TimtheRockstar

Pics help, but some folks gather info from reading, and often time, everyone relies on a picture to tell a thousand words. And it just does not explain some things. So let me type up the steps it took me to complete this in 45 min. I had to read multiple threads to find all the information, as it seems that the internet is littered with how-to's that can't explain much or don't give many details. So just to be complete on this thread, (as I am posting no place else since FFFourm always seems to answer my questions) I will give a concise step by step. The 31 Step Method to Remove and Re-Install the Backup Warning/Cross Traffic Speaker Required Tools: 10mm socket, 8mm socket (1/4”) Small flat screwdriver or straight pick Required Parts: Speaker as called for this fix Steps: 1) Move Both Front seats all the way forward, to give you working room 2) Remove Back Seat, feel for two hidden clips, basically in-between your legs, between the carpet and seat. Lever pushes to the PASS Side, front of seat comes up. 3) Back of seat has two clips, Push seat backward (with knees if squatting in the floorboard) run hand between seat back and bottom curl hand, like curling around a pipe, pull upward. It should release from the U Shape Clips. 4) Remove seat from Car so it is out of the way. 5) Remove 10mm bolt from bottom of Rear, Driver Side, Bolster Pad, it is at the bottom of the pad, the plastic is black, the bolt is black. 6) Using your hands, push finger into area between bolster and door seal, while pulling bolster toward the passenger side. There is enough flex, you can get the tabs out, and the bottom will be free. 7) From this point, the Bolster moves enough that you can see the hidden clip at the top of the bolster. The clip is black, it is above a white plastic plug that the bolster slips into. 8) Push hidden clip toward the driver side of the car, the bolster will come out. 9) Remove bolster, set aside 10) Using a pick or tiny screwdriver, locate the quarter size circle in the plastic facia piece on the C Pillar, pry open the plug from the TOP (critical, as you cant see the evidence if you blemish the plastic on the top), then pull plug out to expose the hole 11) Use an 8mm socket, with an extension and remove the bolt 12) Remove the Plastic Fascia. I man handled it so I could see inside, pushed the front holder (inside square plastic part, with a WHITE round tab in it) that slipped the facia down, and off the white tab. 13) At this point you should be able to see the rear white tab connected to the facia. I just man-handled this out of the hole it was in. 14) remove the white keeper part if it stayed on the car, slide back where it belongs in the facia piece 15) Raise seat-belt where it goes into the deck board cover, notice the slot in the deck cover material 16) Slide seat-belt through slot, let rest behind deck lid material 17) Open the truck 18) Remove trunk fabric cover material that covers the back of the rear seat, usually 4 black pull/push tabs (they can be reused a few times). Best way to do this is slide hand (fingers) or hands between the fabric and metal, pull or push down (depending on how you are in the trunk). SAVE the black plastic tabs as, like I said, the can be reused. 19) Lay in trunk and locate the drivers side rear speaker (I did this laying on my back) 20) Pull the Drivers Side fabric (hooked to the fender) down where is is close to the speaker. 21) You will see two Flair Keepers on the flat underside of the metal deck. There are two flair push keepers, and a single nipple between them. 22) With a small screwdriver, or pick, push the center ridged part that is inside of the plastic flair, up 23) Push both flair plugs through the hole (I did this and did not lose the parts as they stayed on the speaker 24) Locate the WHITE plastic nipple a few inches toward the rear of the car from the 3 holes the speaker was in, it is on the metal underside of the metal deck. 25) Push this white plastic push keeper (similar to the black ones that held the fabric up to the deck) back into the hole (this frees the keeper that is taped to the wire), [i just took dykes and snipped the nipple off] 26) Return to the Back Seat 27) With left hand, pull up deck fabric material, slide right hand under fabric, about up to the wrist, you will feel the loose speaker. 28) Pull the speaker, and wire out where you can un-plug the speaker. By removing the white keeper that the wire is attached to, you can get it out in the open 29) Using a pick or small screwdriver, push the keep tab to un-plug the old speaker 30) plug in the new speaker 31) Reverse this process ---------------------------------- At this point, I personally said, there is no need to have that speaker buried that far down. And since there is enough wire now loose, I just shoved it behind the rubber drain pipe that comes down the C Pillar. So if it fails again, I can just remove the top plastic fascia. I personally don't think (read the word care) it will rattle at all, as it is tight behind the rubber hose. I left the push tabs in the speaker, just pushed the pins back in so they would not fall out. Done and Done. Thanks to all for the smallest tidbit of information that really is the ONE TROUBLESHOOTING thing that you should apply to a failed system: ------- If both systems are failing, and you heard the scratchy sound before it totally failed, then it is going to be the speaker.

