samturner36

If the car with automatic transmission can be shift into neutral at 70 mph while engine is running, the safety features should also be present then. It can also be tested out easily.

These links didn't work when I clicked them. Maybe the electronics are not as simple as I think. I know some cars have neutral/park rev limit of about 3000, but it's more than 6000 for Fusions. Why can't we just ground the park or neutral wire so that the PCM won't expect any input from the tranny? Is it possible that with stock tune the car can't even run with auto tranny disconnected? Or, maybe even though we can rev up the engine in park or neutral, there will be problems with manual tranny engaged? Is there a way that we can find systematic info on the logic design? I have an alldatadiy.com account, but I don't think I can find this kind info there. Experimenting is not so safe, not to mention it's time-consuming.

It seems that James didn't get the tune right. The shift was still harsh. I have returned the tune to stock, and will take the car to deal for a check up soon. Some people said the dealer can disable adaptive shift. I think I would ask them to do that. I will also try Redline si 1 which works for some people.

I saw some people posted about the idea of MS3/MS6 powertrain swap, but did not find anyone succeeded. Can you find the MS6 trans swap thread? If it works, Gen2 MS3 trans should even be better. I believe Cougars have MTX75 trans. MTX75 and A65M-R are the only two manual trans I have seen people successfully used with Duratec V6 3.0, but I am not sure if bellhousing bolt pattern changed for G1.5 Fusion V6 3.0. Here are photos I found. It seems that they do not match. If it's as simple as I think, it can be done with just hundreds of bucks. The problem is that sometimes there can be unexpected problems. Without actually looking at the parts planned to use, we cannot say it will definitely work based on information online. Most people are just afraid of wasting money if it doesn't work, while people with enough money to experiment are not interested in such projects, so there are so many threads talking about ideas but getting nowhere. Sometimes it may not be as hard as people think. If I have enough money, help and a place to do the swap, I would like to find out how difficult a trans swap in a Fusion is. The safe way to do it is to go to a junk yard having all the parts and find out if they match in person. I just found that Ford changed small things between model years, which may render an otherwise simple project difficult. For example, they changed Flywheel/Flexplate bolt pattern from 8 bolts for Gen1 to 6 bolts for Gen1.5 v6 3.0 Fusions. It would be nice if we can easily use a more enjoyable transmission to replace the problematic 6f35, but it's just that most people just want to wait until someone figures it out and writes up a guide that they will read and then decide whether it's worth doing. However, sometimes that someone never appear.

Since automatic transmission cars can coast in neutral with engine on, a possible solution is to ground the neutral wire of the automatic shifter when the engine is runing. Then the engine can be controlled by gas pedal and PCM won't expect transmission inputs.

I just found that Duratec 2.5 and 3.0 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern.https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Ford_bellhousing_patterns So, G6M may work with V6 3.0, but I don't know if gear ratios are suitable for V6.

I was talking about A65M-R from Mazda, which is mated to V6 3.0 in Gen1 Mazda6. Some people used Fusion V6 3.0 to replace the MZI v6 3.0 with manual transmission. It proves that they can match. I am pretty sure that some people managed to solve the transmission input problems using resistors or custom tunes. As for OP, I think it's a much simpler process. Just remove the 6F35 and trans cooling lines and swap in the parts from manual I4 2.5L, and maybe a tune.

I know it's an old thread, but I am now also researching the possibility of swapping 6f35 to a manual transmission. My car is 2012 Fusion V6 3.0, so the options are different, but I think the electronic part is similar. I might be wrong, but I think the electronic part is much simpler than the mechanical part, including changing the shifter, transaxle, clutch pedal assembly, coolant line rerouting, etc. It may be hard to do the swap the other way around, because automatic transmission requires many inputs from engine, which is not the case in manual transmission. I believe engines do not receive any electronic inputs from transmissions in our cars. They change RPMs simply because gears are changed, which is the same in manual and automatic cars. The difference is just how the gears are changed. In manual cars, at least it's the case for G6M and A65M-R, gears are changed mechanically through shift cables. As long as we can control the RPMs of the engine through gas pedal, the car certainly can run, because it's the driver who decides whether and which specific gears are engaged. You can test this by simply disconnect connectors of 6F35 to see if you can still rev up the engine when you shift into drive or reverse. I checked the A65M-R transmission that I might be using, and I only found three connectors, neutral and reverse switches and a speed sensor. I am not sure if the speed sensor from Mazda is compatible with fusion, but the wires of neutral and reverse switches can be used as inputs to replace those from shifter of automatic transmission. Besides that, it may be as simple as just grounding the park wire of the automatic shifter, so that you can start the car. I don't think it's necessary to change gauge cluster. Because I have remote starter on my car, I think it's better to design a circuit that park wire is only grounded when the manual shifter is in neutral and parking brake is engaged. To make "D" of the gauge work, a circuit can be designed to energize the wire when the shifter is not in reverse or neutral. This way the only thing that doesn't work on the gauge cluster is the "M" or "L". I am not sure if cruise control will work though. I think it's possible that it will work, but gears need to be manually changed when the RPM is not in desired range. The other concern is whether the PCM will still try to compare information about RPMs, speed, gears, and go nuts when the combination is not what it expects. Even if that is the case, a tuner may solve the problem easily. Did I miss anything?

Plan to either install a custom turbo kit or return the car to stock and sell it. Have about 4000 miles on the intake. In very good condition. Having all the parts including removable insert and cleaning kit. Please make an offer on ebay if anyone is interested. http://www.ebay.com/itm/121666280147?item=121666280147&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

It seems that it's very popular among Mustang owners to reset lousy adaptive transmission every a few weeks. I wonder if it also helps for Fusions. If it is worth doing, what is the preferred way to do it? Of the three methods I mentioned in the title, do all of them require relearn (idle several minutes, turn on AC for one minute, then drive 10 miles)? I tried to use SCT X4 to reset KAM, but it throws CEL with DTC p1639. Maybe bricking the car is also a concern. Disconnecting battery definitely requires relearn, and it also resets radio and may cause other problems. Pulling a fuse seems to be the best way to me. What is the counterpart in Fusion of fuse 47 of Mustang?

I got a tune from James for my 2012 Fusion V6 3.0 FWD. He then sent me two revised ones on my request. I was hoping to get better shift quality while gaining power. However, from following pictures, it seems that he might have messed the shift up? The torque source change is very regular for stock tune, but it's not for James' tune. Stock James1 James2 James3

I asked James to modify the tune. Now the shift RPMs are lower and the car can run even smoother and faster. Maybe it's just that Ford's program for 6f35 sucks.

The ones I mentioned are all synthetic. D6 is not approved by Ford, so it may cause warranty issues. It's your decision anyway.

I wonder if higher shift RPMs indicate the transmission is less efficient at delivering power from the engine. What should I look at in the datalog to find out if there are potential transmission problems?

Maybe it's different for different places, but my definition is the acceleration that won't annoy drivers around you. For speed limit of 35 or 40 mph, it cannot be a big range.