andyross

That was good luck. The only issue I remember with the blower motors is that the bearings would start chattering and chirping.

The blower motor is usually fine. It's the contacts in the connector that plug into the resistor that overheat and melt the housing, causing poor contact. That melted plastic can coat the resistor contacts, or cause oxidation. There is a connector repair kit that has a new connector with tighter connectors, and possibly better plastic that can stand the heat. The new connector does require cutting the old connector off (ONE lead at a time) and soldering to the new connector's pigtail. If you unplug the connector at the resistor, look at the connector to see if you see a melted connector. If so, it needs replacement. You MIGHT be able to get some extra life if you remove and look at the contacts in the resistor, and you can scrape off any melted plastic. I had 2011 Fusion SEL that started doing that. I bought a replacement resistor and the connector, but never got around to replacing it. I had cleaned the contacts and with some careful adjustments, it worked 99% of the time. I have since sold the car, but still have the parts. The connector is Motorcraft WPT-1285.

Window glass can be replaced...

Change the car battery. Depending on the build date, it is 3-4 years old, which is about the life of a car battery these days.

There would be AC, engine, and transmission. The AC and engine radiators are typically about the same size and in-line with each other. The transmission would be smaller, and often has a connection to a second cooler/warmer in the engine radiator.

I have a 2022 Hyundai Elantra. Nav updates are free.

The mods need to STOP THE SPAM! IF needed, impose post count limits for awhile if simply blocking accounts doesn't work. I was forced to just mark all read as I wasn't going to scroll through hundreds of SPAM posts to find the real ones.

It may be a good idea to see what the value of the car is. You can check the value assuming it wasn't broken first. If it costs more to repair than the value, then it may not be worth fixing it. You can probably get some money from a dead car from a junkyard or similar.

Could even be a leaky injector causing a cylinder to get flooded while off.

If you know where it is, maybe start with a simple check for any loose connectors or damaged wires. Even a simple unplug/replug may fix possible corrosion problems.

Many sources show the 96R as a replacement. Some checking shows it is just 3/8" wider than the 67R. Will it fit in the tray or whatever is used to hold the battery? I don't have immediate access to the car right now to check, as it's nearly an hour drive to the house.

My father has a 2012 Fusion Hybrid. He is currently in assisted living now, and is unlikely to be driving again. The car has been sitting in the garage at the house. I have occasionally driven it, but it recently sat too long and the 12V battery died. I checked, and he had written a date on it, sometime in 2018. So it's due for a replacement anyways. I did try charging it up, but didn't have too much time to really fully charge it. After about 2-3 hours, it did power up, but gave a bunch of weird errors, and then the display went blank. The engine itself never started. The battery in there now is a Motorcraft BXT-67R. I get mixed part numbers if I search online for what belongs in the car. Any good ideas on a battery? I do see the same battery for around $135 or so at various places nearby. Also, any good trickle chargers or similar? The car will probably be eventually sold, but would like to keep the battery topped up. Also, this does not have the updated software or battery age fakeout, so the hybrid feature is barely more than start-stop.

I'd think it would be much more than just adding sensors. Is there wiring? Will the safety/infotainment/whatever have the software to support it?

Two basic answers. You have a leak that drips out of the engine, and possibly onto the ground. Or a head gasket issue and it's sucking it in and burning it. After topping it up, you need to examine the engine, and the ground, for any leaks. The other one is harder to diagnose and will probably need a mechanic to check out.

With a Hybrid, protection from deep-cycle usage is more important that raw max amperage.

I bought a new controller and pigtail for my 2011. But, I never got around to replacing it and sold the car. I still have them. The controller is for the auto-climate, not the basic resistor. That said, if you look at the contacts on the resistor/controller, you can probably carefully scrape off any melted plastic, and it may be OK to use. I also have a blower motor. I had replace it once due to the chirping. It started doing it again, so I bought another, but then it stopped, so I never replaced it.

The 1st gen Fusions do have an issue with some bushings that get "sticky" in warm weather. Causes all sorts of clunking and scrunching noises. It could be so stiff that it's not allowing something to move properly and the wheels get out of alignment, especially if some ball joints or similar are getting worn.

It is probably the speed controller. It's a known issue where the power contact on a connector overheats, melts, and starts to lose contact. With the car running and the fan "on", you can see the connector underneath the passenger side dash, with two wires going to the fan, and others going elsewhere. If you wiggle it, you may hear the fan turn on and off. You may be able to get it to work for awhile by wiggling it every once in awhile. Ford did make a repair. It's a new pigtail (connector and short lengths of wire) with a slightly different connector that seems to be a different plastic and better contacts. You should also replace the controller as the power connector could be damaged. When I had my Fusion, it started doing that, I did get the pigtail and replacement controller, but never got around to replacing them. I was able to get it working, often for months at a time, but never found the time to do the change. I still have the parts, but no longer have the car.

The manual should have more detail, but I would guess Sport mode would just alter shift patterns and maybe make the throttle more "responsive".

From the picture, it almost looks like it was once deliberately cut. Very nasty. Not sure how hard it is to replace and how handy you are. Others can post links to parts if you want to do it yourself, or at least estimates on how hard/easy it is to do. Maybe you can mention the exact engine/model, in case it varies.

It's the vacuum line for the brake booster. Did you buy the car used? For safety, that hose needs to be replaced.

That is one nasty long link!!

Ford is recalling 14,452 of its 2019-2020 Fusion Plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEVs) because the battery energy control module (BECM) may become damaged due to excessive voltage and current flow. A damaged BECM can result in a loss of drive power or fire, increasing the risk of a crash or injury, the company said in a report to NHTSA.Owners are advised not to charge their vehicles until the remedy, currently under development, is completed. Interim letters notifying owners of the safety risk are expected to be mailed July 10, 2023 and second letters will be sent once the remedy is available. Owners may contact Ford customer service at 1-866-436-7332. Ford's number for this recall is 23S33. Recalled vehicles: 2019-2020 Fusion

It may not cause an obvious pull. You may need to jack up each wheel or the whole car and verify each wheel turns freely.

Just replace the battery. 5 years is an extraordinary lifetime for car batteries these days. I'm not sure if start-stop vehicles use a different deep-cycle battery.