wrbrower

Just wanted to say thanks. Printed out your post and all went well. Start to finish was exactly as long as the 2009 Star Trek movie. Typically I run a seat cushion on the driver's side. What I thought was a smudge on the seat was actually a burn mark - same spot. LESSON LEARNED - I will not kneel on the seat bottom while cleaning the car, just in case. ~Bill

Worked well. Digging out the module was not pleasant. Moving the fuse box and PCM was a must. I ran out of time else I was going to troubleshoot the module. Since that wire gets held low I suspect a drain-to-source short on a MOSFET.

Better solution than clipping wires:

It is a known issue. The ballasts start with a power spike to the bulbs to strike an arc. The belief is a spike feeds back through the SJB to the wiper control. After thinking deeper into this if someone is having an issue with the autolamps staying on when they should not unplugging C2157 temporarily should allow the autolamps to function normally - assuming the light sensor is working properly.

I read a post where the Autolamps stayed on during the day after someone installed HID headlights. I know my dash mounted light sensor is working because my dash lights brighten and dim as I go between light and dark ambient light. The post reminded me that the Autolamps turn on when the wipers are turned on. What I expect to find on my car is the white wire is pulled to ground even when the wipers are off. I will try looking deeper into this on my car later. Normal Operation The Smart Junction Box (SJB) sends a 12 volt reference signal on circuit CRW01 (WH) to the wiper motor module in order to monitor the status of the wipers. When the headlamp control switch is in the AUTOLAMP position and the wipers are on, the wiper motor module will pull the voltage reference signal low. After 3 seconds, the SJB will activate the headlamps. In other words: The SJB sends a current limited, 12V signal to the wiper control box. When the wipers go on the wiper control box pulls the white wire to ground. Options: 1) You can either replace the wiper control box (about $100) to restore original functionality but you lose being able to use HIDs. 2)The cheap route would be to clip the white wire, allowing the signal out of the SJB to float back up to 12V and your autolamp function should return - and you can keep your HIDs. However you lose the headlights turning on automatically during the day when the wipers go on. 3) You can replace the wiper control box and put a relay where your headlights would be powered, run +12V BATT through the relay and then power your HIDs with battery power. Note: After thinking deeper into this if someone is having an issue with the autolamps staying on when they should not unplugging C2157 (connector to the wiper control module) temporarily should allow the autolamps to function normally - assuming the light sensor is working properly. Hope this helps someone - this has been driving me nuts for years. Attached are the pictures you can use to verify this scenario. UPDATE: Tasca Ford sells them for under $45 - but with supposedly a $50 core charge??? You can check for yourself: http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/9e5z14b205a Bill

Ford told me I have a split in one of my rear driveline boots. Any reason I cannot run without a driveline temporarily while I fix it? Do I need to pull the AWD fuse (if such a thing exists) or will the car even notice if there is no wheel spin? I'll index the positions so it will go back with the same orientation. Thanks! Bill

I totalled up parts and labor. About $3500. My dealer knew what was wrong and they had the parts pre-ordered after the initial checkout. They nailed it - zero issues after 30 days. It was about four days.

They overhauled the transmission, flushed the converter for contamination, flushed the cooling lines, overhauled the main valve assembly (replaced solenoid body), replaced planetary gear assembly, replaced some drive clutches and plates (OD, direct and FWD frictions), and 10 quarts of tranny fluid. They also left my external oversize tranny cooler in place. I am very pleased about the work they did and all within 5 days. So far it is a different car.

Dealership called. Said they found pinched tranny cooling lines due to an earlier accident and said the flow was very restricted. They gave me the option of replacing them at my cost (they are over $400) and I told them I would gladly pay it. I am just so fortunate they didn't void the warranty claim based on what they found with the damaged lines.

My 2010 Fusion has the classic missed downshift and RPMs get pegged. From my research this is some sort of issue possibly with the valve body. Rumor has it the valve body bores were machined too large. When the valve body gets hots (expands) fluid blows past the pistons thus a missed shift. For anyone I would recommend an external transmission cooler inline with the factory unit. Check with Ford but I believe as long as the external cooler is INLINE there is no warranty issue. Even if the car has 10 miles on it, and as long as the warranty is not voided, I would install an external cooler. I got one from NAPA. The little application picture on the bottom showed a truck hauling a camper and a boat. That should be large enouigh . I'll cover it in the winter. I haven't missed any shifts since I installed the external cooler but it usually only shows up on long trips. I just found out my Fusion has a 5 Year, 60K mile power train warranty. I have three months, 2500 miles to get mine fixed so it is going in tomorrow. They didn't seem to balk at my external cooler. The mechanic did some sort of static test and has pre-ordered the parts so I have an above average feeling he knows what is wrong already. Wish us luck, Bill

Note this will disable the PATS system allowing you to use non-encoded keys and remote start system without a PATS bypass module. First - some notes: 1) This involves stashing a working PATS key in your steering column - this will defeat the Ford security system. 2) Whatever tools you use (Philips Screwdriver and a Torx Bit) keep them in your trunk. If this key becomes dislodged or moves out of position you cannot start you car with your non-PATS key -OR- if your have a second PATS key stash it in your trunk. 3) If your PATS key is properly stashed under your ignition cover, and you try to use your other PATS keys - the car probably won't start. Two PATS keys in working proximity will scramble the code reader and the car will not start. If you do this mod you will need to use non-PATS keys to star the vehicle. ============================================================ Fun begins here: 1) Go make some copies non-PATS key copies of your ignition key. 2) Remove the steering column cover. 3) Wedge the PATS key under the electric tab the goes to the PATS sensor. This will take a lot of finagling to get it positioned just right. Test the positioning by trying to start the car with your new non-PATS key. 4) Once the car starts reliably with the non-PATS key, tape the wedged PATS key firmly in place with electrical tape. 5) Test the starting again using the non-Pats key. 6) Car fails to start - go back to Step 4, else go to Step 7. 7) Assemble, but do not screw together the two steering column cover halves. 8) Test the starting again using the non-Pats key. 9) Car fails to start - go back to Step 4, else go to Step 10. 10) Screw together the two halves of the steering column cover. 11) Test the starting again using the non-Pats key. 12) Car fails to start - go back to Step 4, else go to Step 13. 13) You are done - go install your remote starter or just enjoy not having to spend $200+ at the dealership. I repeat - keep the tools you needed to do this in your car in case the key moves out of position. This has never happened to me but anything is possible. AND/OR keep a PATS key stashed in the car. You can use the second PATS key to start the car without taking off your steering wheel cover if the car will not start. Sorry about the small picture - the board is limiting my upload size. Cheers- Bill

The factory code is located on a module, under the driver's side dash, left of center. You'll need an inspection mirror and a flashlight. The code is above a connector and cannot be viewed directly. That's why a lot of people can't find it. It took me three tries to figure it out. Regards- Bill