jlong

I am needing upper control arms again. I don't think this last set lasted as long as the original ones. I'm wondering if there is a difference between the AWD arms and non AWD arms. I have a non AWD with 18" wheels. I'm wondering if the ball joint is offset more or less. I'm also wondering if the bushings are beefier in the AWD arms. I might just have to go compare them at the auto parts store. Thanks.

So, it's been a little over 5 years. OP are you ashamed by your car now?

Ok, you know what I mean lol. So it was 80+ degrees today and the. Compressor didn't sound like it was coming on. I added some R134a and now it's blowing cold. As I was adding it the compressor was cycling because I could hear it and the pressure gauge would move. One thing I noticed is the fan wasn't on or cycling, though the AC is cold and the engine temp is fine. So I'm wondering if the noise I heard was the fan going out and not the compressor bearing because I didn't hear any unusual noise from the compressor while I was under the hood. I guess it's time for a fan assembly. So, the urgent question is how do I locate the leak. Is there already dye in the system or do I have to add it. One other bit of info. I didn't add quite a whole can of R134a, a regular size can. I guess it wasn't that low.

I know I have a leak because I had to add Freon over the last summer. Well it's been about 8 months or so and it's not blowing as cold again. I've also noticed a noise now coming from the compressor, A wine like a bad idler pulley. It's not that loud though. I'm assuming it's because of low Freon so I hope it goes away when I recharge it. Does the system come with dye in it from the factory or do I have to add dye? Are there any common leak points to check for on the fusion or in general? Also does the noise indicate low Freon or does it mean the clutch is bad or worse? Thanks, John

When my water pump was replaced the shop took it out the bottom. I would be interested to see someone pull it out the top but good luck. You'll probably end up having to remove exhaust manifolds, and pretty much all the accessories. A better question might be how high does the front end need to be to drop the engine!

If the caliper appears to not be releasing it could be a stuck pin. I now make it a habit of replacing the pins along with the pads. If the pins didn't go in without resistance then that could be the problem. If there was some moderate resistance when putting the pins back in then that could be it. Also if you put too much grease in the pin hole then it could be trying to force the pin back out and not allowing it to slide freely. Also Not sure if this is a problem on these cars but if you bled the brakes or flushed the fluid and you let the reservoir go dry you could have sucked air into the ABS pump and that would make it to where the brakes won't work. This happened to me on a chevy 1500, early 2000's model. You would have to have the ABS pump cycled to get the air out while bleeding the brakes. Ever since I did that I have never let the reservoir go dry! Edit: It could also be a stuck caliper piston. You might take the caliper off and have someone press the brake pedal and see if the piston comes out. If it pops out it's ok, You can press it back in. You might want to get a caliper rebuild kit, which is basically just the rubber seal/dust boot.

So I had to go to work this morning and it was 19° outside. Freaking cold for Katy (suburb west of Houston). The rattle was extra bad. When I got home I checked the 3 nuts on each side but they were tight. I got maybe 1/8th turn on each one on both sides. I also tightened the nut in the top of the shock. I remember when I reassembled the shock and mount the nut didn't go on that far, but everything was snug. There isn't any thread showing. I tried tightening it more and almost stripped the nut because of the angle the wrench was on it. I really think there should be 2 regular nuts instead of the lock nut so you could get it tighter. Oh well. The noise is gone! It must have been the same thing as the OP. So that's the end of that for now I guess. Hope this helps someone else.

No effing way. Let's hope it isn't the bushings. Damn it I wish I would have thought about them while my engine was out!

That's the damn truth! Or maybe I should use flex seal instead lol.

Rather than start a new discussion I'm going to use yours. I have this rattle noise at slow speeds and it sounds like what you are describing. I did suspect the same 3 nuts you mention but they are hand tight. I might have to check it with a wrench. I also suspected sway bar end links or sway bar bushings. It really sounds like the sound a bar would make if it were loose in a rubber housing, if that makes sense. Kind of like a clunking noise. If the 3 bolts don't fix it I'm going to check the sway bar. I did change the upper and lower control arms recently along with the shock and mount. I guess it could be the upper control arm. I'm going to have to go over every bolt again I guess. How hard is it to change the sway bar bushings on a 2010 sport?

