andrewdingemans

I ended up using the accessory lighting under the middle console. checked with multimeter to ensure it was a switched circuit. I also have my front and rear dash cam hooked up to this circuit. You want to make sure that any lines you tap are separately fused to ensure you don't fry your car's electrical system.

Where did you get the ball stud screw? It was the only thing that didn't come with mine. I still need to get it and ford doesn't seem to know what to get when I show them. If you have a part number that would be great! Thanks

Mind you the steeda product is technically not a cold air but more of a short ram filter with an air box. A true cold air will run the filter down into the bumper cavity.

So from the photo above, I trimmed off both tabs ant the raised area in the middle. Thinking about it now, I may not have trimmed the middle part, but due to clearance issues I have with my driveway, I needed a bit of room. Right in the corners where the lip turns back, I cut little relief triangles to when I heat it up I was able to bend it easier. I measured and marked the middle of my bumper and the lip and set the firs screw in the middle. I continued by heating and adding a self tapping screw every 3-4 inches (I don't want this thing coming off). I don't have any pictures of this process as I did it myself

I solved it by just turning up the volume! LOL

Not on here much, but thought I would update anyone who hasn't seen my updates on Fusion Nation, Fusion Club, or FFC. Bit of work was needed to get it to work, but it eventually did. Existing Lip was beat up really bad, even with 5" of ground clearance Lots of scratches even with the HD Lip New Lip compared to HD Lip Bit of trimming needed to get it to work Final Result prior to paint or wrap 3.5" of ground clearance And for the notorious driveway cheat photo

a premium tune may not do anything for you if you don't have a ram air filter or cold-air intake. also steeda does have 83 and 89 octane tunes. Not to mention the tune and sct unit will set you back $400. If you throw that money at it, fork out the extra $200 and get the CAI or Short Ram air filter.

I know...I was diggin my own grave lol

Sorry, I may have made a tiny mistake. I just got disproved with a little more research and speaking with my uncle (mechanic) Below you will see the true application of a 'Strut' assembly. Below is the front Fusion Assembly: The terms are consistently mis-used by all especially in the industry. I guess what can be said is the fusion has a front 'coilover' and not necessarily a 'strut'. Sorry for fuelling the confusion I'll be quiet now...

For us who are more visual. Example of a strut: Shocks don't have seats for a spring. Shocks are located in the rear of the 2010+ fusions: Coilover:

I can speak for my 2010 in the fact that my understanding of a strut is that it is used as a steering pivot. The fork at the bottom of my shock tower rotates when the wheel is turned. A shock is the piston component of the suspension assembly From the Monroe website Therefore: Strut

I have a buddy with an impala here in toronto (a cop) and he has the gun smoke lamin-x on the tails and some kind of clear on the headlights (to prevent fading and stone chips) and there has been no problems at either extremes of temperature -40C all the way up to 35C

Just put the front and back ones on my car. They worked pretty good. back one needed tiny bit of modification

Bigger subs, amp and construction stuff and rolls of drawings for work

I guess it all depends how you drive it. After I did the tune I also had more gear in my car plus I drove it much harder since my 'butt-o-meter' told me it felt faster. Not to mention I love to listen to the sound of my exhaust in the higher revs LOL. So far I'm seeing the same MPG's. The winter will obviously be worse, and after an oil change it will improve. If I drove it the same as before the tune and took stuff out of my car I am pretty sure I'll see a tiny gain in MPG's but with the custom one Pat at Steeda here in Milton did for me, I told him to ignore the fuel economy in return for a tiny bit more power.

haha, that is no problem at all. Pricey product, but it has so far proven itself well. The molded ones I would have a HUGE scraping issue with from speed bumps so I opted for these soft urethane ones

I am averaging about 17.5 mpg. Best ever was 21.5. 2010 Sport AWD 3.5L, 94 Premium Unleaded. Put about 1,300 gallons of fuel in the car last year!!! (about 22,000 miles or $6,600 CAD)

The speed 6 brake upgrade will not allow you to run any 16" rim. I have a brand new set of winters that I can no longer use due to the fact that my patience ran out and I did the upgrade. Smallest rim size is 17" with the speed 6 brake upgrade. With searching around almost everywhere is advising 18 as the smallest to go. I am getting between +48 and +52 as an offset for stock speed 6 rims. 17's however are the way to go for winters, much better priced than 18's

They are the universal urethane ones. The fronts required a bit of modifying because of part of the splash guard in the wheel well.

I have a set of rally armor on mine and they do an amazing job of keeping mud and snow off the car. After the dumping we had yesterday, no snow kicked up on the rear bumper or on the front doors. You get splatters from other cars around, but keeps everything coming off your wheels, off the car. I do have mine hanging out about an inch from the side of the car, but that's because my wheels are set flush with the side of the car.

Holy thread revival batman, but just my small input. I was quoted by 2 guys to do a custom turbo kit and they were within a few hundred of eachother at about $8,000. Then there is another $1,500-$2,000 to fit/upgrade the transmission as that is where the power will be unusable and you will constantly run into problems breaking the transmission especially if you drive it hard all the time. If not upgrading the transmission, the low psi being used from the turbo would hardly be worth the cost of install. not to mention, the intake will need to be upgraded as i think the pressures will eventually crack the plastic intake manifold. Not to mention all the dyno runs to make sure the car can perform in hot and cold weather.

Thanks. They look great and sound even better. They add a little more growl to the already awesome sound of the Borla. Yeah, I was the same but it has grown on me. With where my wheels sit with spacers, the flaps are only protruding less than 1/4" from the face of the tire. The way the bumper slopes to the underside of the car makes the flaps appear to be very far out.

u2ny27 sorry for the late reply. Pretty much do all of the upgrades that I have done? things that affect the sound are the Steeda Intake, Borla Exhaust, and a little bit to do with the tips (they work on the same principle of a megaphone). I also have the SCT 93 Tune, but not sure if that affects sound. QTP is the supplier and the cutout is pretty much a muffler bypass that in theory is supposed to remove exhaust restrictions therefore resulting in higher horsepower. Unfortunately with increased horsepower applied this way, there is a loss of torque. Some tinkering and pressure testing a few weeks ago I found that the QTP had a small leak, which in-turn caused the high pitched whine that was coming at take-off and higher revs. I wish the whistling could be from a turbo, but with my car having all the bells and whistles and a cramped engine bay I don't have $8,000 to throw at a custom turbo setup and to leave it in a shop for the needed 3 months. The exhaust tips I got from ebay and they are spec'd for the camaro's and corvettes. I parked near a 'vette this past weekend and he asked what corvette did I 'steal' my tips from. Keep in mind I hacked up my $1,200 Borla less than 6 months after to put on some $200 exhaust tips. (I call that dedication) I did the modifications required for the rear valance. If you aren't comfortable hacking up your current one, you can always buy one off ebay and hack that one up. It took me a bit of math to figure out how to cut it properly with all the angles and to get even spacing all the way around etc. Hope I helped answer your questions. I'll try to check back here a bit more often.

Only video I currently have of the exhaust. I'll try and get a new one with the new tips, doesn't sound too different though. Video really doesn't do it justice

I certainly will. I stand by hawk pads. I've used them on every car that i've done brake jobs for. Great stopping power. The ferro-carbon compound acts almost like the ceramic pads in the sense that they perform better when they are warm. It takes a few km before the pads warm up when the temp is below 0 degrees celsius, but they perform exceptional in the spring and summer and on the track. I will have to wait until next year to get the car on the track to test the performance.