DocPFFP

VERY close to my 2012 Sport pricing.

Just took mine from DC to Michigan and back. 2012 Sport FWD, 87 octane, A/C on, cruise at 73-74-ish most of the way. Average 29.6, bumped the MTE up to 482.

Just finished reprogramming mine using BreakfastPirate's instructions - props, mate. So, lessons learned on my 2012 Sport with RMST (one-button), no nav, 402 package: 1. Don't erase the first bank by accident. Yeah, that was me. 2. If you do erase the first bank by accident, the positions/options for me were: - Tach Discovery doesn't work. Turn the tach off. - Key sensor is REVERSE - meaning, not the default. - Use the 8 second crank. What I gained from my suffering: - Double-click start - No MyKey shutoff - 15 minutes of run time All told, worth it.

Are you friggin' kidding me? WAY too many stupid-assed steps. Should be linked in through the stereo system.

Allen, Good to know. Thanks! You have any suggestions off the top of your head? I don't have a wiring diagram (or skinny arms) so I'd just as soon do this once and only once and in the least painful way possible.

I haven't done it yet, but am leaning towards a surface-mount cig adapter from the boat store (about $15) that would be on the floor of the compartment with 2 stinger screws - saves me from dropping a larger hole in there for a recessed mount and worrying about clearances behind the compartment. For the power I was leaning towards taking a Y off the back of a lamp or the stereo (switched). All I'm running is a Garmin, so I can't imagine the thing draws more than a few milliamps.

I'd buy the pliability for service access but only slightly. The heat, not so much - the lights won't build up much/any heat. And the pressure not at all, but good effort! I don't think the slots would do a thing for moisture builup if the housing itself is not air-tight. Why would they? The same hole the moisture entered through would be where it'd leave.

I'm getting between 407 and 420 on my 2012 FWD Sport.

I was looking in the trunk of my 2012 Sport with 402A and noticed there are vent-like slots cut in the carpet directly behind the tail lights. I stuck my fingers into one just to see if these were speakers of some sort (wasn't expecting them to be) and found un-loomed, unrestrained thin wires in there. This was a single pair as best I can tell, about 18g. Anyone know what the heck they're for?

I'd buy the buffering problem since it locks back on instantly when the sky's clear again. Do you happen to know if this is a SYNC software thing or a hardware limitation?

I had XM before I bought this car for 10 years. NEVER ha drop-outs like I have now. I'd LOVE to get a boosted antenna somehow.

My 96gb plays fine and fits in the compartment without any problem whatsoever. It recognizes "Play Artist <NAME>" and "Play Song <NAME>" reliably. It still comes up with an indexing error on "Play Genre <NAME>" commands every single time.

I didn't think it'd be that tough, I was just wondering if anyone had done it and had some words of wisdom. I'm planning on using a surface mounted jack on the sidewall of the compartment interior to avoid having to get good access to the backside of the compartment to tighten the thing down. If I can find a clean path from the sidewall to the fusebox will be the challenge, and then tracking down a keyed on open bay in the fuse box.

Would love to put a pair of AUX jacks, switched, in that useless little compartment to run my GPS from. Anyone ever do this?

Completely agree. I run my Garmin on one and wish it'd turn on/off with the car.