Seething

Boat Racer - Are there no wires at all coming from the 'enclosed box' and going into the back of the mirror? My 2012 also has a black box mounted on the windshield, but there is a small bundle of wires that plug into the back of the mirror.

2012 Fusion Sport with approx 13K miles - There is some sort of 'buzzing' coming from under the hood, right around 2Krpm. I'll be taking it to the dealer in the next couple of weeks for that. In addition, one of the door combo pads doesn't light up as brightly as the other ones (just happened a few days ago). Those are the only two items on my list.

Yup. Blue was12v+ and black/yellow was 12v~. Putting the car in reverse has no effect on the power supply. Incidentally, if anyone is interested, when you unplug the power to the mirror there is a white cover on the "front" (female) part of the plug. Removing the cover makes it really easy to stick your voltmeter probes in. The Blendmount stuff is obscenely expensive, but it's really well made and very nice looking. It's a PITA to get those pins stuck into the back of the plug, but I finally got em in tight. I'm very happy. My V1 looks like a factory install.

Jona - thanks for the info. I got the V1 the other day and have been using the suction cups for now. It's too dark after work to attempt the wiring job. I have to wait until Friday to work on that. I'll report back when if/when I get it done.

FWIW, I think you're going for overkill running full synthetic oil *and* changing more frequently than called for. With my vehicles, I typically change oil and filter every 3K to 4K miles, and I use a synthetic blend. I would describe the demands on my vehicles as "moderate" (some spirited driving combined with commuting and trips to the grocery store). Now, I have toyed with the idea of running full synthetic and changing oil/filter every 5K or so, but I wouldn't run full synthetic and dump it more often than necessary (unless I was frequenting autocross competitions every weekend or something). Just my $.02.

I can't really help you, but that sounds like a sensor or something that's going bad. I had a similar problem when I owned a T-Bird Turbo Coupe. Fortunately for me, right after it started happening (random stalls and high idling) Ford issued a voluntary recall and replaced the offending part at no charge.

I totally agree. IMO, anyone buying a car (new or used, dealer or private party) should be suspicious if both keys aren't available. Nice that you had the integrity to make a special trip to deliver the second key to your Camry. Not a lot of people would go to that trouble.

I think PublicHair is correct. If both keys start the car, then they both have active chips in them and you should be able to program another key for the car (in theory). Let us know if it works, and I'd like to hear your opinion of the aftermarket key. I got both original keys when I bought my CPO Fusion, but I want to get another key programmed and I don't really want to buy a Ford factory key if there's a quality third-party key I can get for a lot less.

Thank you very much. I should have searched more before posting my question. It seems that he's not an active member anymore. I was disappointed that his pix were gone and there is no way to tell if he had back-up cam.

I should have mentioned that my mirror also has the back-up cam.

I am wondering if there is a wiring diagram available for the auto-dimming mirror in my 2012 Fusion Sport. I just ordered a BlendMount for my Valentine One radar detector, and I'm hoping someone can help me tap into a switched positive lead (as well as a ground) in the plug in the back of the mirror. I ordered the BlendMount pigtail for tapping into the mirror's power, but I just know it'll be a serious b*tch if I have to get up there with a voltmeter and try to figure out which wires to tap. I'm crossing my fingers in hopes that 1) someone here has done this already and can tell me which wires to tap into or 2) someone happens to have access to a wiring diagram that will tell me which wire colors to look for. Any help would be appreciated.

I didn't see an "electrical" forum, so I'm posting this here... I am wondering if there is a wiring diagram available for the auto-dimming mirror in my 2012 Fusion Sport. I just ordered a BlendMount for my Valentine One radar detector, and I'm hoping someone can help me tap into a switched positive lead (as well as a ground) in the plug in the back of the mirror. I ordered the BlendMount pigtail for tapping into the mirror's power, but I just know it'll be a serious b*tch if I have to get up there with a voltmeter and try to figure out which wires to tap. I'm crossing my fingers in hopes that 1) someone here has done this already and can tell me which wires to tap into or 2) someone happens to have access to a wiring diagram that will tell me which wire colors to look for.

I drove a used 2013 Fusion SE with the 2.0 and was reasonably impressed. The new Ford engines are much better than the turbocharged cars I've owned in the past (i.e. a T-Bird TurboCoupe and a Saab Turbo), but I expected significant improvements over powerplants designed decades ago. Are you just asking whether we think you should end your lease early? Is it a foregone conclusion that you'll get a 2014 sooner or later? Or, are you trying to decide whether to keep your Sport after the lease is over? FWIW, after looking at a couple of used 2013 Fusions, I ended up buying a CPO 2012 Fusion Sport.

JediBoy - Yes, I am seriously enjoying the powerplant in this car. I don't necessarily agree that older Ford V6 engines were all bad. I've got a 96 Ranger with a 3.0 that's still running strong after 140K miles. My neighbor has a V6 Mustang approaching 80K miles and he's never had a drivetrain problem. Ford may have built some questionable engines, but my (somewhat limited) experience with their V6 powerplants has been good overall.

Man, that's a very nice vehicle! I'm seriously envious...