awdpath

Put key in ignition

Push gas pedal to floor......let off

Turn key on as if you were gonna start it up don't...push gas to floor.....let off

Turn key off

Turn key on and start.

- 65fordmustang (http://www.fordfusion.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3875)

If it's the throttle body, you can DIY for < $200.00.

I bought my 2009 SE V6 last September and specifically avoided the 6F35 due to all the reported problems on this forum. Now I'm experiencing hard shifts both up and down when decelerating or accelerating slowly, such as when I'm in heavy traffic and in parking lots. If I accelerate harder it's much more smooth. The car is also a little bit jerky if I'm driving at highway speed and let my foot completely off the accelerator and when I go from coasting to accelerating again, I'm not sure if this is normal or not. Are there any relevant TSBs for my car? I've tried searching the forum, but I'm getting stuff for every year except 2009. There is a nice list of TSBs for 2006 and 2007, but none for 2009. Also I'm out of warranty, how much luck have people had getting Ford/dealers to flash their transmissions out of warranty?

 

EDIT: My current millage is 29,500.

Extended warranty coverage periods are available for certain

vehicle parts and conditions. Specifically,

 

(1) Your vehicle’s Powertrain components are covered for five years or

60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. The extended coverage applies to

the Engine: all internal lubricated parts, cylinder block, cylinder heads,

electrical fuel pump, electronic engine control unit, engine mounts,

flywheel, injection pump, manifold (exhaust and intake), manifold bolts,

oil pan, oil pump, seals and gaskets, thermostat, thermostat housing,

timing chain cover, timing chain (gears or belt),

turbocharger/supercharger unit, valve covers, water pump;

 

Transmission: all internal parts, clutch cover, seals and gaskets, torque

converter, transfer case (including all internal parts), transmission case,

transmission mounts; Front-Wheel Drive: axle shafts, bearings (front

and rear), center support bearing, drive shafts, final drive housing

(including all internal parts), hubs-automatic front locking (four-wheel

drive), locking rings (four-wheel drive), seals and gaskets, universal and

constant velocity joints; Rear-Wheel Drive: axle shafts, bearings (front

and rear), center support bearing, drive axle housing (including all

internal parts), drive shaft, propeller shafts, retainers, supports, seals and

gaskets, universal and constant velocity joints.

 

 

Parts Covered by Emissions Warranties (8/80,000)

 

-Transmission Control Module

(TCM)

See http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WO9FSN/~MUS~LEN/41/09frdwa2e.pdf for more details.

The five specific EPA tests should be published so that consumers can make better informed decisions.

Source: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/fe_test_schedules.shtml

...

 

Yesterday when my husband and I were got home I listened for him to lock the vehicle and it beeped twice to signal it was armed. (the vehicle is new to us so I was listening to ensure he locked it properly). The keys were then hung up and not touched till I went to work this morning. No one else lives with us so there is no other person who would have used the keys. Both sets of keys I have are accounted for. If the alarm had beeped we would have heard it as the car is outside our bedroom window.

 

I am baffled as to how someone gained access to our vehicle last night. There is no sign of forced entry, no broken windows, no sign they used a tool to unlock the doors as the moldings all look excellent. But someone was in the vehicle as some things were missing and every compartment was wide open and the trunk left open. We were very lucky as this person just took a few things and did no damage.

 

Any thoughts as to what happened or how to prevent this in the future?

Thanks

A 2013 model?

Make sure the trunk is closed/locked.

I have a 2011 Fusion SEL 4 cylinder, approaching 36K and getting antsy about having no bumper to bumper warranty after that. What do you all recommend? Do I need one? (didn't with my Honda Civic but did with our Mercury Villager and Chevy Lumina)

Your transmission is covered by the 5/60,000 powertrain warranty and the 8/80,000 (Transmission Control Module (TCM) and Solenoids) EMISSIONS DEFECT/PERFORMANCE WARRANTY COVERAGES.

See http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WOBFSN/~MUS~LEN/41/11frdwa6e.pdf ( note the emissions warranties for California is different) .

The driveshaft part# is AE5Z-4R602-A (revised). You should be able to buy it for about $600.00.

http://www.wholesalefordparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1128403&ukey_make=1243&ukey_model=20118

http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-shaft-asy-drive_7e5z-4r602-b.html

This is how it's done with the 2013 Escape ( not a safe feature - should be on HID HUD):

Battery was low,so I put in a new battery. Start the car and press on the pedal and it wont rev at all. Wrench light is on.

Called Ford and they told me to unplug battery and turn lights on.(drain system of electricity, possible surge?) Plugged the battery in again and same thing.

