thefoeyouknow

The actuator (power lock) is part of the latch module, but the handle is connected by a cable to that module. There is only one cable, and it operates the lock AND the release. If you have a problem with the interior release, and the interior handle us new, you may have a mechanical problem with the latch. Since 05 when Fusion debuted I have replaced hundreds of interior release handles, but no latches.

You've got that big plastic cover under the engine, and it can obscure a lot of oil leaks in the common places.

The new remote needs to be programmed to the RMST system. Find the override switch attached to the RMST module. Hold the brake and turn on the ignition, then hold the override switch for several seconds (I don't remember how long) after the chirp, release the brake and override, press the button ON THE REMOTE START FOB, you should get a chirp if you have more than one, program the one by pressing IT'S button and getting a chirp as a response. turn off the ignition, remove the key. with the doors closed, press and hold the remote start button for 2 Mississippi and release. there should be a chirp, a couple second wait, then a start up, followed by a 2 to 4 second wait, then parking lights as visual confirmation of start. I have a write-up on the Bronze system 100 kit, here. If you go looking for it, please accept Photobucket's apology for the pictures being broken. They apparently didn't feel like sharing anymore. At the dealer, I installed several hundred of that kit on various Ford vehicles.

Daytime running lights.

The rain sensor is a camera attached to the glass with a Gel Lens, ABOVE the rear view mirror, the lower camera is for auto-high beam and LANE DEPARTURE warning. The Homelink opener doesn't need an "eye", it's not IR, it's RF and it's entirely enclosed in it's assembly (you can take it out and wire it to a 9 volt and it will work. Ask me how I know). The controls for rain sensing wipers are on the right stalk ONLY, with rain sensing, it's a sensitivity adjustment, without it's the interval setting. There are no menu items related to rain sensing wipers in the message center, whether you have it or you don't.

Exactly. And a Bi-Xenon system is best when built into a projector. A Bi-Xenon projector provides HID high beams by simply changing the optics. Instead of a Low beam, consider it a light source, if you change the shield, you change the beam height and create a high beam. DON'T PUT HIDs IN YOUR HIGH BEAM. Change your projectors to 1. an actual HID projector (has a different shaped reflector bowl so you don't blind people and can have a properly wide beam) 2. a Bi-Xenon HID projector (not required unless you really want HID high beams, as OEMs like to use a fixed low beam HID with a halogen high beam so they can current limit the high beam for use as a DRL).

They're HIDs, of course they are. Answer this: do OEMs have separate HID high beams? Why not?

So, you really want to wait 3 to 10 seconds for your high beams to be usable? Wow.

Bi-Xenon Hella projector swap with D2S burners, 35w ballasts and Capacitors (4700uF). Only way to do it. I don't have strange electrical problems with my setup, my autolamps don't stick on, nothing. Don't use relay kits, don't use shit-can ballasts, and for God's sake, don't try to put rebased burners in your stock projectors. Now, OP hasn't told us about his setup, I can only assume based on what every OTHER HID problem around here starts out with for a swap setup. If I've misjudged you, please elaborate by detailing your HID layout.

When the system is static (clutch not engaged), you'll find that system pressure will be more or less equal to ambient temp in F. If you're reading 70psi, you're not engaging. Who knows why, but there is always the old standby of disconnecting the battery 15 minutes. The clutch is managed by computers, and every now and then a computer needs the old 3 finger salute. After you try that, go see the dealer. And as always do not add refrigerant yourself. If a shop knows you did, they probably won't touch it for fear of getting their 3,000 to 10,000 dollar machine fucked up with sealant. You can never be sure your walmart refrigerant cans don't have "stop-leak". Quotes, because stop leak doesn't stop leaks, it fucks shit up.

I don't know about this valve specifically, but some EGR valves can be forced open by backpressure. I'd check for backpressure, it's easy and fast.

I stand corrected. Congratulations on your victory.

My friend uses that on his EcoBoost truck, swears he has a MAF. All EcoBoost engines are speed density, so no actual MAF; just a calculated value. The "all EcoBoost are speed density" thing is directly from Ford engineers as related to me in training in Allen Park. I have the literature. I haven't peeked under the hood of the Fusion lately, so I'd be happy to admit to being wrong if you can post a pic of your EGR valve.

I'm glad to hear that. My wife is out by you for work, and based on her reports of the weather there, 201-205 seems completely reasonable. Unless I'm mistaken, you don't have an EGR valve. My Fusion is a 12 with a 2.5, and I don't have one so I can't imagine that you would. Ford uses the variable cam timing to influence valve overlap for the purpose of achieving the same effect.