It was a new battery, thus, it was surly NOT sold without warranty....

Yes....thought I mentioned that.... I asked him, he said, that's no number I heard of....and anyway we dont normally do a TSB unless the customer asks for it, or there is a specific reason to do it. To which I said "well this is the SPECIFIC reason" It was done by the previous owner, in Feb 2010, before I bought it.... Think I bought it in Feb 11, with 16k miles on it...

Side note, I CHANGED THE BATTERY. Just bought it at the parts counter, because I can't wait all day to have them do it.... I did this last time the Battery Died, without issue, but I did not have a major system malfunction at/around the time the battery went bad....just dash anomalies. Car built 5/2009. 1st battery dies 10/2013, Parts refuses to honor ANY warranty on the Motorcraft Battery. "Can't verify when the battery was sold" Well for sure it is only as old as 5/2009 I buy a second battery. 2/23/2015 Second battery is diagnosed as bad. Service cannot find my invoice, as all over the counter sales are listed as 'cash customer'. I buy new battery, again. You know the issues from above. Old battery has 08/13 on a sticker on the side of the battery, so I AM DAMN SURE IT WAS SOLD AFTER 08/13. So I am going to take that up with the General Manager, as I have had it with the Parts Department. .... Last time I ripped them on parts, they quoted me MORE for a line item wheel bearing, than I had paid 3 days prior (I could not get it in right, so paid them to). He said, well sometimes there are price differences and you have to pay more when you buy it.... I said "I paid less across the counter, than you charged me when you performed the work. I have now paid for 2 bearings, one was $30 higher because you didn't know ** I ** knew the price because I just bought it 3 days ago... (I should have never attempted to put a front wheel bearing in.....since they only charged me a total of like $148 to do it.....) End of the rant... I just want the car back, as it has been flawless outside of 2 batteries, and 2 wheel bearings (one of which I ran into a curb) the other is the known FF front wheel bearing that they didn't tighten tight enough at the factory. Thanks for listening.....Love my 92,000 mile Fusion Hybrid.

I got it there around 10am (I had an am appt), Have not heard anything yet at 5:19pm. They have a habit of calling at 5:45 before they close, as if anyone could get there in 15min. Service Writer said, "Check the Brake System for Codes" $89 bucks, or then "Check the other system for Codes" $129, if Brake system nets nothing, then I only pay the $129. I was thinking that I might need to just have it reset after the battery was installed (I bought from Ford and dropped in). The TSB was done, after much shagrin of me saying, just run the number to make sure it was done. It was....even though he had never heard of that type of number (figures). Ford Service (Crystal), I will PM you.

So this happened to me today after leaving the car at the bar over night (in 30degree weather). Get the dreaded ding, ding, ding. Check Brake System. 2 days ago, I could not turn on the Seat Heaters, and thought that was odd. After this, I assume, yet again, the 12V battery was weak (after the cold night) and that was causing spooky problems (since the last battery caused numeorus ghosts in the machine until it just flat died) So I had the battery tested at AutoZone, and they indicated it was a bad battery. Second battery in 92,000 miles, no other issues with the FFH. Head to my local Ford in Austin, Tx, get a battery. Install it, still have same problem. Turn key in run mode, or Start and leave in run mode.Check Brake System Flashes Engine light blinks 8 times after ~15 seconds Brakes operate as described above (mind you, I get it is strickly on non-electical mode, and only on hydraulic, but get you just have to put some guts into it and it will still stop, better than my 64 Chevy Pickup) No DTC's on my ELM327 So my options now are to blow off getting paid tomorrow and sit at the dealer most of the day.... Anything I should be aware of? First off I am going to ask them about "Customer Satisfaction Program 10B13 or TSB number 09-22-11 for vehicles built before October 17, 2009" As mine was built 05/09.

41k of fillups tracked on fuelly... after a wheel bearing replaced, mine has dropped from 33avg to 25.... WTF? ..reason I am searching for what might be happening... Guess it will just have to go to ford.

I use Amsoil 5w-20 that has the 25,000 mile/12 month gaurentee, mind you I drive more than 25k a year. Before that, Royal Purple 5w-20, changed at 16,000 miles. Stuff looked new (well like regular oil, RP is Purple out of the can.) Amsoil looks like ice tea.