Dont know what else to do. any suggestions would be helpful. Thanxs Beets

"I had the same problem. I have a 2008 Ford Fusion. i found the answer on a F150 Forum site. Instead of turning the car on like normal - turn the key on until you get all of the idiot lights to come on without the car starting. Leave it on for 25 to 30 seconds and then start the car. It worked like a champ. Drive the car a little hard for a day or so to let the computer system relearn your driving. Cheers! :spiteful:"

- by scooter78

See the original thread here ( also the 'relearning' steps for the car you might want to go through) :

http://www.fordfusio...-issue/?p=46799

Is FWD vs. AWD relevant to hydroplaning?

 

I did a quick google search and one of the posts suggested that AWD was worse in this regard.

 

Could that be true?

 

All thoughts welcome,

Thx

Mike

The answer is no. But why do some people think so?

I think is from the people who had bad experiences with the 'old' slip and grip AWD systems which quite often don't transfer power/torque between the axles smoothly. Actually, it was more like a jolt - hence, the term 'spider bite' (must be startling).

Now imagine the chain of events that follow while driving at say 60 mph when the car starts hydroplaning !

I am having similar issues with my 2007 ford fusion se that has 98k miles. I replaced my battery and then turned my car on only to find my car barely starting, check engine light on, and my wrench light on. I pushed on the gas and noticed that my car would not rev over 1 rpm. I see there are many posts with throttle body issues, but has anyone noticed this occuring due to a battery change? Car is in very good condition and very well maintained. Trying to find some answers please :-)

"I had the same problem. I have a 2008 Ford Fusion. i found the answer on a F150 Forum site. Instead of turning the car on like normal - turn the key on until you get all of the idiot lights to come on without the car starting. Leave it on for 25 to 30 seconds and then start the car. It worked like a champ. Drive the car a little hard for a day or so to let the computer system relearn your driving. Cheers! :spiteful:"

- by scooter78

See the original thread here ( also the 'relearning' steps for the car you might want to go through) :

http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/3933-car-will-not-accelerate-after-battery-issue/?p=46799

I am having similar issues with my 2007 ford fusion se that has 98k miles. I replaced my battery and then turned my car on only to find my car barely starting, check engine light on, and my wrench light on. I pushed on the gas and noticed that my car would not rev over 1 rpm. I see there are many posts with throttle body issues, but has anyone noticed this occuring due to a battery change? Car is in very good condition and very well maintained. Trying to find some answers please :-)

With the car off, disconnect the battery ground cable (-) from the battery (careful !) and wait for about 10 minutes ( and then reconnect of course) . While waiting, check to make sure you did not knock connection(s) out of place when you were replacing the battery.

See post #67.

The Fusions have AWD, not 4WD. The above is referring to the case of the typical truck that has selectable 2WD/4WD (I'm not sure who would leave their truck in 4WD on the highway since it will stress the drivetrain). However it was true that they had to test AWD vehicles with only one axle in the past (by disconnecting the drive shafts), but the decrease in driveline losses was compensated for in the calculations (so the fuel economy ratings are still accurate). Now they have a dual roller dyno so they can test AWD vehicles properly (not sure if they tested the Fusion AWD on it or not). The AWD system would be mostly FWD during the EPA test cycles anyway.

Even if the AWD Fusion was tested by the EPA, were they using dual roller dyno then?

The original Fusion AWD program (2007/8) was tuned for traction and handling mainly by the use of torque vectoring. The 'stop and go' test cycles ( especially the cold temperature test) is what really should hurt the earlier AWD Fusions' fuel economy.

The AWD Fusions actually did really well in actual driving conditions.

^^I'm not sure if you were posting that EPA stuff in reply to my posting, but I know there are several variables that affect MPGs, it's not rocket science. I could care less about mpgs, I was just posting what my car gets based on the conditions I drive. I was on the F150 forums alot before this and of course the guys who always posted great mpgs were "flatlanders"...

I do mind about the fuel economy but I am also willing to pay a few hundred dollars more for gas per year simply for the better driving performances.

From the EPA ...

Driving on hilly or mountainous terrain or on unpaved roads can reduce fuel economy. The EPA test assumes vehicles operate on flat ground.

Using 4-wheel drive reduces fuel economy. Four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in 2-wheel drive. Engaging all four wheels makes the engine work harder and increases transfer case and differential losses.

- http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/factors.shtml

The EPA fuel economy tests use 100 percent gasoline, and no adjustments are made to account for ethanol. Most conventional vehicles using E10 (10 percent ethanol) will experience a 3 to 4 percent reduction in fuel economy.