Get a 6800uF 50v capacitor for each ballast. You're feeding the ballasts a pulse width modulated signal for power, and they don't like it. Also, 55w is a poor choice for ANY HID install, there are several reasons why, you're dealing with at least one of them. On your car, you don't need CAN-BUS adapters or ballasts, because they also add load. You have to understand what the term can-bus means, it means that the system monitors current draw to determine the health of the light bulb and circuit. If draw is low, it thinks the bulb is out; if it's high, it thinks there is a short. When the BCM flags either of these conditions, it disables the circuit as a protection measure. Can-bus also means that the module controls brightness through the process of pulse-width modulation, which means it's cycling the power on and off at a high frequency with a transistor, rather than just grounding a relay on that supplies clean power from the battery. THIS is how ballasts die in newer cars. THAT is can-bus. If someone tells you a ballast includes can-bus hardware they're full of shit. A can-bus adapter includes a load resistor and a capacitor. The load resistor increases current draw so the module doesn't get the idea that the bulb is out, and the capacitor cleans up the power. With 55w ballasts, you're already at or near the current draw the module wants to see, so adding the load resistor can push the module into thinking there is a short by further raising draw. All you need for your high contrast special is a suitable capacitor on each ballast to clean up the power. You can do THIS, but in the few years since this post, I've started using 6800uF 50v caps.

On the discussion of the profitability where you suggest an engine replacement to be more lucrative: An engine replacement carries a LOWER profit margin that a head replacement, which is less profitable than a valve replacement and seat repair. From a business standpoint, heavy engine is more of a liability, costs are higher for the shop, markups are lower, and labor doesn't make up the difference. A long block is a sure thing, but LESS profitable, so the idea that a dealership or other shop wants to push it because it's a high dollar job is simply uninformed. It's only about risk management, take the profit hit to avoid a larger loss from having to eat the job next time. I no longer work for a dealer, I'm an independent now, so I don't want to sell you a car, and I would have made the same recommendation. Your block assembly may be fine, but there is no way for them to know that, aside from what you tell them, and customers are notoriously unreliable as a source of information. I hope your repair ends well. Please don't mistrust your mechanic because you misjudge his intentions.

I hope you're right, but it's your gamble to make, not the technicians. He makes the safe call, because he stands to lose more from his bad call than you do. If he fucks up the dealer will make it right and you still win, but he can lose big. Not just his time or his money, but depending what it's like to work in his shop, a bad call could cost him his job. By making the safe call for a long block, there's almost no risk of the problem still being there when the job is done. Bonus, a reman long block comes with a big warranty. I really do hope you only have a valve problem, really, I do. But what I want is for you to understand why a technician might make that call.

Run it with the upstream oxygen sensors out of the pipes and see if it's better. Make sure they're unplugged if you're going to run it for more than a minute or so. And FYI, all the coils should have power with the key on, as the PCM doesn't switch power to the coils, it switches ground.

That's a mechanic covering his ass with both hands. He figures, you probably need a head, but with all the soot (basically what he says he sees) he's not sure you're rings are in good shape. They're probably fine, but with burned valves, he can't confirm that they're good by either compression test, OR cylinder leakdown test. Simply put, without repairing the problems with the head, he can't be sure there are no other VERY expensive problems. By the way, would you like to pay him to repair the problem with valves (I'd put a head on it if it were me), and then when it becomes evident that there is a problem with ring sealing, pay him again to take your shiny new head and put it on a shiny new short block? Because I'll guarantee, he's not going back in there for free. And will you then go back to complain that he won't do a 16 hour job for nothing? There's a saying: Man who swings bigger hammer hits more nails. It may seem like bullshit to you, but he's looking at your mileage (a great achievement on your part) and combining it with a long standing running problem, what he sees in the cylinders, and what he knows about his luck. He figures that with a long block, there's no possibility of having to do this shit twice. I say he's right. You want to roll dice on a valve repair/ head replacement, you go ahead, your technician isn't into gambling with his time. In our industry (his and mine), If you can't prove a component isn't failed, it's probably failed. It's like a gun, unless you can prove it's not loaded, it's loaded. And he can't prove it's not loaded.

And welcome one and all to today's episode of RTFM.

I don't have anything to tell you about your noise, but I just wanted to point out that the 2.5L does indeed have a balance shaft. You'll see it if you ever pull off the oil pan.

Here's your list of possible targets, Fire for effect. Water in the harness connector UO2SPC11 circuit open Corrosion Incorrect connections Excessive fuel pressure Leaking or contaminated fuel injectors Leaking fuel pressure regulator Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel EVAP purge valve stuck open Air leaks after the mass airflow (MAF) sensor (if equipped) Vacuum leaks Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is leaking Incorrectly seated engine oil dipstick Leaking gasket Stuck EGR valve Leaking diaphragm or EGR vacuum regulator Oil overfill Camshaft timing Cylinder compression Exhaust leaks before or near the universal HO2S11 Damaged universal HO2S11 Damaged PCM

That P2195 could be a secondary code. Your front O2 sensor is a wideband, which is very expensive. More expensive, I dare say, than professional diagnosis. If you're going to start firing the parts cannon at it without a spotter, be prepared for lots of loading.

You have projector low beams on Milan, which means that if it fell apart you're looking for an assembly. You can look into aftermarket units to save money, but if you do, insist on an assembly that is capa certified.