I tried, got it installed, and failed. Was worse than before.... 360 bucks later, ford had it done... ...of course, that didnt include the 40 for the bearing and the 80 for the spindle hub I bought.... ...I've probably done 10 wheel bearings in my life....they ain't hard.... but this was a nightmare. 57k on the car. Axle rusted on to spindle.....just a nightmare.

Two weeks ago I had to take my to ford. It started with a simple quite squeak when it was cold (in the morning backing out of driveway, and then going forward) I let it go probably a month. Then it turned into a grinding....I knew it was a wheel bearing. Drivers front. Read online, this is a known issue, it happens 50-70k. ---- If you are still reading just take it to Ford to get them to fix it. 362 bucks out the door. Don't let them tell you the parts are $200 for the bearing and $200 for the spindle. Call and get prices on the Wheel Bearing and the Spindle/Hub beforehand. Both should be around the $80 mark. (bearking was 74 and Spindle 86) from memory. Side note, this is a design flaw with for sure the Fusion. There is a single nut that holds the hub on. That had backed off maybe 1/4 turn, or 1 and 1/4 turns on mine. There is no cotter key, or retainer, they just tap and bend the end flare of the nut into a groove in the axel. ---- Don't do like me. I am a wrench turner and can do it...so I tired. Tried being key. It aint easy to do any of it. The two lower control arms were bears to get out....that was after I destroyed 2 hub pullers trying to get the spindle out. Course that destroyed the bearing. Shaft was rusted on to the spindle. MIND YOU I HAVE 57K on the car. (2010) Once that was pulled, it is a bear to even press in the bearing....even if you have a press. The Half Shaft is not long enought to slip it together enough to use the bolt to press it all together. In the end, I did it, got it back together and it was grinding more than when I started. ....so just let ford do it. ---- If you got this far, then trust me, just don't try it....I am not amature. My shop has a 9,000 lift (just a private man cave), 20k lbs standing shop press...I can do anything...but after the first $80 spindle, and a $40 bearing (from autozone), 6 hrs the first day, and then another 4 to get it together, all for failure....just pay someone. ----- If you must know, there was no easy way to get any of it apart. Bearing was a bear, even with another bearing rease I had laying around. Hardest part was re-assembly, axle to...well all of it. I spent ove ran hour with a bottle jack and chain, trying to get the lower control arms in those holes! The bolts are not long enough to just fit and then put on the nut. FML FORD. So I had to run a chain over the top of it, and under the ball jack, hold it all up there and "suck" it into the hole..... The entire design is total junk. ----- Only problem after Ford fixed it, my MPG has gone from +41000 miles tracked, every fuel up, 33mpg average, to 28.8 on the last tank, and now ~25.... Also Advance Track when I accelerate. ...it has a 60k drivetrain warranty? so I am taking it in next week. ------ Moral of the Story: JUST PAY FORD TO DO IT.....(even with the issues they seemed to cause)

Just to Follow up: The Belkin iPhone Holder is a Belkin TuneBase Direct,Car Charger for iPhone 4,3G,iPod http://www.ebay.com/itm/Belkin-Car-Holder-Charger-Hansfree-Player-iPhone-3Gs-3G-/370500211181?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item56438891ed It works with up to the iPhone4 (my phone) but some featurs dont work, but i use blue tooth, and it is really a charging stand, that can be used with most cases. ---on that note, I had to take the spring arm, with the wire in it, and used a dremel to cut the springs apart, then a bolt cutter to remove each loop, one by one. Tedious, but there was no way to cut the wires and re-solder, as they are so fricking small. This way I got the holder, without the bungee arm, and I took the cig lighter plug apart, and stuck all that int he plastic box you saw in the photos. Wired into the +/- where the lighter was soldered, and get a wire in mount. Screwed that to my mounting plate, which was a pro fit, from my f250, that I hacked the clips off of so it was just a rigid plastic piece. The aluminum bar stock http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware/h_d1/N-5yc1vZarnk/R-202183523/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Interior Screws Similar to this, so you get the idea, but need to be longer. Just needs an integrated washer head that is large, and thread for plastic. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-8-pcs-M6-3-1-81-x-16-mm-Import-License-Plate-Hardware-Kit/_/N-25jg?counter=8&itemIdentifier=494812_0_0_ These would work too, but I like the ones that have the large head and not a washer. They are more rigid. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-AutoGrade-12-pcs-No-8-and-10-black-trim-screw-assortment/_/N-25ag?itemIdentifier=493528&_requestid=1167941 Satin Black http://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-Indoor-Outdoor-Spray-Paint-Satin-Black/17211045 Vice This vice has smooth jaws, more narrow than I like, but will work. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-inch-table-swivel-vise-97160.html Now stop reading on the Internet and go build something, and mount something to it.

