kennycoulter

Tramlining. it isn't about the side wall, as much as it is the WIDTH of the tire. grades, imperfections in the road, and slopes will pull the tires (and the car) in a million different directions. When I traded in an 03 Mach 1 (245 wide) in on an 03 Cobra (275 wide), the tramlining was absolutely overwhelming. It was a constant fight that required a lot of attention while driving. The fusion has some pretty wide tires. If you were able to find some thinner wheels and tires, 1. you'd do better on gas, and 2. you would be fighting your steering less. the negatives of going to a thinner tire: these cars are HEAVY! it might be hard to find a tire with adequate weight and pressure. the wider tire is supposed to keep your more stable in turns, so by comparison, you wouldn't be going around bends as stable.

Way later. Transmission was replaced about 2.5 years ago, so it was in the car for roughly 2 years before the MPG started to drop a little. INTERESTINGLY, the trans shop DID plug something or eliminated a hose when the swap was done. I didn't notice the plug until I changed the spark plugs back in February. I will try to post the picture that I took of it. I couldn't find a reference pic of how it SHOULD look, and my Focus ST didn't have the same hose (manual).

Thank you very much for the insight. Those are all good points. I am actually comparing gas mileage compared to previous years, but of course this year we are not having the severe cold as other years. The fuel additives makes the most sense. I DO still use the remote start at times, but it never sits running for TOO long.

I constantly check my gas mileage to know if anything is up with my car. I have been getting about 5 mpg worse than normal. The transmission has already been replaced with a low mileage unit. I was already having the lower mpg's before having another trans fluid change. I do not seem to have any brakes dragging. I recently changed the spark plugs hoping that might clear it up a little (I sometimes also feel a slight dip or surge in idle). What the heck else can I look towards, if I am not having any codes come up? OH! 2013 2.0 Turbo titanium awd

I say, JUST DO IT! The majority of the time, it stalls as most have noted: from park, reverse, to drive.... stall. Mine did it a few times at a light, but 1 time it did it pulling away FROM a light, the car was not shut off and restarted. I HAD plenty of time to make my turn as I was doing, but the car stalled in the middle of oncoming traffic, and the oncoming car wasn't slowing down after seeing me. My son was in the car. Don't put yourself or others in that situation. To those having trouble removing the part: NEVER just take a socket to a line like a brake line or fuel line etc. Almost every fitting has its own hex, square, or flats. MAKE SURE that you hold onto that so that you are not twisting any lines and creating a larger problem. The one at the firewall is very difficult to get a wrench on the bottom flats in order to remove the sensor. It is doable, but you need to cram a lot of hands into a small area. good luck.

I am just seeing this post..... the airbags did not deploy at this accident, but I can't say that they have NEVER been deployed. I bought the car used, and it WAS rearended. I plan to take things back apart and check them again within the next couple of weeks.

I am trying to add navigation. I have the most current SD card to work with it.

I messaged some friends with more computer knowledge than me, to see if they could figure this out. I am watching some on ebay. I didn't know that there were so many. "Hey i just got a Nav Apim with Heated seats if you're still intersted. I can do $150.00 if you want. Keep in mind we do not program these units, So that's why im trying to find one as close to yours as possible. So the Navigation will work, Radio will work, heated seats will work, those will work out of the box. There are a couple things that may need to be reprogrammed, like if you have an upgraded speaker system, ambient lighting, etc. other than that it should be what you're looking for. "

I guess that I have the newest us and Canada map sd card for sale.... I can't pay $700 just for the computer.

so that would mean needing the different computer or whatever?

I am still unsure of what I have... Looking through the System Information, Mine says Gracenote Database Information: 5059, Library 5.6.2.9 Also having trouble adding in the updates.

Last night, I noticed that more lights on the buttons were out...... 30 minutes later, I noticed them flickering when turning the wheel. Obviously some sort of connection issue?

wait wait wait.... I thought that ALL titanium models had GPS? I thought that mine just wasn't subscribed anymore (also bought my 2013 titanium used). I can click on the navigation icon in the upper right corner, and it takes me to a "sync services" prompt, and has the option to "connect to services". It says: "to activate, log on to www.syncmyride.com" when that screen is shown, there is an option to the left that says "where am I?". If I click that, it shows me longitude and latitude coordinates. IS my car WITHOUT GPS? I just bought the sd card hoping to hook it back up.

