thefoeyouknow

Nope. We pull the dash. We do it so much, we can do it pretty fast, but it still all comes out. My best ever was an hour and 5 on my wife's car, but even after doing dozens, I average 2 hours. Protip: the dash can be tilted back far enough with the console out to squeeze between and get the sensor. There's a locating pin on the left side of the center support that makes a decent pivot.

Because you didn't vacuum the air from the system before charging it. and BTW, if you don't know what it is, don't work with it. R-134a. Get a pro for this, you don't have the proper equipment, and you OBVIOUSLY don't know what you're doing.

So, one small relay terminal is ground, but the other is NEVER power? You may need to check fuses, because the PCM sends ground, power is there from another source. Without 12v on one of the small terminals, the relay will never energize.

Disconnect the battery. If it is a module problem, this forces the module's memory to reset. Very often, in my experience, this is a simple and effective thing to try, and you shouldn't do anything else until you've tried this. If it helps, it doesn't mean the module is necessarily bad, but if it helps for longer than anything else has, it's a good argument for module replacement.

You're missing a module. HVAC and PCM are on different networks, so in order for the AC request to make it to the PCM, the cluster (acting as a gateway) is involved. Do you have any problems with the cluster, anything weird? Have you verified your charge level? Shouldn't require a dealer visit by any means, but it should be verified by a pro with proper equipment. If you've done this, forget I said anything. As a pro myself, I've seen some hairy DIY AC basket jobs roll in that cost people who were trying to save money a lot of money, so I try to advocate against DIY refrigerant work. The cooling fan comes on at a specified point and ramps up based on high side pressure feedback from the ACP which you replaced. You can verify this by disconnecting the ACP with the engine running. Within 30 seconds, the cooing fan should come on full blast. Don't count on it to come on right away with the compressor engaged, don't expect the fan til around 200 to 225 psi. The PCM provides ground to the control coil of the relay, so test the 2 smaller terminals in the relay socket while the AC is requested. Disconnect the battery positive cable and hold it to any strong ground for 60 seconds, reconnect, retry AC.

Then look for water intrusion and corrosion in connectors.

You're not reading carefully, you can't connect the ballast directly to the main harness, THAT'S your problem. You need a capacitor to clean up the power. Pulse width modulated means that the SJB supplies power to the low beam in a square wave, and THAT means the power is turning on and off really fast usually spending 90 to 95 percent of the time on and 5 to 10 percent off (This is so that Ford can use the low beams as daytime running lights without making any hardware changes. The duty cycle for DRL is around 60%). That constant on and off is your problem. Sure, you read it with a meter as a reduced voltage, but it's not. The latency of your meter is not low enough to register the wave; a scope would catch it. I've seen it with my eyes. You need a capacitor to convert it to a steady feed, and you need to do it on both sides. If you were running 35w ballasts, I'd recommend can-bus adapters, but since you're not, YOU NEED CAPACITORS.

Sizzle is the sound of your ballast turning into smoke.

Read the board. There's an answer in there I've given a dozen times. The low beams are pulse width modulated so the SJB can control brightness. It fries ballasts when they're directly connected. "But I'm using a relay harness" If you've got a sharp fast relay in that harness, it will switch on and off with the PWM and buzz, thereby passing the modulation into the "clean" power the relays are supposed to provide to the ballast. Sizzle. "But it's only doing it on one side" Mass production introduces variation, especially in Chinese crap, The other one will start doing it soon. I've seen everything. See how to do HIDs on 2010 to 2012 Fusion correctly

With a scantool, of course. When these sensors fail, they tend to fail open so that the reading to the pcm is interpreted as -40f, which to the pcm is too cold to grant the clutch request. Sort of like "it's minus 40 and you're asking for AC?!, gtfo, No." there are other sensors involved such as the AC pressure sensor which reads high side pressure to the pcm. If this is sending a reading too high or too low, pcm will deny request. Scantool.

You still need to actually test the sensor. What's happening is the pcm is receiving a clutch request, and for some reason denying it. You need to find out why. The sensor is common, but not exclusive.

That, and if you've been trying to add refrigerant, have the system evacuated and charged to the correct level. There's bound to be too much refrigerant in it now. If you DO need an evap temp sensor, and you DO replace it, you're likely to slug the hell out of the compressor when it finally can engage again. You can do all sorts of work on an AC system yourself, but you shouldn't mess with the sealed side of the system, refrigerant is not something to mess with without equipment and training. It's too easy to do real damage to the car and, potentially, to yourself.

Swap the evaporator temp sensor.

With the AC on and the clutch engaging, the fan should run at low speed all the time. If the condenser gets hot, you lose AC.

Don't take shortcuts. I've seen some of those come in with grotesquely damaged AC systems. The compressor never shuts off when you do it that way. You'll get freezing, swelling, and that's just the easy ones. The sensor is cheap and it's time consuming to install, but not difficult.

Get a shop to check your evaporator temp sensor. It's likely reading -40F to the PCM. The PCM decides that's too cold for A/C, and denies the A/C request.

Could be's are all that I've got, I haven't got my hands on your car, and your symptoms are not enough to go on given the broad field you're playing on. Likeliest possibility is low charge, but you really need a why. Without that, you never really escape the problem. I don't treat symptoms, I solve problems, and that's why I wear an ASE Master patch on my uniform shirt. That is why I feel like you need to know the game to play it.

