firesice18

Positive. It operated smoothly up until that piece chipped off and I hardly used it before then. I did however successfully remove the wind deflector with ease last night and now it operates fine again. It's a bit noisier and more airflow comes into the car, but a no cost solution for those with the same problem.

Here is a pic of the drivers side - the side that actually broke. You can compare the two and see exactly what is broken/missing causing the fault.

So the other day I go to close my sunroof and it wont close all the way. When I get home I take a look at whats going on and find out that the piece of plastic that pushes the wind deflector down during the close procedure, has broken off. Now I have to manually push this piece down when I close my sunroof - BOO!! This weekend I took the glass off to find out if there is a simple solution... there does not appear to be a cheap replacement procedure for this piece as it is molded into the sunroof rail. RIDICULOUS! For those of you who want to see exactly what fails please see below. This image is of the passenger side (not fully broken yet) just before its getting ready to break. You can see there are several cracks in the plastic (highlighted in red) which will lead to failure eventually. This piece comes on the sunroof rails and cost about $700 for the parts only. I am going to see if I can simply remove the wind deflector altogether and hopefully regain my sunroof without paying out the @$$ for it. I don't think this should cause any sealing issues. I'll keep you posted.

Precisely...

I think you are misunderstanding what I am saying. The problem is not that the gear casings are separated. That was done for you to see inside the casing. There are 4 bolts that hold the casing together and those are of no concern here. The problem is with the gear inside the casing chipping a tooth and not allowing the lead screw to rotate it from the motor.

So this is a little different than I have seen others post before about a broken sunroof. I was driving around with my sunroof open in my 2010 SE model and when I went to close it, it would not close all the way. When I got home I checked it out and found out that a piece of plastic was broken off of the drivers side of the sunroof. This plastic piece appears to be the piece that pushes down the front "windbreaker." Since the plastic piece was gone, the "windbreaker" stayed in the up position causing the sunroof to hit it and stop. I had to remove the broken plastic piece and manually hold down the "windbreaker" while my wife pushed the sunroof close switch - and then quickly remove my hand before the sunroof closed all the way as to not get pinched. Has anyone else experienced this before? I am starting to get quite pissed with this car because the sunroof messed the same week as my driver side power seat gear chipped a tooth and is not completely non functioning. Both irritating as hell! Please let me know. Also, does the headliner need to be removed in order to work on the sunroof? Then do the side pillars all have to be removed before the headliner is removed? What a PAIN!

Ok so I had this same issue come up in my 2010 Ford Fusion SE without leather and without heated seats. Per "Oldguy16" recommendation - I took my seat out and reviewed the issue. Apparently, the plastic gear that is used in that motor/gear connection point, has a broken tooth and when the gear tries to rotate the opposing gear, it goes into an indefinite "slip". It does not appear to me that the gear is easily replaceable - nor do I believe you can purchase this gear from Ford - I hope I am wrong because my wife also uses my car and likes the seat positioned differently. If you are like me, and NEED to move the seat back to the position you need it in, you can take the seat out and physically "help" the motor rotate the broken gear back to position... but sadly after that it will slip again. It's not particularly "easy" and its really greasy. Here are some pics of the area: Underseat Area - notice open gear section One example of opened gear connection Example two of opened gear connection This sucks...

Some part numbers would be most helpful. I am ready to perform this mod right now and want to order some parts...

I realize that it is a long shot, however, all I need to do is find someone with the right tune strategy as I want with the same PCM code as mine. Then the tuner should, essentially, do the same for the original user as it did for mine, right? Perhaps my logic is off but I have not tuned a Fusion before but am very knowledgeable when it comes to electronics and take care of things in my possesssion. There are a lot of peopel out there who have purchased tuners... and if there is an opportunity to share the tuner and get some kickback for the original cost AND get your tuner back in working order... than whats the hold up?

UPDATE?!?!

Essentially what I am looking for, is to pay someone to send me their used SCT X3 Tuner that has the tune that I am looking for. I will tune my Fusion and then have it shipped back to you. The retail price for this tuner is too expensive as I do not have any performance mods currently so if I could pay someone to borrow it for my tune and then return it safely, that would be ideal for me. I have a 2.5L 2010 Fusion with no performance mods and want to stay on 87 octane gas. Is a tune even worthe it at this point? Has anyone done this and is willing to allow such a deal for their unit? Please let me know. Thanks.

Not if you have a 2.5L like me... pretty limited there as the engine is too new I guess?

What is the weight difference between the OEM, Street and Race version of this sway bar design?

So I wanted to add another review of XENON EXPERT's return policy. My driver side HID bulb already went out and through several days of e-mail communications, and several different trial and error attempt directions from XENON EXPERT, It was finally deteremind that the bulb had failed. Now, in order to have this replaced, I have to take BOTH HID bulbs out and send them back to XENON EXPERT and pay for shipping both ways! This means I had to re-install my halogen headlamp bulbs (Good thing I saved them!) for probably the next 2-3 weeks while I wait for new bulbs to show up. I will say this, if it were a requirement that the front bumper needed to be removed from my Fusion in order to access the bulb that they had me troubleshoot several different ways over several days, I would be even MORE pissed than I am at this point. It's just crappy service for twice the cost of buying it direct from DDMTuning.com. Am I wrong for being upset here?

I really would like to review the power window wiring diagrams for the 2010 and the 2011 Ford Fusions. Does any one have them? I am more so interested in the automatic passenger side window in the 2011 vs. the non-automatic window in the 2010. I'm sure a simple review of the two will verify if adding the auto windows to the 2010 is possible or not. ANyone have these handy?