rhymobot

I brought it in to the mechanic and in order for them to diagnose the problem they had to put in a new slave cylinder. He confirmed that the slave was leaking. He says it drives now but the clutch itself isn't in the best shape. He said that could go at any time. I asked for a quote on that and said he'll get back to me. The cost for replacing the slave was $170 CAD.

Would hydraulic problem mean leaking of fluid somewhere? Forgot to mention, there was a leak spot on the ground under my engine bay that I noticed right after tow guy put it on the flatbed. And now in my driveway there is one but not under where I think the clutch cylinder or clutch it. It's closer to the front than that from what I can tell.

Hi. It was the same shop that did my previous clutch fixes. Independent. They have high ratings online and give off a real professional vibe. That being said, nobody is perfect. I will eventually bring to my current mechanic for his opinion. The previous one is 20 minutes away where I used to live.

I've had this Fusion from new and it has about 135k miles or 215k kms on it. I was driving and out of nowhere the clutch starts sticking to the floor and I have to pull it up with my toe. And I have a very hard time getting the shifter to shift to 1st or 2nd or whatever. Had to mess with it multiple times to get it in gear. I pulled over and I tested it and it got going again so I drove another 15 minutes including 3 stop lights and it worked fine but did feel a little odd. Then the 4th stop light it gets stuck to floor again and I'm in neutral and struggle to get it into 1st. Finally got it and pulled over and waited for CAA to tow to my house. Anyway, five weeks ago I foolishly put $2,700 of work into the car for all new brakes plus catalytic converter repair and left tie rod or something like that. Definitely worth more than the car but I justified it to myself by saying I hadn't changed anything on brakes for at least 5 years maybe 6 so it was easier to swallow as I had deferred that. Plus I hate car shopping and I'm super busy with new job that is more demanding than previous job and while it does pay more, my wife is on 1.5 year mat leave so 33% pay! Thought hopefully I get one more year out of this possibly two to be optimistic. Then I'll have a better understanding of my vehicle needs at that time. Plus I'm too busy for car shopping while I'm still learning the ropes of this job. I heard Fusions and Focuses had clutch problems from the tow guy. Well mine was replaced April 2014 and October 2017. Both times I could feel it starting to stick for days and brought it in for replacement. This time absolutely no warning, which I found to be really strange. If I scrap it I can get probably $250, but it would feel like a great shame considering it has brand new brakes and runs fine other than the clutch thing. Mind you, only a matter of time before something goes. Plus it is rusted underneath as I never rust proofed it. But 5 weeks ago when I had it hoisted, mechanic said it's still solid from what he can see. There's only a small amount of rust on the lip of the hood. This is a stick shift which would very much limit any market for it. The most comparable thing I could find on autotrader, with manual, was a guy selling for $2,200 CAD. But that would be in driving condition. Do think there's a market at all for say a mechanic who would buy it for $500 to $1,000 and do the fix himself? Could the new brakes alone be worth something to someone who is not a scrap yard? I also put $60 gas in it the day of! I'm not in a rush to replace until my wife goes back to work in January as the bus stop is at the top of my street. I'll lose 18 minutes a day doing that to get to and from the commuter trains station as I take the train to work downtown every day. So I can hold onto this car in my driveway for a while until I figure out what to do. I did some googling and asked some other people and they say it could just be the master or slave cylinder. However, I looked at the brake fluid reservoir and it is full if that means anything. By the way, this happened on the highway in a construction zone meaning there was no shoulder. So I was driving in 1st gear at about 20 to 25 mph for two minutes before I reached a shoulder. And while fooling around with shifting there, the place I finally pulled over and my driveway, I grinded through 1st, 2nd and reverse quite a few times trying to get it to move. Don't know if that damaged the gearbox. Anyone have an idea the cost to fix one of the clutch cylinders? When I get home I'll see if I can find my invoices from both times I had work done on it or end up calling the mechanic to check his records. But I am in a more affluent part of town where rates are higher than where I used to live back in the day before I had clutch problems. If you were in this situation would you ditch this car? I am thinking of a 2015 Accord, Camry or Mazda 6 under 60k in mileage but I would wait till at least November. Thanks for the advice.

