wjcollier07

I have no KR monitoring. None of the scantools I have access to seem to be advanced enough. I finally got trans temp on my ScanGauge II, but only because I tried the half dozen codes to get it to work, but haven't seen any codes on that device for KR. Something about load, specifically, is precisely what I've been thinking this whole time too. I haven't done a test with the Lucas recently because it's so difficult to be definitive about the how much better or worse it really is. The funny thing is, a couple of years ago is when I discovered the Lucas thing making such a difference with this car, and I used to add it periodically because it seemed to add more power, long before this strange jerking issue came about. When I did notice the difference in the jerking, in relation to Lucas, the jerking was much less severe. I don't expect the Lucas to make anywhere near as much of a difference as it did before. Also, I used to just squirt it in from the large quart bottle, but have since developed a much more measurable way of doing it, so I'm not even sure how much I was putting in when I was noticing it "seeming more powerful". I'm going to try running without the EGR plugged in first, to see if it's EGR related, and then once that changes nothing, I'll try out your recommendation of trying again on Lucas. My scantool doesn't seem to tell me anything about spark duration. The only thing I could see are the Mode 6 parameters, with monitoring for misfires on each cylinder, which seemed to uncover nothing. https://goo.gl/photos/kMpCB8LXWcY8JKwN9 There are a few screenshots from when I did that a while back.

Nope. FWD. Good information though.

Replaced MAP sensor. New one seems more accurate. Slightly broader readings than original sensor. Did not fix stumble with A/C on. Stumble is still very much present. I noticed today that it was actually a little worse than it has been, even under the same outside temperatures with A/C on. The only difference was that it was extremely humid today, due to a massive low pressure system sitting over us today. The humidity could be unrelated, but the lower atmospheric pressure, which seems sort of ridiculous, when you consider what a small change we're talking about, seems like it made it worse. So. What next?

It would be, yes. That's perfect, it solidified my suspicion that the MAP sensor is the direct reporter for the PCM to calculate EGR flow. When watching the MAP readings in the scantool video I made, I noticed that MAP was spiking to full atmospheric pressure under some conditions, then upon further analysis, I realized that the only time when the ignition advance goes to zero or negative is when the MAP sensor is reporting 14.5 PSI, causing the calculated load to shoot to 100%. I would understand MAP going to atmospheric under high throttle conditions, as would be normal, however, I was noting 14.5 PSI when TPS was reporting as low as 21.2%, which actually has a base number of ~17% when idling. Something doesn't seem right there. A new map sensor sure would be an easy fix....considering that replacing it is only slightly more difficult than adding washer fluid.

SO, the feeling I was noting was due to the A/C compressor cycling. However, with a significant amount of additional research done this week, I'm narrowing the cause down to something related to the EGR. This conclusion is solely based on the frequent failures of the DPFE sensor on older duratecs, 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder alike. This sensor however, does not seem to exist on this generation of Duratec 30, and so I'm still working on narrowing down where the PCM is getting its EGR flow feedback information. Any help on that would be great.

I read many great things about it, and so I bought it for my 2011 Ingot Silver Fusion, but the car was totaled before I even got a chance to open the box. You don't happen to have a silver Fusion do you?

I experienced this excessive torque steer while driving a 2013 Titanium with the stock goodyear eagle tires on it for about a week. I did not have this issue with the smaller/narrower michelin 235/50R17 equipped 2014 SE I drove for about a week a year after that, nor the 2016 SE that I drove for a weekend this past summer. I'd attribute it to being a tire size or tire type issue, potentially, if you've got a titanium that is. If not, then maybe you're not used to torque steer? also, make sure they fix that steering wheel issue. that's crazy for them to not be test driving cars after alignments.