- http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/info.shtml

And if the drive is in freezing temperatures for 'short' durations (< 10 minutes), a 20% reduction in fuel economy is expected.

What how are you all getting such good fuel economy. I only get 14mpg. I have a 2007 Ford Fusion SEL V6 AWD. I went to Ford and they said well there are no check engine lights on dash so there is nothing they can do. They want me to record the next time i put gas in the tank and how many kms it gets me, it pisses me off I told them it costs me $70 a week in gas and that gets me 186 miles.

1ofakindgt's numbers ( not the 'Amsoil' #s) can easily be achieved in the summer with the 2007 AWD 16" wheel/tire setup.

To get 14 US MPG ( ~17 L/100 km !) , you must be driving on very hilly terrains ( or idling a lot along with short drives in freezing temperatures).

Try have the engine warmed up to normal operating temperature and while driving on a relatively flat expressway, reset the mileage reading. Continue to drive for 5-10 km and you should get 8.5 L/100km (27 US MPG) easily.

The V6 3.0 engine is about 150 lbs heavier than the I4 ! However, the V6 3.0 AWD (07-12) has a lower center of gravity ( lower than the BMW3 xi, Audi4 awd, Subaru Impreza/Legacy, Acura TL/RL awd )

I dont know if different states run different warranty laws/regulations or what, but I had my TB replaced at 40k under an emissions warranty. After the replacement of the TB my shifts were much smoother for sure, there were no more pauses. However, when I first start the car sometimes, the first time going through the gears the car shifts from 3k rpms down to about 1.5 and sometimes that feels like a strong shift; usually between 1-2. It seems only to happen when I am light on the throttle just getting going. My old car was a standard and I use to feel a strong shift all the time so I assume it cant be that bad...

From the US Warranty Guide (2010 Fusion Owner Information):

Page 18

EMISSIONS DEFECT WARRANTY COVERAGE

During the warranty coverage period, Ford Motor Company warrants

that:

• your vehicle or engine is designed, built, and equipped to meet - at

the time it is sold - the emissions regulations of the U.S.

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

• your vehicle or engine is free from emission-related defects in

factory-supplied materials or workmanship, which are defects that

could prevent the vehicle or engine from conforming with applicable

EPA regulations.

• you will not be charged for diagnosis, repair, replacement, or

adjustment of parts containing an emissions-related defect. Applicable

parts are listed under

What is Covered? on pages 20-21.

The warranty coverage period for:

•Passenger cars, light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up to 8,500

pounds GVWR)

— 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic

converters, electronic engine control unit (ECU), transmission control

module (TCM), and any other onboard emissions diagnostic module.

— 3 years or 36,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other

covered parts.

• Heavy duty vehicles (applies to trucks over 8,500 pounds GVWR up to

19,500 pounds GVWR)

— 5 years or 50,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all covered

parts.

See WHAT IS COVERED for list of covered parts.

Page 19

EMISSIONS PERFORMANCE WARRANTY COVERAGE

Under Emissions Performance Warranty Coverage, Ford Motor Company

will repair, replace, or adjust - with no charge for labor, diagnosis, or parts -

any emissions control device or system, if you meet all of the following

conditions:

• You have maintained and operated your vehicle according to the

instructions on proper care in the Owner Guide, the Scheduled

Maintenance Guide, and this booklet.

• Your vehicle fails to conform, during the warranty coverage period, to

the applicable national EPA standards, as determined by an EPA

approved inspection and maintenance program.

• You are subject to a penalty or sanction under local, state, or federal law

because your vehicle has failed to conform to the emissions standards.

(A penalty or sanction can include being denied the right to use your

vehicle.)

• Your vehicle has not been tampered with, misused, or abused.

The warranty coverage period for:

• Passenger cars, light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up to 8,500

pounds GVWR)

— 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic

converter, electronic emission control unit (ECU), transmission control

module (TCM), and any other onboard emissions diagnostic module

— 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other

covered parts.

• Heavy duty vehicles (applies to trucks over 8,500 pounds GVWR up to

19,500 pounds GVWR)

— 5 years or 50,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all covered

parts.

See WHAT IS COVERED for list of covered parts.

Note that the warranty period begins on the

Warranty Start Date as

specified on page 2 of this booklet.

Well after about 200 miles after the reset my average mpg is at 17. This car has only been driven with one person in it at a time as well. Either the guage is way off or some other issue is going on. I guess actually counting the miles is the next step. They might as well put V8's in them lol.

Does not mean/tell us much.

