andyross

Also, if you are in a snowy area, you may want to look into what Consumer Reports calls "All Weather" tires. These are all-season, but are also rated for snow (snowflake symbol on tire.) I have the Michelin CrossClimate+ which are working well in all the snow we have gotten here in the Chicago area the past few weeks. CR rated them #1 overall in the Performance All-Season car tires category. Some other 'good' rated all-weather tires from CR: Goodyear Assurance WeatherReady Vredestein Quatrac 5 Firestone WeatherGrip

What is a dummy O2 sensor? If you are looking at something to fool the computer into thinking it's getting a proper signal, that would be illegal. It would also probably not run properly.

Interesting story about a company that is making Lithium ion car batteries, if you can afford one: https://arstechnica.com/cars/2021/02/a-lithium-ion-upgrade-for-your-car-but-not-the-one-youre-expecting/

Without hooking up some form of oscilloscope to view the waveform, it's hard to tell what the real issue could be. That said, some power supplies are rated 100-240V, as I believe Japan typically uses 100V, not the 110-120 we use. The voltage could actually be correct, but some meters cannot properly display the voltage on a non-sinusoidal waveform.

Very often outlets powered from 12V do not output true AC, but some form of stepped wave or even a square wave. Some power supplies do not like that, especially those that are high-efficiency. It's a similar issue with UPS's you can use with computers/electronics. Some computers will shut down unless you use a true sine wave UPS.

The 2-3 shift in the 6F35 (and the 4-5 shift, to a lesser extent) has always been a bit weird. In some of the first versions and firmware, you could get a VERY harsh shift under some conditions. I have a 2011 that did that. After a firmware update, it will sometimes act like you notice. It goes into a sort of torque-hold during the shift where it holds the RPMs and power down until the shift completes. It usually only occurs when it's "cold" and under heavy-moderate throttle.

Buy a key fob with the built-in key. Since you do have two keys, you should be able to program it yourself with the procedure in the manual. The fob's code is tied to the key, so it should work once learned. I think you might be able to use a stand-alone fob, but that might need programming through the ODBII port.

If you view other threads about replacement LED headlight bulbs, you will know: DO NOT DO IT! They are not really legal as the light pattern is not the same and the reflector will not work properly. Somewhere on the packaging should be a warning that they are not road legal or something similar.

Bought my 2011 SEL V6 used in late 2013 with about 24K on it. Worked from home at the time, so very few miles. Got a new job and had a long commute for a year before moving closer. Currently almost at 70K. Long-term MPG is 21.73. Data based from 01/04/14 through 10/19/20 Total miles 45283.7 Total gallons 2084.15 Average MPG 21.73 Total gas paid $5386.60 Total other paid $3825.46 Total paid $9212.06 Average cost/fillup $33.46 Average cost/gallon $2.585 Average cost/mile $0.203

I'm not certain if it's the same car. The Fusion mentioned here is typically called Mondeo outside the US.

Isn't the trunk lid an electric latch? The only mechanical cable is for the hood.

Not sure how the battery would affect the key. The only thing I can think of is the interlock that prevents you from starting the car without stepping on the brake. Not sure if it could cause a problem if it's damaged, or you are not turning the key all the way to OFF, or something is preventing it from going all the way.

I sure hope you were VERY careful on that one!!?

How long is "a few years"? These days, 3-4 years is typical battery life.

There is a 'bug' in the hybrid software that reduces the battery usage to nearly nothing after just a few years. I think there is now an official Ford fix, but you should read through this thread. https://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/19361-my-instructions-on-restoring-the-hybrid-ev-function-on-the-ford-fusion-hybrid-approaching-the-89-years-mark/

Depending on how it's designed, the filter paper may have gone bad and a section flaked off and was ground up by the blower.

2006-2012 are based on the Mazda 6. 2013+ are Ford's own design. Nothing is interchangeable between them.

https://www.edmunds.com/appraisal/

If it is the main light sensor, it could also affect automatic climate control as it may also double as a sun sensor. I had a 2000 Sable where it went bad and you could tell the climate control did not run the fan as high as it would normally do during the day.

On my 2011, it seems to be a mix of miles and/or time. I don't drive all that much either, and it often triggers after about 10-12 months.

For the 2006-2012, V6's will have dual exhaust with two large pipes, one on each side. 4 cylinders (regular and hybrid) just have one pipe, or maybe a small dual-pipe but next to each other on the right side. Sport models (3.5L V6) have a chrome-like tip with beveled edges.

This is a known quirk with the 6-speed auto, especially on older ones. I have a 2011 and bought it used. Originally, not only would it sometimes take a long time, it would slam into third. It would then act like it had re-learn everything. I was able to get a software update and it's much less of an issue. It will still sometimes take awhile to shift, typically when 'cold' and under moderate-to-heavy throttle. But the shift is not as harsh as it now does a torque-hold during the shift which reduces engine power for a bit.

There was a recall on many Fusions dealing with possible problems. I think it was mainly software, but the dealer was also supposed to check other sensors to make certain they were working correctly.

Looks like it's just some interior trim piece.

You are showing a low-tire pressure icon, plus the wrench. Not certain if the wrench is referring to the low tire pressure. At least checking and correcting that is easy.