I'm very sorry about the delay in response! I've been trying to tackle this problem when I have time. I narrowed down several aspects of the issue to being possibly transmission related, to which I found just seemed to be the fluid being worn in some way (even though it was only 12k mile old fluid). Before I found that out however, I replaced all 6 coils and all 6 spark plugs, again, even though I had just done those about 40k miles before. The change of the plugs and coils caused no significant change once the PCM had a chance to relearn. The replacement of the trans fluid significantly improved the acceleration smoothness, with only a few blips here and there. I've been driving it like this now for about 3000 miles since I finished that whole session of ATF change and tune up, it continues to be better, but not "good". I realized that I had an issue with acceleration, and because it was worst under light acceleration, I wasn't focusing on the other times when it blipped (misfired). Today, I was cruising on the highway at right about 75 mph, cruise set, perfectly flat road, and I'm noticing it blipping every 5-10 seconds. Nothing major, just sort of a imperfect sort of annoyance. I don't get on the highway much, I'm usually driving in an extra-urban setting. I got out my scantool, set it up next to the gauges as I'm cruising, and just watched it. I noticed something I wasn't even putting together before that when I'm cruising and everything is smooth as ice, I'm sitting at about 40-41 degrees of ignition advance, and every time it blips with a single misfire, that drops to about 35-37 degrees, sometimes as low as 32, and then recovers back to 40-41 in a brief period. So it actually IS something engine related, and I'm really at a loss since I've replaced everything I can within reason! Stats: 145k miles replaced oxygen sensors (both upstream) with factory NTK sensors earlier this year replaced spark plugs at 104k with factory FoMoCo plugs replaced spark plugs again with NGK Iridium plugs at 142k (actually much better fuel economy since this change) replaced all 6 ignition coils at 142k, Delphi branded coils (they were the OEM manufacturer of the FoMoCo coils, in case anyone is wondering why) replaced transmission fluid at 142k (Mobil 3309) thoroughly cleaned throttle body while replacing ignition components at 142k every other maintenance item seems to be up to date, including small things like the engine air filter acceleration under 3/4 to full throttle is VERY strong for this engine series. With the exceptions of the Aisin trans having its odd idiosyncrasies every now and again, during acceleration and whatnot, it feels and sounds like a much newer car than it is. as the maintenance record indicates, I'm very willing to comprehensively care for this car, I just want to figure out this strange issue! Also, reference these threads, since these similarly describe the issue as well. I actually posted about this issue when I owned my 2011, and even though that issue was different in some ways, it's still very similar, which leads me to believe that it's something inherent to the duratec engine series? http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/13638-2008-fusion-v6-se-stuttering-while-driving/ http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/9207-bucking-at-constant-highway-speeds-2012-sel/ Sorta worries me about reports that technicians have replaced whole bunches of parts on people's cars trying to figure these kinds of issues out!

So, the '07 has a somewhat minor issue. Under light acceleration, it stumbles, especially right around 1500 RPM. During this period of time, all timing advance is pulled, frequently going into KR by as much as 5 degrees. Looking at the fuel trims, bank 2 typically sits at about twice the percentage as bank 1. These numbers aren't major, only between 2-6% on bank 2, and 1-2.5% on bank 1, but they're almost always positive, nonetheless. I've monitored linear consistency on throttle position readings, MAF readings, IAT readings and MAP readings, and everything seems normal and consistent. The only thing I saw it do a couple times out of the ordinary was pop out of closed loop, and then back into closed loop in under 3 seconds (only did it a couple times in 30 minutes of driving) Interestingly, I've found that Lucas fuel treatment abates the severity of the stumbling by quite a large degree. This is the first time I've ever actually thought about pulling data on it, but it is currently running Lucas. I went without Lucas for about the past year (under 10k miles) and the stumbling started to get really bad. This is the first time where running the Lucas didn't completely solve the issues. Right when I got the car in late 2013, at 104k, I did plugs and PCV, so I have no reference on whether this was a preexisting condition before I took the intake plenum off. (Yes, of course I used new gaskets) I should also note that I used the exact OEM plugs and PCV. Here's a 12 minute video of some extra-urban driving to show the major timing pull it does under certain conditions, as well as the fact that it shows ZERO signs of issues during relatively heavy acceleration and not a single hiccup at highway speeds. IAT was a relatively consistent 90-100 degrees F, high humidity, sea level. 142k miles, all maintenance is current. Has run nothing but top tier fuel since 104k miles, and has had a bottle of Techron concentrate in the tank about every 10k miles. So, what am I missing?