I saw a Black on Black, all black leather, and it looked very boring. My SuperDuty FX4 had black and was awesome with the light thread, but it had silver door parts and such. The Fusion looked cheap and just to plain. My black Fusion has the Tan, which really sets off the interior...but of course shows dirt much easier. Just my input.

Honest truth, these days, thief's dont care about dectors, since most are cheap junk anyway. The GPS is an easier target and is stolen more, since they bring an easy 50 bucks (detectors dont in all cases but the V1), and you can always see the GPS suction cup from the front side, and usually the square profile of the gps from the back. So they are easy pickin's. I had a sh1tbag break the window in my SuperDuty because of the GPS, since the V1 was there for 2 years, and after leaving my GPS up for 3 days after a trip, it got popped. The sh`tbag didnt even see the V1 (which was worth more than anything he stole. He also missed a Para P16-40 Limited between the seat and console in a Milt Sparks. That was mainly due to the angle of his view, since he popped the drivers glass, and stood on the running board, so as not to open the door, and set off the factory alarm. He rifliled through the center console looking for shit and stole a Streamlight, because it had a red LED on the charging mount. Stole the GPS and Suction cup mount, but could not get the power wire, and FM Traffic trasmitter thing out of the dash fascia. So the GPS would be worthless (and it had hacked maps on it, I was testing, and it was actually broken, and would crash). The streamlight he left the charger, and that cost 75 bucks, so everything he stole was useless and worthless at any pawn shop. The window replacement cost me 300 bucks after tinting both sides to match, and to fix the bend on the door frame, it was another 800 after my $250 deductible.

Not sure why you would buy anything, since you can just strip the phone wire, use the two center wires, red/green, and strip them long, plug them in the far right/left (one top other bottom) holes. Meaning stick the bare wires in the plug holes after you use a meter to find the 12v key on positive. Bend them back on the plug, hold with thumb and finger, then plug in. Works perfectly, but note it turns it on with key, blinks the power when going from Park to Reverse, to Drive, but in Drive it is on. No plugs, no cost, no bs. Also on the V1, you dont need the dongle that converts the phone wire to two bare wires, it is 12v. Also, as I did by misake, if you swap Positive for Negative, it is not an issue, the V1 will just not work, and you wont blow anything up. Just swap the wires, and it will light up. I have done this strip wire method on 8-10 vehicles, all real new, with no issues...besides many blink the power when you go into reverse. My assumption is that they want to kill the auto dim feature when in reverse, no matter light conditions. Could be the video power on some Video screen mirrors, but I have this happen on ones that just have the simple auto dim and nothing else. Ford, Chevy, Lexus, Toyota, Buick, Pontiac, Vette's, all work just fine. Like I said on the fusion, it is the top wire and bottom wire, on the opposite sides of the plug. not sure which left or right, but get your multi meter, or dmm and find it.

