BlackTux

So, I have the old Sync v1 in a 2010 Fusion. Some MP3 files do not play or even show up when I browse the USB. None of the songs are DRM protected (all ripped from personal CDs). They all play on my company car (2017 Fusion), so I don't think it's a file format or type issue. I feel like these were working before but now they are not. I went ahead and re-formatted the USB drive and put my media back on it, but still no go. Anyone have an idea? Thanks, Grump

So, I have a similar issue...maybe. 2010 SE with 3.0 V6. Car stalled last week - just out of the blue. No warning, no troubles prior, just stopped. Cranks but won't start. Thought bad battery or alternator. Had it towed home and found serpentine belt damaged (not as bad is the OP) and replaced it. Still no start - cranks fine. The only DTC is P0320 (Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Sensor), which I understand is an electrical fault only. There are no other codes (0335, 0340 or 0345, 1335 or 1336 - nothing to indicate either the crank or cam position sensors are bad). Since I cannot find anything about an engine speed sensor specifically, I deduced this to be the circuit and went to the crankshaft position sensor (I believe there is only one, not two as is implied in earlier post) and replaced it. But problem still exists. I am very limited in funds (weddings and new grand-babies...) so before I go replacing the camshaft sensors, I need to see if/how they are tied in (I've been told they are part of the same circuit but can't verify), even though my research shows these probably won't cause this problem. In fact, this is what several sites say is the cause for P0320: - Faulty ignition/distributor engine speed sensor (is there one or is this referring to the circuit?) - Faulty crankshaft position sensor (replaced) - Open or shorted ignition/distributor engine speed sensor wiring, or bad connection (didn't find anything obvious) - Low battery charge (double checked battery is good) - Faulty ECM I assume these are listed in most likely to less likely. I cleaned and inspected the connectors, replaced the crankshaft position sensor, ensured battery is fully charged, inspected wiring and found no damage. If anyone has an idea and/or a wiring diagram for this car, that would be a huge help. If it's the ECM, how much does one cost and how difficult would it be to replace and have it programmed? Thanks for reading. Kind regards, Carl

It's been a few weeks and I forgot to update. The IPC I got from eBay was not the right one, even though they said it was and the picture sure looked like it, it was actually for a Focus. I have breakdown protection through my insurance company (didn't know until the wife pointed it out), which also covers electrical. So, had dealer run a diagnostic and they found the IPC was at fault. After a $250 deductable, I had a new IPC installed (this normally would cost - with diagnostic, new IPC, labor, and tax - about $720 out the door. So, keep that in mind if you ever have to do this. The dealer may need the car for a couple of days. They had to order the part and then send it out to get programmed. I never got why (since I assumed they could do it right there), but they kept the Fuse for three days. That's because I had the recall work done as well. So the car is happy and I'm only out a couple hundred bucks. Thanks everyone who responded. You guys were a huge help. Kind regards, Grumps

@drolds1 and Waldo: Never even considered disabling the car with different IPC. We have all been enlightened in a very critical way...Thanks!!! Will head to the dealer this weekend. @eGuru: You have been a huge help and I really appreciate it. Thanks for the diagrams- I think they will work. Will keep you all posted. Grumps

eGuru: Thanks again...and you are probably right. I could get it easier through an ebay or something like that. Car still at body shop and have IPC on order. Will post when I get it in and results. Grumps

eGuru: Thanks for the tip about reprogramming, didn't think of that. If I replace it, I assume the car is driveable so I can take it to get programmed (?). I have to get this thing in to the dealer anyway due to the recent recall on the evap module. I figure there very little difference regarding 2010-2012 wiring. Are you willing to part with this manual? I do not expect to sell this car anytime soon, so a comprehensive wiring diagram may be a good investment. Grumps

eGuru: Thanks for your response. I was kinda leaning towards the IPC but secretly hoping a misapplied plug was the culprit. I was going to see if I could disconnect the center display (since this was the only indication of a problem), but since it suddenly did start working, and I did remove its fuse which showed that it was not causing the current draw, it looks like the IPC. Is this hard to replace on the Fusion? I pulled the IPC out of the wife's PT Cruiser some time back to replace some bulbs and it seemed simple enough. Thanks, again for your help. If you (or anyone else reading this) has a decent wiring diagram for this car, I would really appreciate it. Grumps

