awdpath

- 65fordmustang (http://www.fordfusion.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3875)

If it's the throttle body, you can DIY for < $200.00.

See http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WO9FSN/~MUS~LEN/41/09frdwa2e.pdf for more details.

The five specific EPA tests should be published so that consumers can make better informed decisions. Source: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/fe_test_schedules.shtml

A 2013 model? Make sure the trunk is closed/locked.

Your transmission is covered by the 5/60,000 powertrain warranty and the 8/80,000 (Transmission Control Module (TCM) and Solenoids) EMISSIONS DEFECT/PERFORMANCE WARRANTY COVERAGES. See http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WOBFSN/~MUS~LEN/41/11frdwa6e.pdf ( note the emissions warranties for California is different) .

The driveshaft part# is AE5Z-4R602-A (revised). You should be able to buy it for about $600.00. http://www.wholesalefordparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1128403&ukey_make=1243&ukey_model=20118 http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-shaft-asy-drive_7e5z-4r602-b.html

This is how it's done with the 2013 Escape ( not a safe feature - should be on HID HUD):

"I had the same problem. I have a 2008 Ford Fusion. i found the answer on a F150 Forum site. Instead of turning the car on like normal - turn the key on until you get all of the idiot lights to come on without the car starting. Leave it on for 25 to 30 seconds and then start the car. It worked like a champ. Drive the car a little hard for a day or so to let the computer system relearn your driving. Cheers! :spiteful:" - by scooter78 See the original thread here ( also the 'relearning' steps for the car you might want to go through) : http://www.fordfusio...-issue/?p=46799

The answer is no. But why do some people think so? I think is from the people who had bad experiences with the 'old' slip and grip AWD systems which quite often don't transfer power/torque between the axles smoothly. Actually, it was more like a jolt - hence, the term 'spider bite' (must be startling). Now imagine the chain of events that follow while driving at say 60 mph when the car starts hydroplaning !

"I had the same problem. I have a 2008 Ford Fusion. i found the answer on a F150 Forum site. Instead of turning the car on like normal - turn the key on until you get all of the idiot lights to come on without the car starting. Leave it on for 25 to 30 seconds and then start the car. It worked like a champ. Drive the car a little hard for a day or so to let the computer system relearn your driving. Cheers! :spiteful:" - by scooter78 See the original thread here ( also the 'relearning' steps for the car you might want to go through) : http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/3933-car-will-not-accelerate-after-battery-issue/?p=46799

With the car off, disconnect the battery ground cable (-) from the battery (careful !) and wait for about 10 minutes ( and then reconnect of course) . While waiting, check to make sure you did not knock connection(s) out of place when you were replacing the battery. See post #67.

Even if the AWD Fusion was tested by the EPA, were they using dual roller dyno then? The original Fusion AWD program (2007/8) was tuned for traction and handling mainly by the use of torque vectoring. The 'stop and go' test cycles ( especially the cold temperature test) is what really should hurt the earlier AWD Fusions' fuel economy. The AWD Fusions actually did really well in actual driving conditions. I do mind about the fuel economy but I am also willing to pay a few hundred dollars more for gas per year simply for the better driving performances.

From the EPA ... Driving on hilly or mountainous terrain or on unpaved roads can reduce fuel economy. The EPA test assumes vehicles operate on flat ground. Using 4-wheel drive reduces fuel economy. Four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in 2-wheel drive. Engaging all four wheels makes the engine work harder and increases transfer case and differential losses. - http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/factors.shtml The EPA fuel economy tests use 100 percent gasoline, and no adjustments are made to account for ethanol. Most conventional vehicles using E10 (10 percent ethanol) will experience a 3 to 4 percent reduction in fuel economy. - http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/info.shtml And if the drive is in freezing temperatures for 'short' durations (< 10 minutes), a 20% reduction in fuel economy is expected.

1ofakindgt's numbers ( not the 'Amsoil' #s) can easily be achieved in the summer with the 2007 AWD 16" wheel/tire setup. To get 14 US MPG ( ~17 L/100 km !) , you must be driving on very hilly terrains ( or idling a lot along with short drives in freezing temperatures). Try have the engine warmed up to normal operating temperature and while driving on a relatively flat expressway, reset the mileage reading. Continue to drive for 5-10 km and you should get 8.5 L/100km (27 US MPG) easily.