Thanks. I actually tried to trade it in on a 2016 F150. Dealer would only give me $500 for it. I just couldn't do it. The only logical answer was to fix it. Really at any cost below $6000 the answer was to fix it. I'm glad I did.

I guess I could sand the ones I have down and paint them too. Maybe plasti dip. Actually... I'll probably plastidip the ones I have now. I just need to fix the chip in the chrome. It's entirely possible the chrome might just peel off. I was also thinking if I replace the damaged on with a new chrome one it might make the other chrome look like crap. Ugh, what to do... plasti dip it is! I'm going to plasti dip the whole damn front end lol. And the wheels too while I'm at it. And the chrome strip below the windows... I replaced the trunk lid chrome strip with a painted black one already. Might have to do the ford logo on the back, but that might be a bit too much. I have also been thinking about smoking the tail lights.

Could you use forscan and an odb2 adapter to fix it yourself? http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/10948-new-configuration-feature-of-forscan-23-for-windows/

I might just replace both with the black plastic ones. I can get both sides for less than $50 on ebay. And my car is black so it wouldn't look to bad I guess. It might look silly though with the chrome center lower grill though. Any thoughts?

That's it. Thanks. There is a chunk of chrome missing on my drivers left side and it's this yellowish plastic underneath. But damn, $100 that's kind of crazy. Here it is on a ford parts site. http://www.discountfordpartsfromsoundford.net/product-p/ae5z-17e811-f-2539226.htm

I'm guessing the stuff that says Required (Viewable to you and staff only) others can't see but here is what it looks like on my screen. It just makes the post really tall. lol I don't think quite as much info was required before so I only had 3 items listed down the left side.

I went to edit my forum profile and now all this extra stuff is required. What's up with that?

The chrome trim ring around the fog light has chipped. I haven't looked at it closely but is that something that can be replaced? I looked at fordparts.com but couldn't find just the trim ring. Thanks!

I got it back! Drives good. The howl and vibration is gone (front bearings and I guess possibly drivers side axle shaft). Getting tires balanced and rotated and an alignment. There was a slight shake in the steering wheel at 60mph. Overall I'm pleased with the outcome. Getting used to the way the engine sounds because of the new stuff that was put on it. It is quieter.

I'm still pissed though that the water pump cost this much to fix! It's better than a new car payment though and I still like my car. It has just enough bells and whistles to keep me happy. If it was a base model sport I may not have been quite as quick to fix it.

Well, they just called and it's all done. Grand total $2485. Not as bad as I expected! The dealer wanted $3300 for just the water pump and radiator fan. The shop said the fans are working... So that is a hell of a deal. A place called Smith's Auto in Katy. I'll report back once I get the car. They did say there are no strange noises and no check engine lights which is a relief. Edit: the total includes towing my car to their shop. Edit 2: I did supply the control arms, oil and filter and the bearings which is another $300 or so, can't remember what I paid for the control arms exactly. The bearings were $110 and the oil and filter were $50 or so. I also paid for the fan assembly but since the fans are working I'm going to return the ones I ordered.

I should be getting the car back today. I don't know how much it's all going to be though. So I had them change the water pump (of course!), any timing components that came off, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, alternator, front lower rearward control arms, belts, tensioner, change the oil, fill with new radiator fluid, both front bearings, and drivers side axle because it was buggered up removing from the hub. That should be it, I've got the extra large tube of lube ready! lol

I'm in Houston (Katy) and it does get hot. Also I think there is an unusually high amount of heat trapped under the hood, well I guess that's to be expected when you stuff a large engine in such a small car. Also there is insulation under the hood and a plastic cover underneath helping trap the heat.