awdpath

- 65fordmustang (http://www.fordfusion.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3875)

If it's the throttle body, you can DIY for < $200.00.

See http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WO9FSN/~MUS~LEN/41/09frdwa2e.pdf for more details.

The five specific EPA tests should be published so that consumers can make better informed decisions. Source: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/fe_test_schedules.shtml

A 2013 model? Make sure the trunk is closed/locked.

Your transmission is covered by the 5/60,000 powertrain warranty and the 8/80,000 (Transmission Control Module (TCM) and Solenoids) EMISSIONS DEFECT/PERFORMANCE WARRANTY COVERAGES. See http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WOBFSN/~MUS~LEN/41/11frdwa6e.pdf ( note the emissions warranties for California is different) .

The driveshaft part# is AE5Z-4R602-A (revised). You should be able to buy it for about $600.00. http://www.wholesalefordparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1128403&ukey_make=1243&ukey_model=20118 http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-shaft-asy-drive_7e5z-4r602-b.html

This is how it's done with the 2013 Escape ( not a safe feature - should be on HID HUD):

"I had the same problem. I have a 2008 Ford Fusion. i found the answer on a F150 Forum site. Instead of turning the car on like normal - turn the key on until you get all of the idiot lights to come on without the car starting. Leave it on for 25 to 30 seconds and then start the car. It worked like a champ. Drive the car a little hard for a day or so to let the computer system relearn your driving. Cheers! :spiteful:" - by scooter78 See the original thread here ( also the 'relearning' steps for the car you might want to go through) : http://www.fordfusio...-issue/?p=46799

The answer is no. But why do some people think so? I think is from the people who had bad experiences with the 'old' slip and grip AWD systems which quite often don't transfer power/torque between the axles smoothly. Actually, it was more like a jolt - hence, the term 'spider bite' (must be startling). Now imagine the chain of events that follow while driving at say 60 mph when the car starts hydroplaning !

"I had the same problem. I have a 2008 Ford Fusion. i found the answer on a F150 Forum site. Instead of turning the car on like normal - turn the key on until you get all of the idiot lights to come on without the car starting. Leave it on for 25 to 30 seconds and then start the car. It worked like a champ. Drive the car a little hard for a day or so to let the computer system relearn your driving. Cheers! :spiteful:" - by scooter78 See the original thread here ( also the 'relearning' steps for the car you might want to go through) : http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/3933-car-will-not-accelerate-after-battery-issue/?p=46799

With the car off, disconnect the battery ground cable (-) from the battery (careful !) and wait for about 10 minutes ( and then reconnect of course) . While waiting, check to make sure you did not knock connection(s) out of place when you were replacing the battery. See post #67.

Even if the AWD Fusion was tested by the EPA, were they using dual roller dyno then? The original Fusion AWD program (2007/8) was tuned for traction and handling mainly by the use of torque vectoring. The 'stop and go' test cycles ( especially the cold temperature test) is what really should hurt the earlier AWD Fusions' fuel economy. The AWD Fusions actually did really well in actual driving conditions. I do mind about the fuel economy but I am also willing to pay a few hundred dollars more for gas per year simply for the better driving performances.

From the EPA ... Driving on hilly or mountainous terrain or on unpaved roads can reduce fuel economy. The EPA test assumes vehicles operate on flat ground. Using 4-wheel drive reduces fuel economy. Four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in 2-wheel drive. Engaging all four wheels makes the engine work harder and increases transfer case and differential losses. - http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/factors.shtml The EPA fuel economy tests use 100 percent gasoline, and no adjustments are made to account for ethanol. Most conventional vehicles using E10 (10 percent ethanol) will experience a 3 to 4 percent reduction in fuel economy. - http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/info.shtml And if the drive is in freezing temperatures for 'short' durations (< 10 minutes), a 20% reduction in fuel economy is expected.

1ofakindgt's numbers ( not the 'Amsoil' #s) can easily be achieved in the summer with the 2007 AWD 16" wheel/tire setup. To get 14 US MPG ( ~17 L/100 km !) , you must be driving on very hilly terrains ( or idling a lot along with short drives in freezing temperatures). Try have the engine warmed up to normal operating temperature and while driving on a relatively flat expressway, reset the mileage reading. Continue to drive for 5-10 km and you should get 8.5 L/100km (27 US MPG) easily.

