TanK203

Here's a question for you then, what about length of time between oil changes. My wife's car (Mazda 3) isn't driven very often (about 4K miles a year). So how often should the oil be changed? Once a year?

It's a new ground strap that needs to be installed. So Ford has to do it. Do you have records of complaining of this issue prior to 32K miles? Because i had 42K when i found the TSB number, and they didnt want to cover it, but I had records with Ford that it had been checked for this issue and they were unable to replicate. I called corporate and they covered the part and labor. they could not guarentee that would fix the issue because they could not replicate it, however since they fixed it 6 months ago, it has not been an issue at all.

I had this problem since like 2 months after purchasing the car. I brought it in time and time again to fix it and they could never replicate the issue. When I did the research myself I came across that TSB and brought it up to the dealership. They fought with me about it a little but I pushed and eventually called corporate to have them covere it (since I was slightly outside my 36K warranty, but had records of complaining of this issue since 4K miles) Corporate covered it and it has not been an issue since it was fixed which was about 6 months ago.

Quick slightly off topic question. I'm planning on doing a coolant flush myself, and was curious if the bleeder valve really needed to be open. I read in another post that if you just let the engine run for a while with the radiator cap off, it would get rid of all the air. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for your insight on this everyone. I just think its nuts that these coils blow. I am fighting with the dealership about it, and will keep you all posted. For now the car is running which is what is important.

I just took my blower out yesterday for this issue. The easiest way i found to get to the blower was to remove the glovebox. To do this, open your glovebox and remove any items inside of it (they will fall out later if you dont). Then, push the walls of the glovebox inward and the glovebox will open more. On the right side you will see a little string connected to the glovebox, this makes it open dramatically, but must be disconnected in order to open the glovebox further. Once the string is disconnected, allow the glovebox to open all the way till it touches the floorboard. Then you will be able to pull the glovebox towards you and it will pop out of the dash. Once I did that, i was able to see the screws and terminal connection easier and remove the blower without issue. I then brought the blower inside my apt and opened it up. There are three screws on the bottom of the blower and the plastic piece is held by a clip on the side, be sure to unclip that before opening. Once the plastic cover is off, you will see a metal cover with 2 screws. Remove those two screws and carefully remove the metal cover. It may be difficult at first because of the magnets, but it should come off nicely. Now for the tricky part, remove the plastic round piece in the middle, but mind the washer on top and remember to put everything back in the proper order. Once the round plastic piece is removed, you will be able to remove the orange plastic piece that holds the brushes for the DC motor. This is where all that grime and "dirt" is coming from. Carefully remove the piece by pushing the brushes outward, away from the motor coil and slowly lift above the engine spindle. Once you have passed the spindle, carefully allow the brushes to come out of their holder, but be sure to catch the springs. I used rubbing alcohol and Q-Tips to clean all the parts with. Clean the motor coil, the brushes, and all dirty parts. Once clean, put everything back together very carefully, and once completely assembled, you should be able to spin the blower and it should spin freely without any grinding noise. Install the blower back into your car (test that it is working and no longer making anymore noise), put the glovebox back on, and you are all set. Total time, about an hour. Hope this helps! :-)

Any chance you have any more information on those reports you mentioned? Also, can someone tell me what a PCM and a COP is? (sorry)

I didn't know there was an 8/80K warranty... I will have to look into this.. Thanks for the help!

Read in another thread that when they changed the battery, there was a problem with the idle even tho the proper proceedure to "learn" these settings was followed, it still had issues. What fixed his issue was when he used a pocket scanner, it found 2 error codes that when cleared, instantly resolved his idling issues. Worth a shot if it comes up again.

So i have a 2010 Fusion SE with 61.5K miles on it and have now had 2 ignition coils replaced on this engine. 8 Months ago I complained about some stuttering issues when climbing grades at lower RPMs, and brought it in for warranty service. At that time they said the issue was a bad spark plug and ignition coil on the number 2 cylinder and replaced them. Last week when climbing another hill I lost all power and barely was able to make it up the hill. When I pulled into my driveway, my engine was shaking heavily and the car was making horrible noises. I had it towed to a nearby Ford dealership fearing the worst, and was told it was the number 1 ignition coil and they replaced all 4 spark plugs. And since I was 1,460 miles over warranty, I was stuck with a $465 bill. If I had known it was just an ignition coil, I would have replaced it myself, or brought it into a local repair shop, but I feared it was something much worse and that I would have to fight for the engine to be replaced or something, so I brought it to Ford. So my question is this, has anyone else had any of their ignition coils go? Seems odd that I would have 2 go within 8 months. I'm 2 out of 4, and I will most likely just replace the other 2 on my own so I don't get stuck on the highway on my way to work in a snowstorm.