andyross

I believe all the 4-cylinder cars use the 6F35. The V6 Sport uses a heavier version, and the hybrid has a CVT.

The new car is a 2022 Hyundai Elantra Limited Hybrid. Overpaid due to shortages. I did look at some used Fusions and MKZ's, but didn't want to worry about what I may miss again. I do have some leftover parts that were bought but never used for various reasons. I'm checking what I have and may post about it in the for-sale section. Quick list: Blower motor, auto blower motor controller (2), blower motor connector/pigtail, inside driver door handle (steel version) and trim that goes behind it, the part that goes underneath between the bumper and subframe, washer nozzles. All of the above is for a 2011 Fusion, but presumably will work with 2006-2012,

Last week, I traded in my Fusion on a new car. It wasn't due to any one issue, but so many little issues. Yes, it would have been cheaper overall to get them fixed over time, but as this is my only car, trying to find alternate transport is not easy. The main things that had gotten so annoying: Broken front bumper. Bought car used, didn't realize it had been repaired with hard body filler, which quickly cracked and caused the bumper to tear over time. Rocker panel rust-through in front of the rear tires. Blower motor connector issues Possible water leak as I sometimes heard rushing water when accelerating. Possibly under the carpet or somewhere else. Never saw or felt anything wet. Tires/wheels leaking about 2-3 psi/week. Clunky front suspension Automatic Intermittent wipers that didn't always stop at the right location, and would not auto-wipe again unless I forced them to move with a Mist or other change.

What do you mean by 'backwards front conversion'?

Is there something going on? Yesterday (8/24) it was ultra-slow and was giving Internal server errors. Today, it somewhat works, but still has 20-30 second delays to do anything.

Not sure just how similar the engines are. The Fusion is more similar to the Mazda 6, not the 3. Plus, even if they share the same basic design, Mazda may have their own changes that will make it incompatible with the Fusion. Not to mention any electronic and wiring issues. It would probably be easier and cheaper to find a matching Ford Fusion engine, or another car.

There is a thread and several Internet issues about the A/C drain and a plug nearby. The drain can get clogged. It also apparently only sticks out about 1/4" and water can drip back into the car. There is also a foam/plastic plug for the drain or nearby that deteriorates and can let water in.

As noted, MPG is highly dependent on driving habits and speed. Just driving at 55mph versus 65mph can make a noticeable difference. Your 2011 most likely has replacement tires, and different compounds can make a difference, in addition to air pressure. To be honest, the diff between 28 and 30mpg is pretty much nothing. Hell, I typically only get 14-15mpg on my 2011 3.0L, because alot of driving is only about 2 miles to work, and that is mostly through residential. I did get in the low-mid 20's when I lived further away and had alot of highway driving at 70mph.

This has gotten really bad lately due to warmer than normal weather. Plus, I was told the ball joints were possibly going bad when I had a tire rotation a few months ago. Since it sounds like it's the upper control arm, I will see about getting that replaced (can't do it myself.) I'm trying to guesstimate what part it is and costs, but am having problems trying to figure out just exactly what parts would need replacement. On one site, there are a large number of 'control arm' parts, but I don't know which is which. https://www.fordpartsprime.com/oe-ford-control_arm.html?vin=&make=Ford&model=Fusion&year=2011&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(39609;30682;36988;28760)

I bet it would be cheaper to just buy a 2.0 car. There may be many electronic, wiring, ECU, exhaust, heat shields, and who knows what different.

For the US Fusion, the 2006-2012 are based on the Mazda 6. It's the 2013+ that are the global Fusion/Mondeo. Hard to say how compatible some parts may be due to different safety or other government standards. Plus, with headlights, you even need to be aware of left- or right-hand drive.

Who is she? Any relation to Elon Musk?

It may be a coincidental issue with the speed controller for the blower motor. It's mounted to the left of the blower motor. The power lead is undersized and melts the connector. You can do a quick check by unplugging/plugging the connector. There is a replacement pigtail available, although it requires soldering. You may also need to replace the controller (auto-climate) or resistors (manual) because the connector in that may be damaged. There are several threads about this.

I guess you have checked the obvious that the hood is fully latched, the latch is pulling the hood down tight, and that the hinges are not loose?

I believe the 2013+ have a 2000lb limit with the 2.0L, and 1000lb with the other engines. That is why you won't find anything more than Class I.

I'm not certain about the 2013+ models, but I know my 2011 has a euro-style sharp cutoff to the low beams.

I thought the 6F35 issues were fixed by 2013. I have a 2011 and had the harsh 2-3 and 4-5 shift issues until the software was updated.

On my 2011 SEL, the pleather on the center armrest and door armrest has developed hard spots and even cracked. I think it's probably a bit of body oils baked in, and maybe even some leftover coolant oil from work if I don't fully wipe down my arms. I found a replacement genuine new Ford center armrest for $40, so that was an easy and cheap replacement. Trying to find a replacement door panel is harder and much more expensive. It isn't quite as bad, so I'm seeing if I can try to fix it first. I have the old center armrest to experiment with. Regular leather conditioner doesn't really work, since it's not real leather. Some Googling seems to imply various remedies such as Vinyl restorer, mineral oil, and baby oil. Anyone have experience with any of these, or any other ideas?

Running into the EXACT same issue with my 2011.

Aren't some Mazda 6 parts compatible, such as from Mazdaspeed, with the 2006-2012 Fusion/MKZ?

I have a feeling anything i do will cost $1400. ?

When I had my tires rotated, they said the ball joints may need replacement. You could slightly rotate the tires left/right. I don't feel anything obvious when driving. Just wondering what a typical price range from a local shop or dealer to have them replaced? This is on a 2011 Fusion V6 SEL.

A few days ago, I noticed what I thought was something hanging down from the car in front of the left tire. Turned out it was some paint peeling from a major hole that was hiding under the paint. I checked the right side, and it looks good, but you can feel sponginess there, too. Plus, when I had my tires rotated, they noted that the ball joints may need replacing as there was left-right play. Plus, I sometimes hear some knocking on sharp turns, so I probably have a CV joint going bad. At 10-years old, this car is really starting to show it's age.

It may be a faulty shift interlock solenoid. When you step on the brake, it unlocks the shifter. If it's going bad or is 'sticky', it may not release the shifter.

Generically, 2013+ are the same for most major items. Some things may be a bit more specific. The MKZ would mostly interchange. It's possible the 2015+ Edge may have some interchangeable parts. They all are the same platform.