Here is a slideshow of the mount made from 2" bar stock aluminum. Not sure the thickness, but it is not the skinniest you can buy, bout mid thickness from Depot or Lowes. There are 73 photos total. The first mount I built, then the extended mount, as the phone was too far behind the steering wheel. Now the phone when in the mount obscures the Driver's temp, but you can see it if you tilt your head ever so slightly. Supplies Needed: 2" Aluminum Bar Stock, Flat, (can't remember thickness, but they have two sizes, get thicker) [Home Depot/Lowes - $15 for 10ft] Cell Phone/GPS/Device Mount/Dock/Plug/Holder, what ever the hell you want to mount on the dash Plastic "cutting board" type you can roll up [Walmart - $4] Large Washer head type interior panel screws, no longer than 1.5" [Auto Parts Store - $2] See photo Scotch pad, green [Walmart - $3] Steel wool, fine [Depot/Lows - $3] Door/Window Stick down Seal, foam [Depot/Lowes - $3] Krylon Satin Black (or Semi-Flat is the same) [Depot/Lowes/Walmart - $3] (Rustolyum takes much longer to dry) 2x4 board, 4-6 inches long, used as a hammering block Blue painters tape Tools needed (in somewhat order of use): 7mm socket Plastic Dash/Panel remover (Look at Harbor Freight) Scissors Razor Knife Sharpe Marker Hammer Drill Bits (size depends on the holes you need to drill) Vice, big enough to hold aluminum stock, with smooth jaws Hacksaw Diagonal Pliers Multi Meter (to test for voltage if wiring in the device) How to, Step by Step as seen in Photos: ● Remove Dash Gauge Bezel by removing two 7mm screws, then using panel removal tool, pop two clips at the bottom of the trim piece. ● You will need to remove the plug (air sensor) on the right hand side, and the wire is short, but you can un-clip it on each side with fingers ● Cut, flexible cutting board into same size as Aluminum stock ● Use flexible cutting board on dash as a template to find 'fold' that produces proper angle for bend so device lays flat with dash ● Transfer cutting board with mocked up fold to aluminum stock, mark end (at gauges), mark fold. Align marks on fold as photo shows ● Attach fold marks and draw straight line for the fold mark, give yourself 'extra' length past the fold, so the aluminum can be fitted, then marked to trim ● Place aluminum stock into vice (if does not have smooth jaws, it is possible to remove jaws and flip to get a flat surface) ● Using the 2x4 Block, place block over the aluminum, and hammer on the block, to bend the aluminum, at the fold mark, aligned in the vice. DO NOT Bend a full 90 degrees (right angle). Test fit and bend more if needed, but you cannot bend aluminum "back" as it will crack. It is a one time deal, if you fail at this, cut another piece and try again. ● The 2x4 Block eliminates the hammer marks on the aluminum, and keeps the raw product looking good ● Test fit the template with the now bent aluminum to verify fit ● Clean up cuts with Fine tooth file, remove any and all burrs, clean up with scotch pad or steel wool ● Drill mounting holes, making sure these holes are behind the gauge bezel to hide screws ● Clean burrs from holes by hand with much larger drill bit (camphor) then clean with scotch pad or steel wool ● Clean entire mount with scotch brite pad, finish with fine steel wool (you will need to do this again before paint, but I do it a few times along the way) (notice on the photos, the back side which was un-touched, and the front side which looks very clean. ● Test fit in car as pictured, use blue painters tape to cover the dash so as not to scratch it with any edges, not pictured (since I already did it once before and knew my angles) ● Test fit any mounting systems that will need to be screwed to this aluminum; pictured ● Use Sharpe marker to mark alignment of mount, so as to fit/match best in the car ● Place back in vice, cut edges as marked/needed, file as needed, clean up as needed with scotch pad/steel wool ● Use scotch pad and steel wool to 'round' cut edge, similar to the sides of the aluminum stock ● Drill holes for device mount ● Modify aluminum for any wires, pictured larger hole, cut out top with diagonal pliers ● Use scotch pad/steel wool to clean up cuts, holes, edges, as pictured ● Polish aluminum, by brushing in a back and forth direction, lengthwise, to reduce swirls, remove all marks (if possible), see picture ● Screw mount to aluminum ● Clean all grease and grime from hands (important to start keeping the aluminum clean of skin oils and such) ● Test fit in car ● Notice how aluminum was bent in secondary place to allow for better fit (picture with complete mount, after foam, unpainted) ● Trim sticky foam as needed based on test fit (eyeballing it is fine) see picture ● Apply single sided sticky foam where screws are and to add padding to keep aluminum and mount from marring the dash, see picture ● Use blue painters tape to cover device/device mount/wires/all parts not to be painted ● Use blue painters tape to cover backside of aluminum, which will touch any dash surface, to not paint aluminum where it meets the dash (otherwise on removal, the paint will be left on the dash, or use paint remover to remove that which might touch) ● Final Steel wool to clean any finger prints or grease and such so paint will stick, wipe with Acetone if needed, I always brush last with steel wool ● Paint; very light coats are better than heavy coats. Since the paint dries in 70-90 deg temps in 2-3 min, you can spray, shake can a few, spray, shake can, spray. The satin black looks more professional than flat, does not show finger prints after it is dry, and is much easier to paint on than gloss black. Trust me on this and look at my final product. I have only done 10 or so of these. When you spray your paint, make it go on like thin, so much that never put on a full coat, meaning it looks like sand thrown on glass. First coat you should see part of the aluminum, like it is been dusted. Keep doing that after it drys. The end product gives an excellent surface, multi coats, more chip protection, and a texture similar to black plastic you find in cars. ● Let paint dry, I leave it in the sun for 20-30 min to make sure, or if you have to hit it with a hair drier, but always hold you hand next to it and blow dry your hand too. If you get it too hot for your hand, it is too hot for the paint, so back off. ● Once dry, test fit the entire mount with device and all ● Screw in using the shown screws. This is not easy, but not hard, just requires a heavy hand. I NEVER Drill since there are just too many things that could scratch or break. I use a stubby screw driver and manually drive the screws through the dash material. They will make their own hole, and when you get close to bottom them out, you will notice they sinch down fine. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, else you will need to take it out, drill another hole and drive another screw through the dash. ● Once happy with fit test fit gauge bezel ● I filed down the bezel where it touched the aluminum, by this I mean i filed it from the back, at an angle, so as to not really touch the front of the plastic, 'cutting' in at a shallow angle and not at a right angle to the edge. ● Test fit again ● If all is tight and clean, remove bezel and wire device (I will not address this, and you can find other places to figure out how to wire in and find 12 volts. I suggest a ground under a screw on the steering column, and positive 12v from the fuse box under a fuse, but use a Multi meter to find voltage you want, I want mine on 12v ALL THE TIME, so I can leave the phone in the car if needed and it will charge) ● Once wired, replace bezel, plug in the air sensor that was removed ● The bottom of the bezel where the clips are can be pressed in I make a fist and pound it once or twice like I am pounding a fist on a desktop "we want food, we want food" style ● Replace the two screws on top with a 7mm socket. ● Enjoy. Pictures of most of the entire method are below. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The 755t, I am not sure, search for it. See what you can find, I have had it for 2 years. Skins, I am not sure I care about, over actual function. Lana, that was an iPhone correction error. The Panavise has the ball. If you look on their site, for a "Vehicle Specific Mount" you will find one for the Fusion. The "Ball" is what the Garmin suction cup mount has on it. That has nothing to do with what I made. What I made was in response to the title of this thread, an angled, rigid piece of metal that would fit in the vertical dash crack. Photos next post.

