zubrzyckir

I'm on my phone where that info isn't directly visible. Also, the city I listed has not been updated in quite some time - so it isn't correct. Many are in the same boat. But thanks for the info, although it isn't fullproof.

360 bucks?? Where are you? How much is shipping to your country? Those parts here only cost like $50 USD

They can be had for that cheap if you try hard enough. Ebay has great prices and so do discount auto parts stores. I would not advise third party replacements, as they are usually faulty and fitment isn't perfect. If you want to go the cheap route, you can always go to a scrap yard and pick it yourself - and they're usually like 10 bucks. The plus side with that is you can snip the pigtail and not worry about paying extra for that. I'm pretty sure the pigtail Ford sells for this is a rediculous amount.

Honestly I would swap out the resistor as well. It can be had for as little as 30 bucks but you do not want it burning out the pigtail and causing issues. My air would cut off as well, at it was the connection at the resistor. The resistor and pigtail were what burned out. The pins would not connect and would result in a total air loss. I changed all 3 parts (blower motor, pig tail, and resistor) on mine, and have not had an issue thus far. I made the mistake of not changing out the resistor the first time and went through a pigtail cause it melted. For an extra few bucks, it doesnt hurt to change all the parts and not have to worry - just make sure you solder the connections well or they can cause issues there, as well

If you have no blower at any time but hear the compressor come on means you have the blower issue, and since you have 0 fan speed - it is the resistor. On mine I changed the resistor and the cable pigtail. It melted right at the connection. So the resistor fried, but most times it is because the blower motor causes issue and burned resistor. The first time I only changed the resistor and cable, but my motor caused the same issue. It is best to change all 3. Since you are Amman, I don't know what parts you can get and for what price, but I would change all 3 - if you don't change the motor it can fry the resistor again.

Hey all, So, I am having some odd vibration and clicking sounds in my 2010 Fusion and hopefully someone can shed some light. I have a 2010 fusion with about 100,000 miles on it. For about a week or so now, every time i turned left or right (mostly all the way), I would hear an almost clicking like sound coming from the front as i would drive off. Once I straightened out, the sound went away. I do not notice it any time after that. Yesterday though when i was driving down I75, my car would start to like shake or like be bumpy, or like a thumping sound, (not sure how to describe it) if i turned my steering wheel ever so slightly to the right, in one specific spot actually. If I kept it a straight, turned left or moved the wheel left, it would go away. Actually it would go away if i turned or moved the steering wheel even more to the right, there was this spot that if ever just touched my wheel right it would like vibrate and almost feel like a bumpy road. It would be worse at faster speeds. Do not really notice it in city driving. Has anyone experienced this? Are the two matters related? Sorry for the terrible description, but I don't know how to better describe it. Any advice or input it always appreciated.

Honestly once you have all the parts, it doesn't take more than 15 minutes. Yah off of eBay from actual ford dealers, if you're lucky

Mine is also the dual zone systen. I was under the impression all SEL's were. When i say resistor i refer to part number 8E5Z19E624A. It seems to be called a blower motor resistor, that's what i was calling it when i was looking for it. What melted in mine (and most people that i spoke to about it) was that pig tail connecting that unit. I made the mistake replacing the resistor only the first time only to have it melt again as i didn't replace the wiring. Also i know Amazon has that piece for almost a hundred and same with the blower motor but if you look hard enough you can find all 3 for under 100 bucks. The only place i could find the pig tail is the ford dealership.

What i ended up doing was replacing the resistor, the blower motor, and the resistor pigtail. That has been the best solution thus far. Ford is obviously aware of the problem because the resistor pig tail i got from the ford dealership was way better quality and was thicker wiring. That burning smell that you get is essentially the pig tail melting in the resistor. They will both go in a matter of time if you don't take care of it. Ford won't fix it even though its a known issue. I just replaced those 3 things and have been driving fine ever since. Best of luck

I am going to jack it up tonight and see what happens. I drove it less than 2 miles today and the check engine light went off and no codes are present. I am doing a trans fluid change anyway so its a good time to inspect everything

