firesice18

Positive. It operated smoothly up until that piece chipped off and I hardly used it before then. I did however successfully remove the wind deflector with ease last night and now it operates fine again. It's a bit noisier and more airflow comes into the car, but a no cost solution for those with the same problem.

Here is a pic of the drivers side - the side that actually broke. You can compare the two and see exactly what is broken/missing causing the fault.

So the other day I go to close my sunroof and it wont close all the way. When I get home I take a look at whats going on and find out that the piece of plastic that pushes the wind deflector down during the close procedure, has broken off. Now I have to manually push this piece down when I close my sunroof - BOO!! This weekend I took the glass off to find out if there is a simple solution... there does not appear to be a cheap replacement procedure for this piece as it is molded into the sunroof rail. RIDICULOUS! For those of you who want to see exactly what fails please see below. This image is of the passenger side (not fully broken yet) just before its getting ready to break. You can see there are several cracks in the plastic (highlighted in red) which will lead to failure eventually. This piece comes on the sunroof rails and cost about $700 for the parts only. I am going to see if I can simply remove the wind deflector altogether and hopefully regain my sunroof without paying out the @$$ for it. I don't think this should cause any sealing issues. I'll keep you posted.

Precisely...

I think you are misunderstanding what I am saying. The problem is not that the gear casings are separated. That was done for you to see inside the casing. There are 4 bolts that hold the casing together and those are of no concern here. The problem is with the gear inside the casing chipping a tooth and not allowing the lead screw to rotate it from the motor.

So this is a little different than I have seen others post before about a broken sunroof. I was driving around with my sunroof open in my 2010 SE model and when I went to close it, it would not close all the way. When I got home I checked it out and found out that a piece of plastic was broken off of the drivers side of the sunroof. This plastic piece appears to be the piece that pushes down the front "windbreaker." Since the plastic piece was gone, the "windbreaker" stayed in the up position causing the sunroof to hit it and stop. I had to remove the broken plastic piece and manually hold down the "windbreaker" while my wife pushed the sunroof close switch - and then quickly remove my hand before the sunroof closed all the way as to not get pinched. Has anyone else experienced this before? I am starting to get quite pissed with this car because the sunroof messed the same week as my driver side power seat gear chipped a tooth and is not completely non functioning. Both irritating as hell! Please let me know. Also, does the headliner need to be removed in order to work on the sunroof? Then do the side pillars all have to be removed before the headliner is removed? What a PAIN!

Ok so I had this same issue come up in my 2010 Ford Fusion SE without leather and without heated seats. Per "Oldguy16" recommendation - I took my seat out and reviewed the issue. Apparently, the plastic gear that is used in that motor/gear connection point, has a broken tooth and when the gear tries to rotate the opposing gear, it goes into an indefinite "slip". It does not appear to me that the gear is easily replaceable - nor do I believe you can purchase this gear from Ford - I hope I am wrong because my wife also uses my car and likes the seat positioned differently. If you are like me, and NEED to move the seat back to the position you need it in, you can take the seat out and physically "help" the motor rotate the broken gear back to position... but sadly after that it will slip again. It's not particularly "easy" and its really greasy. Here are some pics of the area: Underseat Area - notice open gear section One example of opened gear connection Example two of opened gear connection This sucks...

Some part numbers would be most helpful. I am ready to perform this mod right now and want to order some parts...

I realize that it is a long shot, however, all I need to do is find someone with the right tune strategy as I want with the same PCM code as mine. Then the tuner should, essentially, do the same for the original user as it did for mine, right? Perhaps my logic is off but I have not tuned a Fusion before but am very knowledgeable when it comes to electronics and take care of things in my possesssion. There are a lot of peopel out there who have purchased tuners... and if there is an opportunity to share the tuner and get some kickback for the original cost AND get your tuner back in working order... than whats the hold up?

UPDATE?!?!

Essentially what I am looking for, is to pay someone to send me their used SCT X3 Tuner that has the tune that I am looking for. I will tune my Fusion and then have it shipped back to you. The retail price for this tuner is too expensive as I do not have any performance mods currently so if I could pay someone to borrow it for my tune and then return it safely, that would be ideal for me. I have a 2.5L 2010 Fusion with no performance mods and want to stay on 87 octane gas. Is a tune even worthe it at this point? Has anyone done this and is willing to allow such a deal for their unit? Please let me know. Thanks.

Not if you have a 2.5L like me... pretty limited there as the engine is too new I guess?

What is the weight difference between the OEM, Street and Race version of this sway bar design?

So I wanted to add another review of XENON EXPERT's return policy. My driver side HID bulb already went out and through several days of e-mail communications, and several different trial and error attempt directions from XENON EXPERT, It was finally deteremind that the bulb had failed. Now, in order to have this replaced, I have to take BOTH HID bulbs out and send them back to XENON EXPERT and pay for shipping both ways! This means I had to re-install my halogen headlamp bulbs (Good thing I saved them!) for probably the next 2-3 weeks while I wait for new bulbs to show up. I will say this, if it were a requirement that the front bumper needed to be removed from my Fusion in order to access the bulb that they had me troubleshoot several different ways over several days, I would be even MORE pissed than I am at this point. It's just crappy service for twice the cost of buying it direct from DDMTuning.com. Am I wrong for being upset here?

