection. I'm currently in Florida on vacation and came down with my summer rims and tires on. Wonder how they will react to the aftermarket rotors?
  21. I just came from the dealer to have a TSB done for the AC freeze up and transmission shift quality. While I was there the service manage informed me that there was a TSB for wheel stud inspection that just came in today (Dec 22) and they would like to do the inspection on my vehicle. Because I knew of this before hand because of this forum I thought it was a stud replacement. He explain to me that there was a problem with with the rotors and steel wheel and that over a period of time the the lug nuts could back off and the loose wheel assembly could cause stud damage. The inspection involved removing the wheels and inspecting the studs for damage then check the rotors for flatness were the steel wheel contacts. If you never had a loose wheel your studs will be fine. If they find the rotors out of spec or the studs damaged they replace them. When I when in they inspected the studs and found no damage so nothing was done. I run aftermarket performance rotors and aftermarket rims so nothing else needed to be done. What I get from all this is Ford's rotor supplier provided them with a bad batch of rotors which is causing the wheels to come loose. There is nothing wrong with the quality or strength of the studs.
  22. Love this, he gets ripped off by the dealer and the car is a piece of sh!t. Bad alignment and tires will cause pulls. I have the same car and mine pulled to the left when I bought it. I'm a tech by trade so I checked the alignment and found the rear toe was out which caused the thrust angle to be out causing the pull. Have someone diagnose it properly and your steering issues can be solved. You never did explain what happened to the AC.
  23. Just a word of warning, have you ever done a remote start before? Do you know how to bypass the PATS system? Do it wrong and you might be calling a tow truck to bring it down to the Ford dealer to get it out of theft mode.
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