Ok, been a while and this needs some background. I have arranged this as a daily log to help understand the sequence of events and actions performed. Please be patient! This is a 2010 SE with SYNC/Moonroof package. 3.0L with select shift auto, single CD, Sirrius, and base SYNC (no LCD or MyFord). Up until a couple weeks ago, absolutely no problems with this car. Day 1 About 5 degrees outside, car slow to crank but starts. Day 2 Same issue but still starts but now center display stuck on "Ford Fusion". Compass heading IS displayed, but no clock, no SYNC, and no audio Day 3 Battery dead, won't jump. Charged after work and car started, but still center display/no audio/no SYNC problem. Cleaned terminals Day 4 Battery dead. Assumed either audio control module (ACM) and/or SYNC module. Removed and checked fuses for radio, SYNC module, and 5V radio crank sense. I left fuses out Day 5 Battery dead. Autozone tested and said it was bad. Replaced battery and all fuses. Still center display/no audio/no SYNC issue, but no battery problems Days 6 - 9 Drove car for these four days without battery problem. Fender-bender on day 9 due to snow and parked car because of fender, hood and door damage Day 11 After parked for two days, battery dead. Removed and charged overnight Day 12 Performed battery current parasitic draw test. Initially, draw was 920 mA (0.92A). Let sit for 20 minutes to let FREDs go to sleep. Draw was then 520 mA (0.52A). Everything I've read (while finding nothing specific to this car) states draw should be between 20 and 35 mA (0.02A - 0.035A). Of course this varies by make, model, options, etc., but most agree that anything above 40 mA (0.04A) is suspect, while anything over 100 mA (0.1A) is definitely a problem. Note here that after messing around with ammeter a few times, turned key on to lower window and center display/audio/and SYNC came on like nothing ever happened. But current draw still too high, but less at 360 mA (0.36 A) So, with ammeter connected, began pulling interior fuses one at a time until current draw fell to within what I considered acceptable, which is between 20 and 35 mA (0.02 A - 0.035 A). Only got 10 fuses out until I located the circuit. This is fuse 26 (10A) and identified as "Instrument Panel Battery Power". Started putting all fuses back in one at a time except that one 10A. Draw only went up to 20 mA (0.02 A) and never increased. As soon I put fuse 26 back in, current draw spiked to 360 mA (0.36A). Removed fuse and draw settled back down to ~20 mA. With the fuse out, the car will start and run but no idiot lights, no gages, no center display/audio/SYNC, no passive alarm light blinking with car off. All other accessories work fine. My conclusion is that there must be an interface between the instrument panel and the center display. I conclude this because 1) it was working before I removed the fuse in question, and 2) the compass heading is no longer displayed. And since the display was the first thing to go out in the first place, there has to be a correlation here. So the problem appears to lie in the instrument panel, its wiring, and/or the interface (if one exists) between it and the center display. WHEWWW! Several requests: Does anyone here have a good electrical diagram that would show this (or a wiring diagram for this car, particularly one showing the instrument panel-ACM-SYNC-instrument panel interconnects)? Has anyone experienced this themselves? Is there a savvy Ford tech on here that can help to isolate the problem and perhaps advise as to how to fix it? I know modern instrument panels are basically circuit boards, but there are several connections to it. If I can isolate the connected component as the actual misfit causing the battery drain, that would be awesome (understanding that it could end being the instrument panel itself that needs replacing). But if its a bad plug or wire, then I can fix it. Thank you everyone for your patience. Grumps

Maybe a little late to this game. My Fusion started this last winter but was barely noticeable. This winter, it started again but seems to go away after a couple blocks. I've done the whole purge thing and that hasn't done much. Right now it's not so bad, like some of the others here (crossing fingers). My car is one of the earlier 2010s (we bought in August of 2009) and it is the 3.0 V6. It has 66K miles (yes, we drive a lot!), and the gurgling sound was never present until last winter when the car had about 48K on it. So.....it appears this usually occurs in cars with the I4 engines and early on. But I've seen a couple posts from people with V6's and my car has 66K. Anyway, that's my history and was wondering if anyone has found and answer? Thanks