For example , I reset the mileage and the average speed readings then drove my warmed up 2007 AWD Fusion SE (still on all original factory equipements minus the plastic ring in the shifter, lol ) on a relatively flat expressway for about 30 miles at an average speed of 65 mph in windless condition. The mileage ....

31 US MPG

Thanks for the input TT, I only buy from reputable places/sellers. I will look around and find mine. It's an easy fix.. As soon as I get enough $ from my second job, it's getting swapped...

Not really " a fix" because the problem seems to be a design flaw.

Yes ! THANK YOU ! The adjustment screws are there contrary to the nay sayings of the Ford Service Department Tech and Manager where I purchased the car even now after I just told them I made the adjustment. As a matter of fact I'm not sure who is more of an idiot, me for not looking or them for not knowing, DUH !

 

Thanks again.

Dealers only go by manufacturers' specs. I think this dealer just don't want to associate with you in adjusting the lights "higher" ( it's assumed you will do that). If the projectors are biased downwards, it's better to use the regular 55 watt bulbs with the projectors raised. At night, it's not how clearly you can see but how much you can see.

Also, last year it was doing it but this year there's a squeaking sound inside/under the steering wheel when I make a right turn. Could it be my rack and pinion? If so, how much does it cost to repair it? Also, why does it only do it when the outside temperature is cold?

The issue you are having with the car may (very likely!) fall under TSB 07-18-6 SEPTEMBER 2007 Drivetrain - Front Axle Clicking/Ratcheting Noises ( replace front CV shafts). Ford Fusion TSB 07-18-6 should be covered under the 2007 Powertrain Coverage ( 5 years or 60 000 miles, whichever occurs first for all 2007 Fusion/Milan models).

Hello All,

 

Just wanted to say hi, I just ordered for my wife a new 2012 Ford Fusion SEL AWD, will be are first new Ford. Test drove quite a few cars, but there were very few that offered AWD which was a priority moving into a strong snowbelt. I had to give up my 2009 Pontiac G8 GT since it is not a great car in the snow, going to miss it has been a great car.

I do have one quick question, we ordered the car with factory remote start, does anyone know if that will come built into the key or will be a separate key fob? Also how long has the ordering process been taking lately, dealership said at least 6 weeks going to be hard, hoping to get the car before the roads get to bad.

You have no idea what you are getting into. Do you, 'josh_4184' ? You and your wife will be pleasantly surprised. Hint: the only thing you will likely miss ( that is under optimal road condition) is the 100 hp. ... caring husband rewarded!

Your Fusion's front suspension system ( rear is "twisted blade" multi-link independent type in the background of the picture):

Your AWD preview ( the 2010+ models include lateral/yawl "Stability Control"):

Oh ... one more thing, about your Duratec 30 engine:

The primary engineering input came from Porsche, who were developing a similar V6 before selling the engineering to Ford, and Cosworth, who helped with cylinder head manufacturing

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Mondeo_V6_engine

Hello All!

 

I just signed up to the forum. Hoping to get a lot of use out of it in the future! The Ford Fusion is one phenominal vehicle and it seems like there are a lot of others who would agree with me. I hope to have pics up soon but haven't had a chance yet.

 

I just purchased a 2010 Ford Fusion SEL from the USA. Drove it back and so far it's been great. I'm just wondering if anyone knows of a way to change the odometer, fuel economy info, temperature displays to Canadian without going to the dealer and getting hosed for hours of "labour" on the laptop they have to hook up? If they didn't try and hose me because it's a US car and they didn't get my business I would go to them but I'm not interested in spending 500 plus for a fix that involves 15 minutes and a few key strokes to change. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

The instruction is in the Owner's Manual (page 23 for 2010 models? ). Go to ... Message Center ... - Units(English/Metric). Note: English = Imperial (USA) and Canadian would be under "Metric"

The 2010 Owner's Manual ... click on link to look it up .... http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/SPubs/default.asp?pageid=oghome&gutsid=spubs_serv_all_new&TYPE=OWNERGUIDE&menuIndex1=17

I am considering buying a new Ford Fusion and I was wondering how they are in winter conditions. Where I live, we tend to get a lot of snow and ice.

Get the SEL ( better balance) AWD version and downsize the tires to 205-60-16 (winter or all season, see tirerack.com) with light weight wheels.

Take a look at the Suzuki Kizashi AWD and the Subaru Legacy AWD for similar type of vehicles comparison.

When topped up, make sure the cooled coolant is at the yellow "full" line. How did you "bred" the coolant lines?

I had this issue with my 2007 Fusion (3L) two years ago. Even though I can see the coolant in the pressurized coolant reservor, I ended up putting in an additional quart (1L) of mixed coolant.