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The transmission in my 2010 Fusion has taken a turn for the worse... I've been traveling out of town for work more than usual over the past month or so. Last week, I noticed the trans doing a little flare at highway speeds when on cruise control. I thought this was weird since it rarely flared while the transmission fluid was warm like that before. I didn't really think much of it since it seemed to operate OK and did fine in the city for the most part. Yesterday, I left town again. As I was about 30 miles away from home, the transmission started flaring worse than it has ever before. It would then slam into gear giving a violent jolt that would make the headliner and the windshield creak and make other terrible sounds. During this time, there was a loud whining sound coming from the transmission I assume. I pulled over for a minute and tried accelerating on the interstate again. This time, it operated smoother than it normally does (usually it had a hard 2-3 shift). The whining noise was gone. It seems like my transmission is overheating. I took it to the Ford dealer and they deny there is any kind of problem with it. I'm debating on what to do from here, but I want to contact Ford corporate before my power train warranty expires. Current mileage is around 48,000. My transmission was rebuilt last year, and then ultimately replaced due to a failed repair attempt. So this is effectively my 4th transmission. Edit: I've been thinking the hard 2-3 shift I've experienced for a year was due to a heat issue, since it seems directly related to the temperature of the transmission fluid. It takes longer for the 2-3 hard shift to show up in the winter weather than it does in the summer, and after sitting overnight I can drive 15-20 minutes before it starts kicking in. I think the 6F35 has a trans cooler, perhaps there is a design flaw there, too?

You likely won't ever see a problem if it's brand new. The most problematic units included the 2010-2012 model years.

2010-2012 model years seem to be the most widely affected. I've heard a few reports of the 2013+ model years experiencing problems with the transmission as well, although the end result was not clear so there are no conclusive findings on these that I'm aware of. Additionally, 2008+ model year Ford Escapes were affected, along with 2010+ Mercury Milans and 2009+ Mercury Mariners. Basically any vehicle with that generation of 6F35. You'll know when you drive one of those with a problem, it will be pretty obvious.

Well the first step would be to have the battery load tested... I suggest you do this at the dealer or wherever you purchased the battery from. Your symptoms, to me, sound like it could be in the SJB (smart junction box). This is a dealer repair. Depending on how many miles are on the clock, the repair could be covered under factory powertrain warranty.

I replaced the belt on my 2010 2.5 and the noise went from being present under light load A/C on to making the noise when I start the car first thing in the morning with the A/C on idling in Drive. It's been a month now since the belt replacement and the noise has not changed at all. It's a lot less annoying now... I guess it has something to do with the belt/tensioner/pulleys. Go figure.

A "rough" idle is subjective. Is the check engine light on, or has it been flashing? Flashing indicates a misfire. Grab an OBD-II scan tool or go to your local auto parts store and ask them to borrow theirs. Check for any stored codes. I'd address the transmission concern first. Have you checked the fluid? Refer to the owner's manual for the proper fluid level checking procedure... (engine running, warmed up, in park - level ground). Grab a clean paper towel to check the color/condition of the fluid. The fluid should not smell burnt or have any floating particles. You still have coverage under your manufacturer's warranty. Since it was certified pre-owned, you have a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty which is more than Ford's standard 5 year/60,000 mile warranty. Take it back to your dealer and politely ask if you can have a service manager go for a ride with you. They have to be able to reproduce the concern before attempting a repair. Do a search for "6F35" on the forums and you'll find plenty of information on this transmission. A word of caution: take everything with a grain of salt. I doubt that your throttle body is causing any kind of driveability concern. The typical mode of failure for this throttle body is to put the car in "limp home mode," which your concerns do not indicate. What shifts exhibit the worst symptoms? Is there consistently a hard shift between the same gears? Is there a delayed engagement when selecting "D" or R" on the gear selector? Are there any abnormal sounds? Regarding your ABS concern: i'm not sure why you think the ABS isn't working properly. Can you elaborate? The purpose of ABS is to allow the driver to remain directional control of the vehicle during an emergency stop event. Various sensors determine whether or not ABS needs to kick in. Dealing with issues on any car is frustrating, and dealerships may not always have the ears to listen. However you have to realize that the Ford dealers get paid for doing warranty work, so it really is in their best interest to service you. If you are not receiving satisfactory service, I suggest you get in contact with the shop foreman or another service manager before escalating things to Ford corporate. Good luck and keep us posted.

Interesting. Mine makes a whirring sound while coasting, even if I'm in neutral. I'm not worried about it, as it has not gotten worse and isn't really that noticeable. Is this a noise that you think you could capture on video?

How many miles on your car? Good starting place would be to use an OBD-II scan tool to check for any stored codes, even if the check engine light is not on. From what you've described, I wouldn't be too worried. If the feeling goes away in less than a second, the chances of it causing any kind of damage is minimal.

I'm running Redline D6 in my 2010 Fusion. Marginal improvement in shift quality. My understanding is that the Redline D6 just has a few more additives to make it a more "aggressive" fluid. You could probably achieve the same results by filling with Mercon LV and dumping a bottle of Lubegard in.

The PCM on vehicles equipped with the 6F35 also contains the TCM. On the Fusion Sport, however, the AWF21 has a dedicated TCM. I assume the PCM calibration includes the transmission programming on 6F35 vehicles. The Sport probably has additional programming, but the PCM calibration probably also includes the latest TCM calibration.

Does the noise seem to come more from the driver's side front than the passenger's side? I think I have the noise too, but it sounds more like water running through pipes or a swishing noise than it does jingling keys. My transmission makes some interesting noises as well. It emits a high pitched whine when coasting, especially noticeable when "L" is selected on the gear shift. I assume we're just hearing the trans pump Edit: It's odd that your noise disappears when you're coasting. I kind of hear a swishing/water noise when applying positive pressure to the accelerator. When I coast, I hear the whine... Very interesting. MTLFusion2010: Would you be able to record the noise and post it to YouTube so we can hear what you're talking about? I'll try and record my sound tonight.

Glad to hear you fixed the problem. Did you happen to re-check fuel trims after replacing the O ring? Ideally, fuel trims should be as close to zero as possible

Yikes. You mentioned that you had switched to 89 octane gas, after which you experienced an improvement in shift quality. This is the first report I've seen outside of those with the 3.0L flex-fuel V6 that an octane change improved shift quality...very interesting. That whining noise doesn't sound normal to me. Since you're well within the factory warranty, why don't you take it to the dealer and see what they have to say. Good luck to you!

I would disconnect the remote starter completely. It's hard to know, especially since you are not the one who installed it. Who knows what was put in, and the mess of wires is just a recipe for more problems. How soon after turning off the car did you run this test? Some vehicles take a while for the various systems to completely shut down and stop using power

As noted earlier, make sure that the valve body is of the latest revision. Trust me, you'll thank yourself in about 10,000 miles