Here's what we use, and as far as A/C service goes, it's pretty basic. http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Cool-Tech-34988-AC-Recover-Recycle-and-Recharge-Machine-P159022.aspx?zmam=31282435&zmas=50&zmac=750&zmap=ROB34988&gclid=Cj0KEQjwoau9BRDMvsnv5MCh24UBEiQAKOqcfaslX6nVQOfT6MnX-nmH9RQnuYLYszta3kx7jkW7WoYaAsZH8P8HAQ From a purely diagnostic standpoint (for pressure) http://www.tequipment.net/Robinair/42216/HVAC-Manifolds/?Source=googleshopping&gclid=Cj0KEQjwoau9BRDMvsnv5MCh24UBEiQAKOqcfcgrBiLrKSIgneUBuAepCIJ5SVBsoFL6MDlx_-XRiVUaAu7R8P8HAQ If you couple this with a vacuum pump and a cylinder scale, you can work fairly well at home without a pro level machine. If you know what you're doing. I don't really have the patience to continue to preside over a class here on A/C Theory, diagnostics and service, but I'll tell you a little bit more. High side pressure can be low while low side is good if there is an orifice tube/expansion valve problem, it can be high if you have an obstruction (such as a receiver/dryer problem like a desiccant package rupture) or a "hot condenser" problem, which itself can be cause by a failed or failing cooling fan or accumulated debris between the condenser and radiator. High side tells you how the capacity of the system is coping with environmental conditions such as temperature and humidity, as well as how hard the compressor is laboring. High side will show you valve problems inside the compressor, and when the high side seems ok, it can give you insight into your overall charge level. Low side really only conveys info about the effectiveness or the evaporator and expansion device. If you've seen the pressure charts much, low side can be correlated to evaporator discharge temperature as well. Low side can help you determine if the clutch is over or under cycling which can help diagnose problems such as icing (evaporator under temp freezing it's own condensation). There's much more. Simply hooking up a can and adding refrigerant is like trying to shoot an apple off someone's head in the dark while wearing a blindfold and solving a Chinese finger puzzle. Please be mindful of the complexity of vehicle systems you intend to work on yourself, some are within the range of a home mechanic, but some are not. Knowing the difference can save you money, even when you think it's not.

Air in the system is an issue only if the system was dead. Once pressure equalized with atmosphere, you're exchanging with air and moisture. If the system wasn't dead, it's not a thing. What is a thing is that since it wasn't dead, you don't know how much refrigerant was already in there, so you don't know your total charge weight. I'm glad it's cold for you, but things worth doing are worth doing right, and at the very least you're dealing with a situation where you just don't have the equipment to do the job right. You can't judge an a/c system based on just the low side pressure, either. You have to be able to read the high side. Saving money is great, but there are somethings where the equipment and tools to diy are cost prohibitive. A can of r-134a in the hands of an average person is trouble.

DO. NOT. INSTALL. REFRIGERANT. YOURSELF. 1. You don't know how much is already in there and you can overcharge the system. 2. Off the shelf refrigerant cans can contain sealers, and sealers destroy A/C servicing machines. 3. If your system had NO refrigerant left, you've just added refrigerant to a system that has air in it. Air in a sealed A/C system is bad, mostly because air contains moisture and moisture in the system makes things go bang. You may have done more long term harm than good. Keep the can you charged, look it over for labeling that mentions sealers or stop-leaks. If indeed you have charged a sealer to your system, get ready for it to stop working and for it to cost around a grand and a half or more to flush it out and replace components that can't be flushed (expansion valve, compressor, receiver/dryer cartridge, any lines with baffles). If the can doesn't have sealer, take it with you to a shop with experienced and well certified technicians, and show them what you did. A lot of shops won't touch it if they know you charged who knows what to your system, because they don't want to pay $3000 to get their machine working again after a $150 A/C service wrecks it. If you don't have sealers and you can show them that, you've got a better chance. Keep in mind that most of what you're paying for when you're dealing with fixing cars is EXPERTISE, because competent labor is expensive both for you and for the shop. Think of a tech as a wholesale supplier of skilled labor, he sells to the shop at wholesale and they sell to you for retail. The better the product, the higher the price. This isn't something you can fix. The leak has to be found, sealed, and then the system has to be safely serviced to work well and last.

Sounds like perimeter lighting is active. Make sure there are no door ajar warnings, and that nobody has pressed unlock on one of the keys. Years ago, I had a customer report a similar concern only to find out that her spare key was in the bottom of her purse with a bunch of stuff stacked on it.

So what did they say when you took yours in? I'm assuming you did; after all, most reasonable people don't just jump straight to a lawyer (except maybe lawyers). If Ford can't fix it, your lawyer must be extremely talented with cars if he can. Maybe if you told us more of your story, we'd be more sympathetic to your anger. And you can't measure dicks with a mod and expect to be able to login later, just sayin.

That's a dead plug. It's where the ambient temp sensor would go if it was equipped, and no, simply plugging one in won't make it work.

As a point of clarification, that is the discharge line, sometimes referred to as the liquid line. It goes from the compressor to the condenser/dryer (the receiver/dryer is integrated into the condenser on this vehicle). If memory serves, however, as stated above it comes as part of the compressor manifold. If the system is flat empty, you can replace it yourself, as long as you install new o-rings (be sure to lube the o-rings in PAG oil, or Esther oil). You will still need a pro for recharging, and since the system has been dead all winter, request the technician to run an extra long vacuum cycle to ensure there is no moisture left inside.

Replace the blower and the connector (Ford will refer to the connector as a pigtail). All the power comes from the blower relay, and the speed is adjusted by the blower speed controller by varying the resistance of the ground. The blower motor is working on failing, it's internal resistance is causing increased draw, the increased draw makes more heat.