Try premium fuel. I've been chasing mine for so long until recently when I changed out the transmission fluid to Redline D6 and added LubeGard Red, which helped the shudder slightly, but only today have I noticed any significant difference with a full tank of 93 octane. I'm still in the early stages on anything definitive, but try it for a few tanks, see if it works!

I've been thinking about replacing one of my cars with a FFH. I can't imagine that the brakes would wear quicker than they do on a gas Fusion. I'm a little confused as far as brakes go on my '11. At 81,200 miles, my brakes are still easily 40% or so, front and rear. All highway driving you say? Not really. Granted, I do use the highway quite frequently, but when I drive spiritedly, you can bet that those brakes are getting heavily used. Kudos to Ford on using a great, long lasting ceramic compound that seems to last forever. My only complaint is that the actual braking torque available is quite lame at the limit. Putting the brake pedal to the floor at highway speed yields little more than a 'very quick' stop, definitely short of what I'd expect for panic stop conditions.

Are you 100% sure it's the transmission? A clicking or popping noise could be a lot of things, but transmission would be my last assumption. The TF-80SC definitely has the tendency to whine loudly, as does the 6F35 for that matter, but clicking or popping would seem to yield some sort of drivability issue. My '07 has some very undesirable 1-2 shifting (even with new fluid and the TSB software update) but it's perfectly quiet. I'm assuming you've checked motor mounts, fluid levels, etc?

I'm definitely in the same boat. Both of my 3.0 fusions get dismal fuel economy. I drive the '11 on 70% highway and I still average 20 mpg. I've been driving the '07 to work (70% highway) for the past week and it's been getting about 21 mpg or so...not amazing. Both have gotten new spark plugs, both have up to date perfect maintenance, fluids, air pressure, Michelins, perfect alignment, 0W20 oil etc etc.

I've been experiencing this issue since I got my '11 at 35k. 2 years later, just turned over 80,000 today and the stumbling has only gotten worse. It feels like what you'd expect to be a bad misfire or a failed/failing ignition coil. If you're pulling up a long grade and holding a gear near the peak torque point, the stumble is bad enough where you can watch the tachometer shake right along with it. To address the issue, I've already changed the plugs (with OEM, of course), I always run TopTier fuel, I run Fuel System Cleaner (PEA based) every 6 months and run Amsoil Signature. I couldn't possibly maintain the car any more impeccably. I even change the ATF every 30-40k miles (twice since I bought the car). In addition to that, my throttle body failed about a year ago, and was replaced by the dealer (prior to it being a CSP) With all of the different conditions I've driven the car in, extremely high heat, extreme cold, flat high speed highway, mountain roads to very high altitude, snow, ice, etc. (anything you can do with a sedan in the continental 48), I'm beginning to think it's not the engine at all, and it's actually the transmission. I can't really explain why, but I do know that my '07 (with the AWF21) is SO smooth and so perfect compared to the bumbling stumbling '11. While I understand there is a substantial difference in the engine, which is what gives the newer generation an extra kick in the horsepower dept, I can't see how there doesn't seem to be the same issue with the 3.5 cyclone (even though that's also a very different engine, it shares many of the same top end components as the duratec 30 in its latest generation. Please tell me there's a light at the end of this tunnel. It's getting worse, I'm getting very irritated by it, and I plan to have the vehicle for another 4 years, or until about 140,000 miles (can't wait to see how bad it'll be by that point)

I've been thinking about those as well. I'm a little apprehensive about them as I've heard they ride a little hard. I'm all about wet traction, which I know they are more than top tier, but ride quality is a close second. I know they do quiet and smooth well, but I'd like those attributes to equal the tire's ability to absorb shock. I'm going into a set of tires for each car in the next few months. I haven't yet decided if they're both getting the same, or maybe go for some variety. My choices are: 1. Pirelli Cinturato P7 Plus 2. Michelin Primacy MXM4 3. Continental PureContact 4. Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3 I'm waiting for more reviews to show up on the Pirelli and the A/S3. I'm leaning toward the Pirellis and the Continentals for their longer treadlife as the higher speed rated Michelins both have a 45k, not to mention they're generally a lower price. I think the PureContacts are a bit rough like the A/S3s though...so there's that.

