BlueOval2010

Looks great Lukifer ! I recently traded in my 2010 Sport on a 2020 F-150 STX. I love the truck but I miss the Sport.

The easy thing to try is to disconnect the battery to power down the computers. Wait a few minutes, connect the battery and see if that clears the problem. Anytime something goes screwy with the electronics in my '10 Sport that's the first thing I try. Also, weird things happen when the battery starts to fail - maybe have it tested. Hope this helps & good luck!

Steeda used to offer, and may still, a throttle lag booster. I forget what it was called but I believe it plugged into the OBD connector. It reduced or eliminated throttle lag. I also came across discussions that the throttle lag was necessary for automatic transmissions to prepare the tranny for heavy or full throttle response. In other words, you're rolling down the road at 35 and you decide to kick it in the ass. The computer sends some hocus pocus to the tranny then boom, away you go. I'll be interested in the comments from others because my 2010 sport takes a real nap when I send it to the floor. Good luck!

My 2010 has rust issues around the chrome trim insert on the trunk lid. I fix it about once a year so it does not get out of hand. The body forward and above the rear wheel openings has issues too. I've seen this on mine and several other Fusions and Lincoln versions of this generation. I actually cut metal out of mine and patched it twice and it's busting out again. I think the plastic wheel well liner traps dirt/salt against the inside of the fender and it slowly rots it away. That aside, just pray the water pump never fails as it's inside the engine and the only way to replace it is the drop the engine/front clip out of the bottom of car, which is the reverse process of the way it was assembled. Couple grand to fix so I'm told. Good luck!

We had a similar or same issue with my daughter's 2014 1.6L Ecoboost Escape. It was using coolant and had misfires on cylinders 2 & 3. Dealership said the head was cracked and needed to be repaired with the new design cylinder head , on our dime of course. They took the engine apart and said the block was cracked, not the head. Dealer could not get a new short block because they were all dedicated for new production. We settled for a dealer installed rebuilt engine from a local supplier - $4300. Ours was the fourth 1.6L engine they have recently replaced, and they have two more in the shop for the same reason. Ford is having issues to say the least. Good luck.

Mine went down into the forward wheel well area out the bottom of the air box.The part that runs out to the top of the radiator is the air intake. I left it in place. I think that's what you're referring to. I'll take a photo if I can find it - it's ugly as heck.

If you want to add to the effect, remove the resonator tube from the bottom of the air filter box. The engine intake noise becomes crazy at wot. I dropped a bolt down under the air intake box on my sport and had to remove it to get the bolt. I took the resonator off to make it easier to get back together. I've driven the car for a couple years and never had any problems without it. No water or excess dirt gets in the box.

Just a long shot but my daughter's 2014 1.6L EB Escape is in the shop now with a cracked cylinder head. This is the same issue as the 1.0 & 1.5L engine failures and are now showing up on the 1.6L. In an low coolant condition the cylinder head overheats and cracks which allows the head to warp, stressing the block which can cause it to crack. Ford issued Safety recall 17S09 to install coolant level sensor to let you know something bad is about to happen. We had the SB work done a couple years ago. My daughter was driving the car a couple weeks ago and the low coolant light came on. She drove the car about 300 feet after the light came and pulled into a service station and shut it down, but it looks like the cylinder head damage was done. We're looking at installing a new long-block which is supposed to have the "fix" for this known problem, but of course Ford is not picking up the tab although they are for European 1.6L engines. You may want to see if your car had the recall work performed. Our Ford service manager told me if the recall wasn't performed a low coolant condition could cause the block to crack and blow coolant & oil on to the exhaust resulting in a fire - and you may not even be aware there was an issue. Good luck and hope you fare better than us.

Yep - my 2010 Sport has rust in all areas noted above. I've been fighting it every year for the last 4 years.

I can't answer this for certain, but usually pin 1 is closest to the indexing key on the plug. If it has one!

My 2010 Sport is rusting badly on the body fender radius directly forward of the left rear tire. I had it at the dealership to get the pass. side air bag replaced and asked for an estimate to fix the rust and repaint the entire vehicle. They don't fix rust and their solution was to cut off and replace the entire left rear quarter panel - $6000 +. I did not schedule the work needless to say.

Be careful with USAA - I hear they push non-OEM parts and remanufactured (from damaged) bumper covers. Maybe not in your case, but you may want to ask the question - if you haven't already. Good luck.

I found that Rust-oleum High Performance wheel paint is almost a perfect match for my 2010 Sport wheels. It's the Custom Shop label, silver color. I had some serious road rash so I was painting entire spokes. A little clear coat to top it off, and it looks great.

My 2010 Sport is at Roush Ford now for oil change, (full synthetic), engine coolant change, and trans oil change. $435 for all. The oil change is $79 which is a little high for my area, but at least I won't have to worry about the knuckleheads at Valvoline stripping out my oil pan plug, or having to take it back so they can finish tightening the oil filter. I usually do my own work, but with 4 vehicles in my family it's getting to be too much. I told my kids they're own there own from now on!

If you can get decent parts from the yard then that's the route to go. Sounds like you have the experience, so parts you actually examine should be a sure bet and you'll save some beer money! Good luck and let us know how it turns out.