propwash

If you decide to let the dealer program a second key for you, you might want to get a third one done as well. My car came with the two remote keys. I bought a regular key (no remote locking or any of the other fancy stuff--just a key), so that if I ever lost either of the others, I would still have two keys in my possession so I could reprogram a replacement key without going through a dealer. Like was mentioned above, if you have at least two working, programmed keys, then you can program more keys yourself. If you only have one key, you need to go through a dealer, or there are a few locksmiths who claim to have the ability do do this as well.

Have you checked for the corresponding part on a Lincoln MKZ? The MKZ uses the 3.5L engine, so I think there might be a good chance that this part should work on your Fusion with the 3.5.

I don't know about the whining noise, because I've never had a hybrid. You should check out your tire pressure, however. Your TPMS warning light is staring you in the face.

Not quite. He has just short of 500,000 km on his fusion, not 500,000 miles. This translates to just north of 300,000 miles, which would get to the moon but not all the way back!

I like the first one with the red trim on it. I think it would look nice with your black car.

I also have a 2012, and the louvers on all my vents seem to be intact and working properly. The only people who are ever in the front seats are my wife and I, and we are always pretty careful not to manhandle them. We treat them gently, and so far we have not had any problems with them.

I'm not sure about the 2014 models, but on the 2012 version those buttons are for the universal garage door opener. Your owners manual should explain how to program them if you want to.

The Ford site says that there is a new version of Sync ( I think it was 4.6) available for me to download, but every time I try I just get an error message saying : System ErrorThis service is temporarily unavailable. Please try again later or contact us. Has anybody been able to download the most current version for the 2012 model?

Once you do get your second key programmed, either at the dealer or a qualified locksmith, it would be a good idea to get a third key cut. Not necessarily a key with the remote door and trunk functions, just a basic key. You can then program that key yourself, and that will give you a third key. Then, if you ever lose one of your two programmed smart keys, you can still buy another and program it yourself. I bought a key from my local dealer for $12 including the cutting. I took it home and programmed it myself with no problems. Now I have three working keys, and if I lose one I will still have two so I can program a replacement myself and save the fee that a dealer would charge.

No, I bought it used. It was listed as a personal lease vehicle, not as part of a fleet, but I suppose that Carfax could be wrong on that. I have noticed a few other SEL's without a moon roof, but these cars were moving when I saw them, so I couldn't tell if they had the Sony audio system or not.

Well, that's not exactly true. Mine does have the Sony audio, but there is a moon roof delete on the sticker as well. It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to have the audio as part of a package that includes the moon roof, and then to delete the moon roof. But that's what they did. I have an SEL with Sony audio and no moon roof.

I also have a 2012 SEL. My car has the Sony audio system with 12 speakers. According to the window sticker, this sound system is part of a package that included cross traffic alert, rear view camera, rain sensing wipers, moonroof and reverse sensing system. So, it looks like the Sony system was optional on the SEL model that year.

I just saw that episode. It was a fairly quick review, but they did cover quite a few areas. They got a 5.3 second zero to sixty time, with 13.9 seconds at 99 mph in the quarter mile. It looks like the brakes could do a little better--the stopping distance wasn't all that great. Prices for the Sport start at $34.350.

I'm paying close attention to my battery. The car is four years and nine months old, and it still has the original battery. I had it checked at a place that uses the new style load tester, and they said that it still tests good. I figure with winter coming up that I'll probably have to replace it pretty soon. So far there has been no sign of any strange electrical problems that usually precede a battery failure. At the first sign of any problems, I'll just go ahead and replace it. I'm just curious to see how long it will last before it starts acting up.

I'm pretty sure that the bolt pattern is different, so the steel wheels won't fit your car. They changed the diameter of the bolt circle with the 2013 model year. The tire diameter on the snow tire is only about .17 inch larger than what's on your car now, so that should work OK. You will have to find some other wheels if you want to use those snow tires. Good luck.

I don't know what the specs are for a 2014 model, but 44 PSI seems to me to be pretty high. If I remember right, the recommended pressure for my 2012 model is 33 PSI all the way around. If you check the placard (usually found inside the driver's door) and it recommends something lower, I would advise lowering the pressure to between recommended and recommended + 2. Assuming your specs are the same as they are for the 2012 models, you should notice a smoother ride and it might help on the vibrations as well. Good luck.

Glad to see that you have apparently gotten it taken care of. It's amazing how much trouble a corroded/intermittent connection can cause.

I would have the battery checked again, making sure that they use the newest battery tester. Many times a bad battery will show OK when tested with the older style test machine.Is this the original battery in a 2010 model? If so, it's more than overdue for replacement Browse through the forums here and you will see many cases where there were some strange, unrelated warning lights illuminating, Replacing the battery solved the problem in many of these cases. Good luck.

Good luck. After the job is done, let us know how things went. You might inspire some of us to try and take the plunge ourselves!

Have you tried calling Weathertech directly? They might have the information as to whether the 2016 mats will fit in the 2017 models.

I agree. All the light is telling you is that at least one of your tires is low. If you keep an accurate gauge in the glove box, it's a three minute job to check the pressure on all four tires, and you'll know for sure which tire(s) could be causing the light to come on.

I had a similar situation with a different car. In that car, the pump was at the bottom of the tank, and the more gas you have on top of the pump (full tank), the more that gas absorbs the noise of the pump. With mine, the fuel level at which I started hearing the hum of the pump kept rising as the pump got louder and louder. I think it was about 20,000 more miles or so when the pump got so loud that I couldn't take the noise any more and replaced it. That solved the problem. I think that it was a bearing in the fuel pump that started going bad and making noise. The worse it got, the louder the noise became. Anyway, after I changed the pump I never heard any more noise, even with the tank almost empty. I'm not sure if the Fusion has the pump at the bottom of the tank as well, but if it does, that would explain how your noise is getting louder as the fuel level drops.

It looks like there might be a tiny light visible at the end of the tunnel. I took the car in a couple weeks ago and discussed things with the service adviser. He thought that they should have reset the oil life monitor to 100% when they changed the cluster. I told him that it read 92% before and after the cluster swap. He suggested that I go ahead and reset it back to 100% and see what happens. So, I reset it to 100% and went home. Over the next few days the life started decreasing, as it should, down from 100. A couple days ago it hit 92% again, and I started wondering if it was going to go lower since it got stuck on 92% before. Yesterday, I noticed that it was at 91%, so I'm hoping that it will continue decreasing as I drive the car. I still won't know if the change oil message will appear at 10% oil life remaining, because it was stuck on 92% for so long that I think I'm probably down to around 50% or so now. If I let things go until the monitor reads 10%, I will have probably gone down into the negative range because of how long things were stuck on 92%. I think I'll change the oil this time at around 40-50% remaining, reset back to 100 and then hope for the message to appear the next time it hits 10% remaining. I'll just have to wait and see what happens.

I have the basic Sync system--no nav or touch screen. This is on a 2012 SEL.

I apologize if this has been covered before, but I couldn't find anything when I searched. Once you have your phone paired with Sync and have downloaded your phone book to Sync, what happens when you make amendments to your phone book? Do changes (additions, deletions, corrections) get downloaded to Sync every time it pairs with your phone, or do you have to manually go to the add/delete/modify options for the Sync phone book?