Hey there, So today there were killer rain and flash floods here in Deep South Texas. I was driving home and was pulling out of a walgreens parking lot and drove into deeper water than i thought there was. I heard a scrape and watched the water splash. I drove a little bit further and all of a sudden i hear a thud and look behind me and see that my driver side wheel well /fender cover is ripped off as well as long skinny guard that is directly connected to the bumper. (I have had some body issues and that little skinny part was already breaking off. ) All of a sudden i got the wrench light and the check engine light. I got home and let the car sit for a bit (10-15 minutes) and then went out there with my little bluetooth OBD2 reader. I read the code and it comes up as P0713 - transmission fluid temperature sensor circuit high input . The check engine light is still on but the wrench light has since gone away. Does anyone what may have cause this? I would like to fix this myself it is simple (praying) or would i be able to drive it to the dealer. I was like a quarter mile from when it happened to my house but that drive back, i did not notice any sort of issues or clunking or anything. I am scouring the internet, but cannot come up with anything. It is now dark so i cannot go check it out further but will be doing that tomorrow if it is dry enough

i thought it might be the blend door. My question is, that this all started after i spliced the connectors (maybe a coincidence) but are any of those wires connected to the blend door? I cant seem to find any schematics. Also, some posts say i have to remove the dash? Is there any guide on how to do that. I only found one for a 2008, and though it seems similar its not the same. I think if i am going to have to pull the dash, i might change the Evap temp sensor as well....they seem to be giving people trouble as well.

Hey all, I have a 2010 Fusion SEL that has been having some A/C issues. (fyi its full of freon) A while back my fusion stopped blowing. After posting here and doing some inspecting, i noticed that the blower motor had gone as well as the resistor. I then switched out the blower motor and the resistor and it seemed to work fine. Fast forward to about two weeks ago, and my a/c again had cut off and i was upset. After looking at the resistor i noticed that the connector/pigtail had melted. I bought a new resistor and a new pigtail for it and spliced it in. I noticed that it wasnt blowing as cold as it should. It seemed like room temperature air. Sometimes it seems to blow really cold and sometimes not at all. It blows strong, but just not as cold as i want. I dont know why sometimes it works well and sometimes it doesnt. Usually does not though. Anyway, about a day ago I noticed that the passenger side was blowing really hot air. I am not sure why. That is where I am at now. I took a look under the glove box but nothing seems to be bad. I wonder if maybe this has something to do with my splicing job or what. I am going to maybe try to resplice it but its 100 plus here in Texas and i am way too fair skinned to be out there in direct sunlight and this heat. Maybe try in a few hours. Hopefully someone has some insight and advice. Anything is appreciated.

Hey all, So last year i had an issue with my ac not working. After some digging around and posts on this forum, i noticed the pins on my resistor had melted and needed to be changed. I changed the resistor (black box with the heatsink) and the blower motor as it had gone as well. It was fine for the summer and didn't really use it for the winter (was working in Canada and did not need the ac) I have since relocated to Texas, and last week the ac would cut off and on. I would remedy this by sticking my hand under there and wiggling the cables. This seemed to do the trick till about a few days ago. My wiggle trick stopped working and so i stuck my head under there to see what has going on. I was shocked to see that the resistor pigtail/connector had totally melted. I then removed the blower motor, the resistor the cut the burned pigtail off. The blower motor seemed fine and had no issues so i reinstalled that. I ordered a new connector cable and spliced it in and then ordered a new resistor and installed that. After about an hour of work in the hot Texas sun, i got it set up and the fan turned on and seemed to be blowing air This is the second day after install and i notice it does not get that cold as it did before. i have not done any inspecting yet but it doesn't get as cold as it used to. I notice it gets colder when you hit the max a/c button, but still not to the desired temperature. When you leave it on a/c with the fan high, it doesn't really get that warm. It blows cool air. I am not sure what could be the issue. My install seems to be holding up without any issue but that is all i have looked at. Any advise is greatly appreciated. If there is any other information needed, let me know and i will provide. Thanks, Raf

mine had the same issue. the blower resistor (the black box with a heatsink) was totally fried and was producing a foul smell autozone had the box for $130 but i really dont want to spent that much.