I'm not necessarily seeing it as a complete deal breaker...especially considering my other options in this price range that would be equally reliable would involve an Accord or Camry. Which...wouldn't be my desire. It's more confusing to me than anything....it not being a standard option on a car with a base trim price north of $20k in the year 2006. Case and point of my confusion, one of my past cars...a '93 Bonneville SE (Base trim) came standard with 3 channel ABS and traction control. A decade and a half later...Ford is running a bit behind. I definitely remember ABS effectiveness argument continuing up to the very recent past. If it weren't for the gov requiring all passenger vehicles to have stability/abs by '12, I'm sure it'd still be something of a live topic. It just comes down to having excellent tires and a skilled defensive driver I suppose.

I feel like this is impossible. A couple times since I got the car back in November, I've been able to lock the brakes up toward the end of a hard, dry stop. I credited this back to it just being at a lower speed, and that possibly the ABS system wouldn't be as active toward the end of a stop... Then, last night, I'm looking at some specifications on the car and I see that ABS is listed as 'optional' for this year and trim, but I think, no way, I've got a fully optioned SEL! So, last place to look, I check my window sticker...which indicates '4-whl Disc Brakes', contrasting my '11's window sticker which says '4-whl Disc Brakes w/ ABS' Wow. This is highly disappointing. I honestly wouldn't have bought the car if I'd known it was missing ABS. It not having traction control was sort of a good giveaway, and something I shouldn't have ignored. The only thing remaining is that I have not actually gone looking to see if there is an ABS system installed on the car itself, and that when I look up the car's VIN on fordparts.com, it does list ABS wheel speed sensors and a module...but...its all very conflicting. Any thoughts on this?

I'm very curious of what my 6F35 is going to do to me in the next 20-25k miles. After the latest update (TSB 12-7-?) to the trans, its shift quality is multiple times better than when I first bought the car, but still leaves something to be desired. Because I'm SO high in mileage, I'm extremely out of warranty, and my extended warranty expires in 8k miles. I'm wondering if I should buy another extended warranty (assuming it's going to fail within the next year) or just save up and replace it *if* it fails. Some days it feels fine, other days, I swear it's going to give up on my way to work. I plan to keep the car for another 3 years, at least, so I know I'm buying a transmission, one way or another, at some point in time. The good thing is, I know that I don't baby this transmission, so it's not fragile necessarily, it's almost like they just self destruct at some point. It's amazing how hit or miss the longevity of the 6F35 is, but one thing is evidently clear, stay away from the 2010 MY. Mine was manufactured Fall 2010 IIRC, but no one really has enough info yet to say what the substantial changes are, besides updated software.

My 11 came with the Energy Saver A/S. I really liked that tire in most respects. They're very quiet, offer good ride quality, and excellent fuel economy. I'm more of a spirited driver, and demand the very best in wet conditions. After extensive research, (including the fact that I've been working in tire resale for multiple years now), I chose the Primacy MXM4. They're everything I could ever ask for, and then some. The only time they weren't amazing is when I drove through an insane snowstorm (Sandy, 2012) and the deep snow traction left something to be desired. The wet traction is INSANE and the dry grip is extremely taut, and breaks away very progressively. I put those on at 40k, and will be replacing them right around 80k. I maintain my tires to a very high level of perfection, but also put a large amount of stress on them, yet I'd be exceeding the mileage warranty on these tires if I was ok with the idea of going all the way to 2/32". If you're looking for an outstanding tire and don't mind changing them every 40k, go with the Primacy MXM4, if you want more longevity, go with the Energy Saver A/S, they're ridiculously long lasting. (Mine had 7/32" @ 40k miles) Now, for the '07, I got it with Continental ProContact EcoPlus tires already on it. They're fine....well rather, just ok. Pretty good wet traction over all...maybe I'd say above average...but they don't handle very well, and the dry traction is HORRIBLE. I literally locked up the brakes momentarily in the dry just coming to a hard stop at the top of a freeway offramp. In contrast, I've had my brake pedal rock solid against the firewall in the '11 with the MXM4s and my OEM brakes cannot exceed their grip, and only in the most unreasonable of stops can break them loose stopping in the rain. The '07 will be getting them when the Continentals wear out...unless Michelin comes up with something even more amazing in a GT Touring tire by then!