I had my horn button off yesterday, and did not see any fault in that location..... it still could have been coincidental. I saw some rust in the area from moisture, so I wonder if SOME contacts actually got corroded. I think I just figured out WHY this happened, along with the timing of the bodyshop having the vehicle. I know that they spray down the interior when they detail the car before returning to the customer. the time of year in which the car was worked on was VERY cold. I had heavy rust form on my brakes and lugnuts in the time that they had the vehicle (sat for a month waiting on the correct mirror). the moisture from cleaning needed to evaporate and stuck to the bare metal interior pieces and probably corroded some contacts, which I hope that the whole display panel doesn't go bad fast... Another bodyshop that I had talked to had mentioned that the aftermarket mirrors ARE NOT correct, and DO NOT work, and that this original bodyshop was telling the truth that the connectors are not the same as ford's. if anyone needs to have a bodyshop replace a mirror, elect to have a genuine ford side mirror, and NOT aftermarket.

tThanks again. I finished it yesterday....I started taking the WHOLE bumper cover off, but when taking the bottom cover off, I realized that I could get my hand on the horn plug....only needed to disconnect the plug on the bottom, then the wires go from the bottom horn to the top horn, seemingly without an additional plug. I wanted to disconnect while trying to fix my horn button/airbag, so it wouldn't be constantly going off. I hit my horn too hard a month ago, the horn stuck in, had to disable battery and horn to get horn pad off (small hole in bottom of steering wheel, insert small diameter tool to release spring, pivot up on horn pad, push up the horn pad to release upper springs).... the horn cover itself got stuck on the clips that hold it on.... slight deformation, but staying on okay. plugged back in, reconnected battery, everything seemingly okay. I elected NOT to polish my headlights nor replace the bulbs at this time. My fusion was out of commission for 1.5 weeks, and I wanted it back on the road so I could work on my backup vehicle. still looking for recommendations on led or regular bulbs.

thanks, guys! With all of that needing to come off, can anyone recommend good replacement bulbs? mine don't need it yet, but I'd hate to take this back apart in a month, in the snow, because a bulb finally went out.... led? standard?

I can't seem to find the location anywhere online. I removed one panel, for where they'd traditionally be located, but they weren't there.... I didn't want to take too much apart, since I am very short on time. Are they still located in front of the radiator?

old post... I have had mine since Dec. 2013. I noticed it right away, but thought that my car was wrecked and repaired. Recently, as I have been working on a lot of stuff on my car, I was trying to check the hood and latch assembly.... It seems that there is a catch for the hood on both sides, but the passenger side doesn't seem to move (on mine). I can pull up on the hood on the passenger side, and it will be latched on the driver, until you push the yellow release handle. I thought that might be the reason for uneven pressure? Not that it is the worst thing in the world, and not that we should all have any problem, but I am happy that it wasn't just me.

I want to know why the rear brakes wear out so fast? My aunt had an escape that kept wearing out the rears with the fronts looking brand new.... that was what the dealer told her. I thought: "b.s." I finally tore into mine a while ago, and found the rears to be worn very thin, and the fronts looking untouched. I have had my current brakes on for maybe 20,xxx miles. I assumed another outside factor messed up my brakes (I didn't have the car for 1.5 months, got it back, brakes were warped) but it seems like it is the REAR again. I wish that I had my own brake lathe, as everyone charges so much to turn them.

It was not deployed. I am really baffled by this, and over more time, more lights have gone out.

Thank you for the link. Those are better prices. I have been meaning to call "tousley" ford: Auto Nation White Bear Lake to see if they are still offering discount parts. I have been checking back to Rockauto and ebay for the past maybe 10 months. Looking on the link that you sent, it says without sport, so maybe the 19" wheel option was the sport, and I would assume has different rates and springs. like you've mentioned, a cut spring does make things act different. I have only done it once on my own vehicle, and once on a friend's vehicle, but neither of those were a dramatic cut/drop. (I just called Tousley, and they had them for $94 left, and $95 right).

Apparently, mine isn't the bearing, but a warped rotor, making the noise.

I couldn't edit the original post, but it is NOT the drivers' side strut, it is the passenger's side front strut that seems to be hard to find for 18" wheels. I called the closest ford dealership yesterday and got a quote for $158 for just the one. I was hoping to go with OEM because I have bought and was not impressed with Monroe, Gabriel, KYB, I think I have had 2 other brands.... If Koni or Bilstein were available, I might even spring for them. I find it weird that the 19" struts are seemingly more common. I am also wondering if that is a sportier suspension. Is it possible to purchase the 19" struts, and cut 1/4 of a coil off of my front springs without losing any ride height or quality?

Did it change the handling feel at all? I know that is a hard comparison, going from a worn strut to a functioning one, but I want to get my vehicle back to not feeling unstable in any turns.

I am looking to replace my struts (high mileage car starting to get sloppy.) My vehicle is a 2013 awd. I can't seem to find the driver side Motorcraft replacement strut (18" wheels). Can you suggest any other brands? any other place to look for my specific strut from motorcraft at a discount?