thefoeyouknow

The actuator (power lock) is part of the latch module, but the handle is connected by a cable to that module. There is only one cable, and it operates the lock AND the release. If you have a problem with the interior release, and the interior handle us new, you may have a mechanical problem with the latch. Since 05 when Fusion debuted I have replaced hundreds of interior release handles, but no latches.

You've got that big plastic cover under the engine, and it can obscure a lot of oil leaks in the common places.

The new remote needs to be programmed to the RMST system. Find the override switch attached to the RMST module. Hold the brake and turn on the ignition, then hold the override switch for several seconds (I don't remember how long) after the chirp, release the brake and override, press the button ON THE REMOTE START FOB, you should get a chirp if you have more than one, program the one by pressing IT'S button and getting a chirp as a response. turn off the ignition, remove the key. with the doors closed, press and hold the remote start button for 2 Mississippi and release. there should be a chirp, a couple second wait, then a start up, followed by a 2 to 4 second wait, then parking lights as visual confirmation of start. I have a write-up on the Bronze system 100 kit, here. If you go looking for it, please accept Photobucket's apology for the pictures being broken. They apparently didn't feel like sharing anymore. At the dealer, I installed several hundred of that kit on various Ford vehicles.

Daytime running lights.

The rain sensor is a camera attached to the glass with a Gel Lens, ABOVE the rear view mirror, the lower camera is for auto-high beam and LANE DEPARTURE warning. The Homelink opener doesn't need an "eye", it's not IR, it's RF and it's entirely enclosed in it's assembly (you can take it out and wire it to a 9 volt and it will work. Ask me how I know). The controls for rain sensing wipers are on the right stalk ONLY, with rain sensing, it's a sensitivity adjustment, without it's the interval setting. There are no menu items related to rain sensing wipers in the message center, whether you have it or you don't.

Exactly. And a Bi-Xenon system is best when built into a projector. A Bi-Xenon projector provides HID high beams by simply changing the optics. Instead of a Low beam, consider it a light source, if you change the shield, you change the beam height and create a high beam. DON'T PUT HIDs IN YOUR HIGH BEAM. Change your projectors to 1. an actual HID projector (has a different shaped reflector bowl so you don't blind people and can have a properly wide beam) 2. a Bi-Xenon HID projector (not required unless you really want HID high beams, as OEMs like to use a fixed low beam HID with a halogen high beam so they can current limit the high beam for use as a DRL).

They're HIDs, of course they are. Answer this: do OEMs have separate HID high beams? Why not?

So, you really want to wait 3 to 10 seconds for your high beams to be usable? Wow.

Bi-Xenon Hella projector swap with D2S burners, 35w ballasts and Capacitors (4700uF). Only way to do it. I don't have strange electrical problems with my setup, my autolamps don't stick on, nothing. Don't use relay kits, don't use shit-can ballasts, and for God's sake, don't try to put rebased burners in your stock projectors. Now, OP hasn't told us about his setup, I can only assume based on what every OTHER HID problem around here starts out with for a swap setup. If I've misjudged you, please elaborate by detailing your HID layout.

When the system is static (clutch not engaged), you'll find that system pressure will be more or less equal to ambient temp in F. If you're reading 70psi, you're not engaging. Who knows why, but there is always the old standby of disconnecting the battery 15 minutes. The clutch is managed by computers, and every now and then a computer needs the old 3 finger salute. After you try that, go see the dealer. And as always do not add refrigerant yourself. If a shop knows you did, they probably won't touch it for fear of getting their 3,000 to 10,000 dollar machine fucked up with sealant. You can never be sure your walmart refrigerant cans don't have "stop-leak". Quotes, because stop leak doesn't stop leaks, it fucks shit up.

I don't know about this valve specifically, but some EGR valves can be forced open by backpressure. I'd check for backpressure, it's easy and fast.

I stand corrected. Congratulations on your victory.

My friend uses that on his EcoBoost truck, swears he has a MAF. All EcoBoost engines are speed density, so no actual MAF; just a calculated value. The "all EcoBoost are speed density" thing is directly from Ford engineers as related to me in training in Allen Park. I have the literature. I haven't peeked under the hood of the Fusion lately, so I'd be happy to admit to being wrong if you can post a pic of your EGR valve.

I'm glad to hear that. My wife is out by you for work, and based on her reports of the weather there, 201-205 seems completely reasonable. Unless I'm mistaken, you don't have an EGR valve. My Fusion is a 12 with a 2.5, and I don't have one so I can't imagine that you would. Ford uses the variable cam timing to influence valve overlap for the purpose of achieving the same effect.