Two days ago face plate wasn't in. Two months ago, the face plate was in and heat was left on. These are the last two times battery has died. Anwyay, I'm gonna print some instructions on how to test for draws. I think I'll have to buy a multimeter. Never used one before. Have to decide if I should but a $35 one from China with 5 star reveiws across the board or a more expensive one. Problem is that I have no idea what the differences between a cheap and expensive one are.

Thanks. The radio system could be drawing power even though I pop out the face plate every night? I should probably invest in a multimeter.

Hi. I have a 2006 Fusion 4cyl manual SEL. For the past three winters I have had a problem of my car failing to start a few times. It has only happened in the winter. Basically 3 to 5 times per winter I wake up to find my battery dead. Sometimes the doors open with the fob and I turn the ignition and it's a series of clicking noises, and a couple times it was so dead that remote locks didn't even work. I have had the mech give me two brand new top of the line batteries. So that is not the problem. He also changed the alternator, but two weeks later I woke up to find it dead again. Then it dawned on me, as this is only happening in the winter, is it heating system related? Well when I get home from work I turn the car off while the heat was running. So I said to myself, I will always turn off the heat before turning off the car. At the same time, I'd remove the face plate from my after market radio deck. I also had an amp with subwoofer, but 3.5 years ago I completely removed the red power cord that ran from the amp to the battery. Something had to be drawing power gradually in the 13 hours between getting home from work and getting up the next day to go to work. It never once happened while I was parked at the commuter train station for 10 hours while I'm working and commuting. Well a week went by and I woke up to a dead car. I see that the radio deck is still in, which means I forgot to turn off the heat. Another two months went by where I always turned off the heat and removed the deck, I did not have the problem. But this past Sunday was the first day in a long time I didn't drive my car. I woke up Monday morning to a car that wouldn't start. It was making the electrical clicking noise, but wouldn't start. And my heat was definitely off. I used my booster pack to get it started. This has happened a couple times in the past 3 years as well. Went a day without driving and car didn't start. One time in May, I was gone for 12 days on vacation and car didn't start. The other times it was one winter day without driving. I thought I solved the issue but apparently not. It's better now because I turn off the heat but that wasn't 100% of the problem, apparently. My mechanic mentioned something about some central smart relay box that controls everything. I can't quite recall what the name of it is. But basically if there's something wrong with one thing in there, you have to replace the whole thing. This would cost a lot. So I'm trying to narrow down what the problem might be. Is it possible the analog clock could be drawing too much power? I know it runs when the car is off, but do you think I should start there? If so, I'm not sure what would happen if I pulled that fuse. On this page of the manual: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/06fsnog3e.pdf It says: Fuse/Relay Location: 13 Fuse Amp Rating: 7.5A Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel Description: Cluster, KAM-PCM, Analog clock, Climate control head units, Canister vent solenoid I have no idea what these things in the description are other than the clock. The location and amp rating are obvious. But if I pull the fuse, will I be shutting down these other things as well? Or is it saying I should pull out the panel in the centre of my car around the radio, and that's where I can find some fuses. And I can pull one fuse that is specific to the clock? Thanks for the advice.

They double checked all the connections and said it was fine. I have to take their word for it because even if it was loose, many people wouldn't admit to that. However, he did say when starting, press the clutch pedal as hard as you can into the floor. Now I do that and it does indeed start. I was already pushing it to the floor as usual but I have to push it extra had to depress that extra mm. He said it'll start to wear in and be easier to start without having to push down so hard. I guess because it has a new cylinder and it's a hydraulic system with fluid that naturally it will be a little different than before? I know for sure that the pedal itself is a little lower now than it was before but I've already gotten used to it.

