wayoutthere007

The motor was $400 and the install was $800. Less hours in labor than having the head pulled, sent out to be repaired and put back together. These engines are a dime a dozen. Even the 3.5 I have in my 12 Sport hovers around $500 for a lower mile engine. Why would you have work done at a dealership - it's the most expensive place you could have brought it to.

Oh man, I should have updated my results. The codes came back after the valve work and they put a scope in Cyl 1 and found it was a bad valve. They ended up swapping the motor as it was easier/cheaper than pulling the head and fixing. Problem solved. Pretty expensive but that was my issue.

I had this same problem and found this thread via search. Here's how I fixed mine without going to the dealer. Change BANK 2 - Option 1 to "tachless". This resolved the "4 honks" no remote start issue. The remote start works great again. Also - this is IMPORTANT - when changing the options there are no signals from the vehicle that the option has been changed during programming. I thought I was doing something wrong so I held the remote start fob for three seconds instead of just a quick press to change the option. That was bad as it reset the remote start to default settings and caused it to drop the tach programming. Hence the need to set it to "tachless" mode. Works fine now. Note: On my 2011 Fusion, when I accidentally reset BANK 1 - I initially got a "5 honks" no start error (Key In condition) and had to set BANK 1 - Option 3 to OFF.

Oh - and as a bonus - my average MPG has gone from 26 to 28.

Fixed. The car showed a couple of different codes - one being the crank sensor and another being the misfire on cylinder 1. They brought the car to Ford and they diagnosed it for a couple of days and said it was a mechanical problem on Cylinder 1 and recommended a replacement engine. Ford stated that when Cylinder 1 was under pressure they detected a leak from the exhaust. The car went back to my mechanic and he did a compression test and found Cylinder 1 was around 170 while the others were around 180 (don't quote me on the numbers). He put a feeler guage on each valve and found a tight valve on Cylinder 1 - all other valves were within specs. He pulled the inside cam and popped the shim bucket and they shaved it down to bring the valve clearance in spec. The mechanice said that Ford told him that the shim buckets are not labelled or numbered, they have to be individually measured to get a replacement. That's why they just shaved the one we had. My mechanic speculated that the valve seat insert wasn't perfectly seated and over time was pushed into the head which gave it too tight a clearance. The car idles and runs perfect again.

Mechanic said that it showed a code for the crank sensor. He's looking into that and will let me know.

I sprayed the intake with carb cleaner to see if it would smooth out the rough idle but it didn't seem to do that. I dropped it off to have a qualified mechanic take a peek. I'll let you know what he comes up with.

Will do. Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.

Update: I bought an OEM injector and replaced the #1 injector. Idle is still very rough and trips the CEL. So, it's not plugs, coil on plug, or injector. I did notice that a hose coming off the MAF area seems to be missing something at one end. Like a hold down or clamp is missing. Can you guys take a look at this pic and tell me if I'm missing something?

Well that's good to know - thanks. Saved me some time searching. I'll be doing two things first then: looking for any vacuum leaks and swapping the injectors from #1 and #2 and see if the code moves.

I did reset the code. Twice. It'll stay off for a short time. I can feel the miss, the idle gets rough, and then the CEL comes back on. On some other Ford products they mention not enough pressure to the injector. Possible fuel pump or fuel filter. My car has 120k on it and I bought it with 110K. I don't know if the fuel filter has ever been changed. I'll change that next even if for preventative purposes.

Yes it is. WTH was I thinking! # 1 is always nearest the front of the crank (ie pulleys). Anyway, I replaced the Coil pack and all the spark plugs. Still kicks a P0301 code on #1. Injector maybe??

My 2011 Fusion 2.5L engine kicked a P0301 code (Misfire) on Cylinder 1. I purchased a set of plugs and a new coil pack for it. I searched the manual and Wiki but can't seem to find out if Cylinder 1 is on the passenger side or the drivers side. I would expect it to be on the passenger side but want to be sure. Do any of you have a shop manual and can tell me?

I'm interested in the mats. How much would you take for them shipped to 04071? Thanks, Kevin

Remaining fob stopped working after a couple of days. Sent both back. Beware of ebay seller "keylessremotez" selling the square fob's for the 2011's. Off to find someone else that's reputable.

Got the new set of remotes today. Went through the programming steps and was able to get both remotes to lock/unlock the doors. Left the car and came back 3 hours later and only one of the remotes worked. Let's see how many work tomorrow. What the heck.

How did you remove the chrome grill pieces without removing the bumper?! I did this with my son last weekend and it's pretty easy to pop the whole bumper assembly off. I will say that the plastic studs don't last very long when trying to remove the self-tapping nuts. The only ones that survived was for the Ford emblem. In my case, we scuffed up the chrome pieces with 220 and then 400 grit sandpaper by hand, put a coat of primer on them, and then painted them with Dupli-color black metallic paint I picked up from NAPA. I was hoping to find a can of UT Tuxedo Black but they didn't have it. Finished them off with several coats of Dupli-color clear. I also popped off the fog light trim and painted them silver metallic with several coats of clear. It's pretty sad that Ford charges ~$100 per side for the chrome trim pieces. Looks great now! It took us about 30 minutes to remove the front bumper pieces and about the same time to put it back together. Well worth the effort.

The eBay seller "keylessremotez" didn't say wether they've seen this issue before or not. They just apologized and had me send them back to swap them out for another set. I'll let you know if the new set does the same thing.

I sent a note out to the eBay seller I got them from and see what they think. Thanks for the reply.

Hello, I just purchased a 2011 Fusion SE. It has Sync, sunroof, and remote start as main options. I picked up some "old school" Ford keys (SA) and a couple of the square type 4-button fob's for it. Not a real fan of the all-in-one key that came with it. I had Ford cut and program the second key and it works perfectly. Here's the issue, when I follow the directions to program the 4-button fob, it works correctly for about an hour then no longer works. IE, I program the fob and the door locks cycle like they should and I can use the 4-button fob to lock/unlock the doors. I went back after 30 minutes and watched the lights blink and horn honk when cycling the locks again. But if I try it the next day, the fob doesn't do anything and I have to go through the programming steps to get it to work again. As much as I like turning the ignition on 8 times in a row it's getting kind of old. Any ideas?