I really would like to review the power window wiring diagrams for the 2010 and the 2011 Ford Fusions. Does any one have them? I am more so interested in the automatic passenger side window in the 2011 vs. the non-automatic window in the 2010. I'm sure a simple review of the two will verify if adding the auto windows to the 2010 is possible or not. ANyone have these handy?

I have not done anything with this up to this point. Time has been SO limited lately. I actually thought about doing a similar thing to my lower rear bumper valance with the Fusion logo cut out and red LED's backlighting it...

Post removed due to new Ford Fusion Forum advertising rules. See post #3 below.

LOL OMG what have you done?!?!

So I recently added the OEM cupholder ring and OEM switch to my Fusion (which was a bit cumbersome but very possible with custom wiring) and since I had replaced my button assembly in the dash, I took it apart and powered it up to see what color it emitted. The LEDs in the dash actually are blue/green LED's... not white. My idea is actually to take the slim plastic piece on the right hand side of the dash and use a waterjet to cutout the Fusion logo and then backlight it with color matched LED's in the dash. Thoughts?

I did not have any bulb out warnings or anything of the sort with my slim digital ballast from DDM. Nor did I have any flickering or extra capacitor requirements.

AutoXR1... great job and I love the place you found to mount your ballast... however, My kit did not come with a mounting bracket. It was supposed to come with double sided tape only and I didn't even get that. The reason for looking up the install instructions on DDMTuning's website was to figure out what the hell I was supposed to do with two spade terminals on the end of the wires. Through me for a loop when I did not see any H11 mating connector NOR did I see any way of properly securing that connection! lol... I was stunned honestly... very poor in my opinion. You get what you pay for... but in this case I got ripped off by XENONEXPERT.COM. Get what you deserve and just order direct from DDMTuning.com and save the rest of your money for the proper accessories required for a proper installation. Does anyone know where to get a mounting bracket for the slim ballast? I believe in some 3M double sided tape as that shit is amazing... however not in an engine bay where the temps get hot. Worst case scenario I will just have to leave them where they are or make my own bracket. See the image for the mounting location of my ballast. I had to remove two bolts and lift up on that frame slightly in order to mount it there... but it worked out nicely when I was in a pinch (snow). BTW, I think that the large black thing hanging around inline in the harness is a capacitor. Personal recommendation, take the time to figure out some way to securely mount it and don't just let it hang.

So I recently purchased a DDMTuning HID kit from XenonExpert.com which I had been referred to through this forum. After purchasing a 5K 35W H11 HID Kit with Slim Ballasts I wanted to provide a review highlighting some of the shortcomings so that the next person has their eyes wide open if they choose to go this route. First and foremost, XenonExpert.com orders their kits directly from DDMTuning and they ship from China. This means that you can go to DDMTuning.com and order exactly the same product from exactly the same place for less than half the price: Xenon Expert - $85 + $20 Shipping (which took 2 full weeks to arrive) DDMTuning - $40 + $20 Shipping Secondly, here are my highlights: 1. There was no mounting bracket included for the ballast a. The kit says to mount the ballast with double sided tape (which was not even included in my kit) 2. There was a huge sealed box inline in the wiring harness (possibly a relay?) that will sway and bump around if not secured as well a. No notation or recommendation at all for secure placement of this piece 3. No installation instructions included or available on XenonExpert website a. I had to go to DDMTuning.com to download install instructions 4. There was no H11 mating connector included in the install harness – just two spade like terminals that are to be plugged in (VERY UNSECURELY BTW) to the H11 headlight socket in the vehicle a. I used electrical tape ( as this is all I had readily available) to make sure that these terminals did not come unplugged from the H11 headlight socket 5. The ballast is extremely noisy during startup – I sincerely recommend adding a rubber sleeve the ballast could be installed into to decrease noise… the startup noise is annoying and embarrassing I mounted my ballasts directly above my headlamp assembly because this was easy and it started snowing on me. Knowing just how noisy these things are on startup, I will try to find another mounting location deeper in the engine bay somewhere. Hopefully this helps the next person...

Does anyone have any idea exactly what color of LEDs are used in the dash of the 2010 and up model year Fusions? I have a lighting idea I would like to mock up and just curious if anyone has a clue so I can match as closely as possible.

In an effort to upgrade my exhaust system on my 2.5L I4 2010 Ford Fusion SE, I would like to know if the lower "plastic" valance on the rear bumper is replaceable? I want the dual exhaust setup but do not want to have to replace the entire rear bumper so if the rear valance is replaceable this would make things much easier.

I would recommend verifying that the socket for the bulb is still making good contact with the bulb. I have seen various issues in which the socket contacts are very loose causing premature bulb failure. Unless you are buying EXTREMELY cheap chinese bulbs, it might be the socket.