I picked up my car at 10pm and by 10:05 is when I noticed the problem. Just now at 11pm I went back out to test it. It did that 1-2 second delay again. I drove it for 2 minutes and then parked on the road and turned it off. Did that 1-2 second delay again. Turned it off and tried again and wouldn't start at all. Tried again and would start. Waited one minute and it started with the 1-2 second delay. Got back to my place and turned it off. Then I thought I should video it and post it on here. Well of course the 1-2 second delay thing didn't happen. What happened was: - tried again and almost started but didn't - tried again and nothing - tried again and nothing - tried again and started fine - with car running, turned it off and then tried again but nothing. I have posted all this in the video below. https://vimeo.com/126217831

I have an '06 Fusion and just had the master cylinder on my clutch changed today. The clutch was sticking to the floor yesterday and got worse when I tested it that night. I couldn't even change out of first gear even though the clutch was depressed as it was sticking to the floor. A few hours before that I could at least change from 1st to neutral. I actually tested it on the road earlier and had to pop up the clutch with my toes each time and change gears. But by night I couldn't move the shifter at all except when the car was off. I picked up my car from the mech late tonight as I had my spare keys. It started fine in that parking lot. But then I got gas and when I started again, there was a 1-2 delay that was total silence between turning the key and the car starting. I noticed that the battery must have been disconnected because all my radio settings and analog clock were reset. Also, it was a couple of months ago I was having trouble with my 1 year old motomaster battery. I had that changed back then to a better battery. Not sure if that has anything to do with it but the battery is only 2 months old. Anyone have a similar problem? I am going to call the mech in the morning. Thx.

Mech said it was the master cylinder. It has been replaced. However, now my car has delay before starting. Like 1-2 seconds after turning the key. Then it starts. No cranking, just silence. I'm going to make another thread about that.

Hi. I was driving and out of nowhere, the pedal sticks. So I turned out of plaza and was in first gear, and when I went to release the clutch, it didn't come up. I had to stick the toes of my shoe under to pull it up. Then when I shifted to second, same thing. Third and fourth were fine. Didn't try fifth. I drove around the local roads a few more minutes and it keeps happening. I have had a look and can't figure out why. Don't know much about cars but from what I have read, there is a clutch cylinder that could have gone bad? How much would that cost? The clutch fluid reservoir is full. However, I don't think that has been changed for years if at all. Any advice on what to do next? Should I bring it to the dealer? Or any reputable shop? Both are 5 minutes away. Thx.

A couple of weeks ago, my battery was dead and I need the booster cables from my trunk. I discovered that the lock will not turn whatsoever after inserting the key. In the 8 years I've had the car since new, I can't actually ever remember using the key in the trunk lock so maybe it is seized due to non-use? Tried both keys. Tried WD and de-icer. Nothing works. I'm not all that technical so I have a couple of questions: 1. Where can I buy the trunk lock for an '06 Fusion SE online? Surely it'll be cheaper than the dealer. 2. Would this be fairly easy to install myself? Thanks.

So a couple of days after my car locked me out, I tried again and this time when turning the key to the right, I could feel that slight resistance and then "click", which is the feeling/sound when a door unlocks. Except it still didn't. The previous day I used WD and de-icer for the hell of it and I don't know if they did anything. Anyway, so later on I joined CAA and they came over and propped open the door a bit and unlocked the passenger side. I reached across and opened the driver's side. Then I went around the car and opened the driver's door and then locked it and closed the door. And then tried the key and it worked perfectly. Did this three times. And remember, my car battery was still dead at this point. I have no idea why for that one stretch of time my lock just wouldn't open. After that, they boosted the car and I went to the mechanic for an AVR test and they said the battery is crap. Got a new one and was on my way.

Definitely not frozen shut. Opened fine in the morning and pulled on it hard tonight. I literally can't get into my car right now. And I can't pop the hood either. I can reach under the hood and feel the latch with my fingers but I can't get it to disengage.