NCStatePack

Dealer quoted me about 2960 to change water pump and.... - Valve cover gaskets - Intake manifold seal - Crank seal - Various fluids to be replaced when the engine is removed I'm not sure that the above parts are even leaking, and I plan on asking them to show me the leak. I imagine the water pump replacement would be $2100 to start with, so the other 800 is all in the random gaskets. I question whether the labor should really be that high for the gaskets and seals since the engine will already be out of the car, but anyways. What are you guys' thoughts on changing out all those other gaskets at this time? I'm not sold on those gaskets/seals actually leaking, since this fluid leak (coolant and oil) started at about the same time, but if they can show me the leak point then of course I'd change them too.

Hi all, My Fusion sport recently started leaking both oil AND coolant at the same time (~105k miles). The leaks are splattering around the entire timing cover area, so it's hard to tell where they start. My gut tells me the coolant is coming from the water pump, but I can't explain the oil. There is a noticeable whine coming from the engine while idling, and I'm losing about a 1/2 gallon of anti-freeze every day. Are there any design quirks about this engine that might cause oil to come out of a bad water pump? It is strange to me because prior to last week I had zero fluid leaks coming from this thing and now it saturates the driveway. Btw, my local dealer estimates 2100 big ones to replace the water pump

Thanks for the reply. I reckon I will have to eat this one at a repair shop, since it sounds like a more labor-intensive job than my DIY prowess can handle.

So I "almost" got the bolster panel removed, though I haven't quite figured out the spring-loaded latch which is still hanging onto the top on the panel. Once that's done, does anyone have any tips on removing the parcel tray in order to access the speaker? I figure I can do a circuit test to see in there's a signal being sent to the speaker (if so then I'll know the speaker's bad). Thanks!

Late last year I went to use my sunroof (to open completely) when I heard a loud "pop" followed by the sunroof not retracting. Short of forking over the ~$1000 it will cost to diagnose and fix the problem, I was wondering if anyone on here has had a similar issue. I see many issues with the sunroof not closing, but mine is the opposite. What I know so far: Reaching up into the track area, behind the rubber debris guard on the driver's side, I discovered plastic chunks the size of small pebble When trying to retract the sunroof into the headliner, it will not move When trying to raise the sunroof, one side (the passenger side) will raise completely while the other sits flush with the roof of the car Any suggestions on what could be wrong or similar experiences you'd like to share? Thanks!

Noel, What did the dealer report as your issue? I am having the same issue on my 2010 Fusion (static and garbled tone in speaker, leading to error code) and the dealer will run a $117 diagnostic on it to find the error, which I would love to avoid if I can take a swing at a cheaper part to fix it. Thanks