I actually just had that update done on my 07, it's an outstanding difference. I got the car with original ATF installed (or so it appeared), changed it with fresh T-IV, which definitely improved its function, but the software finished it off. They also flashed an update to the ECM as well. It literally drives like a different car...simply amazing. The TF-81SC is an excellent unit (far exceeding my 6F35), but it does have some extremely sensitive solenoids in the VB. Frequent fluid changes are key to long transmission life! Since you only get 3 qts of over 9 qts out at every drain, I think I'll be doing one drain every 15k miles, even though I have a warranty on it until 200k miles.

Another part of thin oil has to do with how the VVT system was designed. For VVT solenoids that are oil pressure driven, they sometimes require a thinner oil to operate correctly. In addition, if you've ever seen inside of a modern engine that is 0W20 or 5W20 spec'ed, you'll see extremely small oil passages and jets that, if you put too thick of an oil in, wouldn't even come close to pumping an adequate amount of oil. With all of the research I've done on oil, both of my duratecs, which both obviously call for 5W20, I have 0W20 installed in both. PP in the 07 and ASM in the 11. It also could be placebo....but I really notice how much more willing the engine is to spin higher with a good oil in the crankcase.

It would seem that the SJB in this car would be more than capable of handling a remote start operation, it sounds more like they just weren't interested in developing the software feature for that module. Anyways. Just because I'm curious about at least upgrading the key to the newer style 4 button, I'll lay out the FCC IDs I have. 5 Button Remote: OUCD6000022 4 Button Remote: CWTWB1U793 I'm actually somewhat confident there must be a possible link between these two as a possibility. The Ford Accessories bi-directional kit claims to be compatible with ESCAPE HYBRID 2010 2011 2012 ESCAPE 2010 2011 2012 FLEX 2010 2011 2012 FOCUS 2010 2011 FUSION 2011 2012 MUSTANG 2011 2012 2013 2014 TAURUS 2010 2011 2012 This creates a crossing of the '12 Taurus, '12 Flex & interestingly, not the explorer (even though that 5-button key is supposedly compatible with that) The PATS interface box (8L3Z-19G365-BA), which is a portion of the RS kit, can be had alone for a ridiculously low price. Assuming that the link is possible between the 5 button and this module, it makes sense to purchase it separately....but in the case of it being not possible, the kit with the dedicated remote provides a worst case scenario fallback, but at $200-275 more to gamble with. I'm still looking for the FCC ID for the RS kit remote.

Ok, I want to add remote start to my 2011 SEL. I want to do this without adding additional crap to my keychain. I found that the only 5 button key is one for the Taurus. P/N 164-R8000 http://www.autotransponder.com/2012_ford_taurus_80_bit_remote_head_key_5_button_with_remote_start That has the same transponder as my key, but I fear the key might not be the same for the locks. I want to install a factory remote start system, nothing aftermarket. I found AG1Z-19G364-A-F12 http://www.partscheap.com/2011-2012-Ford-Fusion-Remote-Start-Systems-p/ag1z-19g364-a-f12.htm That kit appears to come with a remote(s), and a rather large one at that. I see it has additional 2-way functions, which makes me think the system might not respond to a regular key's remote frequency. Any Ford professionals that can chime in on this one? On a side note, I only have one key for my car currently, and I really need to get at least one more, so I figure it's a good excuse for a functional upgrade if I can make it work. I'm attracted to using the new style key, which I've learned is nearly identical in every other way besides appearance. Thanks!

Wow...glad someone dug up this thread. That looks really clean. I wonder how mine would look paint matched silver. The chrome grille is going to get really discolored and flaky one day soon...I know I've got to do something with it, short of replacing it that is.

Big Jim beat me to it. You need to scan in the alignment spec sheet that the shop gave you, or at minimum, post the numbers from it. Something doesn't sound right since the Fusion has a significantly more adjustable rear end than most mid-size FWD cars out there. The only gripe I have is how much camber the factory specs ask for. I've got my rear end set at about -1.5 on both rears for the moment...which is probably going to consume my tires, but that's alright...worth it for the additional handling.