Yes on the Lana use site. The mount screws into the dash, behind the trim, with the skinny metal coming out with a garmin ball on it. My garmin 755t has everything you said. Earphone, SD, touch, will play music, of course gps, maps, poi, even Bluetooth speakerphone, downloads phonebook to. If you're the hackin type, you can update the maps without any cost. Where was this when I was a kid???? Having it all, with a map I can look around on. Nevermind. Ok I have a sh1t ton of photos, I basically rebuilt it the mount since I wanted it down and to the right more to make it eaiser to see. I will upload photos later tonight, I took shots almost step by step, to give all a better idea on how to do it. If anyone wants the pattern, I could scan it and then you could print it out for the bend marks. Mind you, if you ain't done this before, it might take two or three mounts to get it right. I have been making mounts like this since early 2000 for my cell phones. So I make it look easy. The best way is take manilla folder, or I use the thin floppy plastic cutting board that you can roll up and put in a drawer. I keep lots of sheets of this stuff in the shop, for many things. Mixing epoxy, cutting on the bench, taping to projects to protect surfaces et al. When I get off my iPhone and to a real keyboard I will type up a bunch more. A how to with tools and stuff, and the tricks.

Have you seen the PanaVise mounts that are just the ball?

Thought there were both Android and iPhone apps that would do the entire US, it is only around 8GB total.

Might try the local auto parts place, they have some rubber plugs in different sizes, some almost as big as a 1/2" pipe, with a round end. I have used them for numerous things, like plugging holes and capping off fuel lines. The ones I am talking about I used to cover an open 1/2" fuel line on some big blocks on my boat when I remove the fuel lines. Pretty stiff rubber too, meaning they wont crush easy, but they are not hard rubber like a mud flap. ...speaking of mud flaps, a single one from Tractor Supply goes a long way to numerous projects. Also, I use the single sided sticky home depot type window/door seal squishy black foam for lots of stuff. I put it on the back of my Cell Phone mount, to make sure the back of the bolts (which are tiny) would not get pushed into the dash and leave marks. It is useful for lots of things too. Pics tomorrow AM when there is light when I go to work.

The flapper door on the dash is mostly useless, but I was thinking of mounting the GPS up there, on a hinge, that would fold down when you press to close, up when open. It will shade the screen, not be in all that way, and hide when closed. Easy to get cables from dash there. Just remember if you have to remove that, there is a tether that holds it (and even with the tether out) I could not remove it from the car and take to the bench.