The V6 3.0 engine is about 150 lbs heavier than the I4 ! However, the V6 3.0 AWD (07-12) has a lower center of gravity ( lower than the BMW3 xi, Audi4 awd, Subaru Impreza/Legacy, Acura TL/RL awd )

From the US Warranty Guide (2010 Fusion Owner Information): Page 18 EMISSIONS DEFECT WARRANTY COVERAGE During the warranty coverage period, Ford Motor Company warrants that: • your vehicle or engine is designed, built, and equipped to meet - at the time it is sold - the emissions regulations of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). • your vehicle or engine is free from emission-related defects in factory-supplied materials or workmanship, which are defects that could prevent the vehicle or engine from conforming with applicable EPA regulations. • you will not be charged for diagnosis, repair, replacement, or adjustment of parts containing an emissions-related defect. Applicable parts are listed under What is Covered? on pages 20-21. The warranty coverage period for: •Passenger cars, light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up to 8,500 pounds GVWR) — 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic converters, electronic engine control unit (ECU), transmission control module (TCM), and any other onboard emissions diagnostic module. — 3 years or 36,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other covered parts. • Heavy duty vehicles (applies to trucks over 8,500 pounds GVWR up to 19,500 pounds GVWR) — 5 years or 50,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all covered parts. See WHAT IS COVERED for list of covered parts. Page 19 EMISSIONS PERFORMANCE WARRANTY COVERAGE Under Emissions Performance Warranty Coverage, Ford Motor Company will repair, replace, or adjust - with no charge for labor, diagnosis, or parts - any emissions control device or system, if you meet all of the following conditions: • You have maintained and operated your vehicle according to the instructions on proper care in the Owner Guide, the Scheduled Maintenance Guide, and this booklet. • Your vehicle fails to conform, during the warranty coverage period, to the applicable national EPA standards, as determined by an EPA approved inspection and maintenance program. • You are subject to a penalty or sanction under local, state, or federal law because your vehicle has failed to conform to the emissions standards. (A penalty or sanction can include being denied the right to use your vehicle.) • Your vehicle has not been tampered with, misused, or abused. The warranty coverage period for: • Passenger cars, light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up to 8,500 pounds GVWR) — 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic converter, electronic emission control unit (ECU), transmission control module (TCM), and any other onboard emissions diagnostic module — 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other covered parts. • Heavy duty vehicles (applies to trucks over 8,500 pounds GVWR up to 19,500 pounds GVWR) — 5 years or 50,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all covered parts. See WHAT IS COVERED for list of covered parts. Note that the warranty period begins on the Warranty Start Date as specified on page 2 of this booklet.

Does not mean/tell us much. For example , I reset the mileage and the average speed readings then drove my warmed up 2007 AWD Fusion SE (still on all original factory equipements minus the plastic ring in the shifter, lol ) on a relatively flat expressway for about 30 miles at an average speed of 65 mph in windless condition. The mileage .... 31 US MPG

Not really " a fix" because the problem seems to be a design flaw.

Dealers only go by manufacturers' specs. I think this dealer just don't want to associate with you in adjusting the lights "higher" ( it's assumed you will do that). If the projectors are biased downwards, it's better to use the regular 55 watt bulbs with the projectors raised. At night, it's not how clearly you can see but how much you can see.

The issue you are having with the car may (very likely!) fall under TSB 07-18-6 SEPTEMBER 2007 Drivetrain - Front Axle Clicking/Ratcheting Noises ( replace front CV shafts). Ford Fusion TSB 07-18-6 should be covered under the 2007 Powertrain Coverage ( 5 years or 60 000 miles, whichever occurs first for all 2007 Fusion/Milan models).

You have no idea what you are getting into. Do you, 'josh_4184' ? You and your wife will be pleasantly surprised. Hint: the only thing you will likely miss ( that is under optimal road condition) is the 100 hp. ... caring husband rewarded! Your Fusion's front suspension system ( rear is "twisted blade" multi-link independent type in the background of the picture): Your AWD preview ( the 2010+ models include lateral/yawl "Stability Control"): Oh ... one more thing, about your Duratec 30 engine: The primary engineering input came from Porsche, who were developing a similar V6 before selling the engineering to Ford, and Cosworth, who helped with cylinder head manufacturing - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Mondeo_V6_engine

The instruction is in the Owner's Manual (page 23 for 2010 models? ). Go to ... Message Center ... - Units(English/Metric). Note: English = Imperial (USA) and Canadian would be under "Metric" The 2010 Owner's Manual ... click on link to look it up .... http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/SPubs/default.asp?pageid=oghome&gutsid=spubs_serv_all_new&TYPE=OWNERGUIDE&menuIndex1=17

Get the SEL ( better balance) AWD version and downsize the tires to 205-60-16 (winter or all season, see tirerack.com) with light weight wheels. Take a look at the Suzuki Kizashi AWD and the Subaru Legacy AWD for similar type of vehicles comparison.

When topped up, make sure the cooled coolant is at the yellow "full" line. How did you "bred" the coolant lines? I had this issue with my 2007 Fusion (3L) two years ago. Even though I can see the coolant in the pressurized coolant reservor, I ended up putting in an additional quart (1L) of mixed coolant.