Botts

If you were to do it again, would you try and do it with the seat in the car? The technician guide suggests this is possible, and I need to do that repair this weekend. Just wondering about your experience.

How did you determine software version? My 2006 SEL has always had this issue, brand new battery or not. Mine's usually when it drops below -15C though, not -5C. It totally defeats the purpose of having an remote car starter. I'm totally comfortable with pulling the part out of a used Fusion, but I don't want to replace it and have the same issue. Thanks!

Hello, I am looking for an unlocked SCT Tuner with Steeda Tunes for my 2006 3.0L Fusion. Please let me know if you have anything available! Thanks, Brian

Hello, I just received my Centric front MS6 calipers in the mail, but they do not appear to have brackets. Do we know if the Fusion brackets will work? Or if standard Mazda 6 brackets will work?

Which JL amp is it? Some have speaker level inputs built in already, which would mean you only have to run power to the amps which is *relatively* easy. You could then just splice into your rear speaker wires for the signal. I'll check with a colleague on which installers in Toronto might be the best today. My focus area was on western Canada. There will for sure be quite a few qualified installers. I'd avoid Best Buy and Future Shop for sure though. Finally, is it a 2.5L, 3.0L, or 3.5L, and is it 4, 6, or 12 speakers? If it's a 12 speaker it will clearly be Sony branded, the easiest way to tell if it's a 6 speaker is to see if there is a tweeter pod on your A-pillar above your window sills. If there is a tweeter pod, you should be able to tell if there is a tweeter installed in there by putting your ear next to it and covering and uncovering it.

Can confirm that my 2006 suffered this same rust spot.

Tagged for interest. My Fusion is just about to hit 100k miles, and I want to do it, but am hoping a Ford Tech can show us a way to save some serious time on the install. On my Camry it was like 3 hours labor, manual suggested removing manifold, but if you used 3 socket extensions and a universal joint, you could do the back three cylinders in 20-30 minutes. Edit: Thanks youtube:

I think it's actually like 06 and a half got the aux. My 06 didn't, but a friends did. If you can only find an 06, adding auxiliary though an aftermarket deck would be less than $75 if you did the install yourself. Adding auxiliary and bluetooth calling would be under $100. The deck install on a Fusion is a how it should be. I did it while driving once just to see if I could, I could. *That was with a pre connected harness though.* Tools required: - 7mm socket. - Soldering iron, or crimper with butt connectors. That is all.

Swap your deck. A basic Pioneer/Clarion/Sony will run you $65, or $100 with bluetooth and handsfree calling. You will also need: - A dashkit ($10, or free from some retailers with deck purchase) - A wiring harness ($10, or free from some retailers with deck purchase) - Antenna adapter ($5) - Soldering iron or crimper with butt connectors. - 7mm socket and ratchet. - Electrical tape or heat shrink tube (not necessary, but a nice to have). The install will take you under 45 minutes, even if it's your first time. I did mine in 15 minutes from start to finish. As long as you aren't colour blind, there's almost no chance at messing up the wiring either!

If you want to go with the affordable option: I'd avoid the PAC units guys. My preferred source for a generic LOC is InstallBay or Raptor. Great price/performance ratio IMO. Focal makes a LOC called the Hilo, but I don't feel it's worth the premium over the generics. A step up in features would be AudioControl's LC6i. It's a great piece. If you're doing speaker amps, then your decks volume would control the signal out of the LOCs. For sub amps I'd just run the amps respective Remote Bass Control knob somewhere upfront. For JL the part number is RBC-1, and your dealer should provide it free of charge if pushed. The more expensive but best option to retain your head unit and Sync. Use a signal processor. Anthony Mascotti above used the JL Audio Clean Sweep which is a great unit. It's automatic tuning works very well. It'll let you retain your factory head unit and get great quality RCA out, along with automatic EQ to clean the sound from your head unit. I used to sell these, they're a good option for sure. The JBL MS8 is a great unit too, I'd rank it slightly below the JL. My current runner-up in this range is the Audison Bit.One. It's a fantastic piece, a little hard to set up though, and doesn't have quite as many options as my first choice. A lot of installers swear by the Audison Bit.One though. ​My favourite by far though is the Mosconi 6to8 DSP.The 6to8 is mind-blowing from a sound quality perspective, it also has the ability to add a bluetooth board, if you're tired of the low Sync bluetooth quality. The bluetooth adapter AMAS and associated microphone adds very good quality bluetooth audio streaming from your smart phone or iPod/iPad. It also lets you avoid Sync for bluetooth calling. The AMAS supports lossless audio over bluetooth!!! If you want to save some money, there is a 4to6 available as well. My best friend just added a 6to8 DSP along with bluetooth adapter and a fully amplified setup to his 2014 F-150, and it has been great. A marked increase in bluetooth call and music streaming quality. If you have any questions about specific install stuff, please PM me or reply here! ------ Woah, just realized how old OP's post was. Guess he figured out what to do with that W7 and amp. My Original Post Below: ------ What year of Fusion are you buying? "New" Fusion could be 2014, or simply new to you. I am an ex Car Audio Distributor, so I know the product line, and install techniques inside out and backwards. You spent quite likely a solid amount of cash on that W7 and 750/1. Like likely over a grand. It deserves better than a LOC. There are some great options available. I just need to know which Fusion you're buying to recommend one.

Just to add my experience with the 3.0L at least in a 2006, I have never heard that noise. A light ticking like what is heard prior to 0:18 is all my Fusion has ever made. That's with several -35f to -45f starts as well. Some with block heater plugged in, some without. I do use synthetic though, which does assist with the super frigid starts.

If you have access to an OBD-II scanner, even a bluetooth or wi-fi one, you could check to see if the fuel gauge is reporting accurately. Speaking of, has your fuel gauge seemed accurate since the issue with the message centre arose?

Rkive, I would recommend signing up for Fuelly. It's a great fuel economy tracker. You can use it at the pump on your smartphone by accessing m.fuelly.com Using something like Fuelly will rule out the message centre. Something seems up with that calculation though, I use a car starter extensively, and average 15L/100km in the winter, but around 10.5-11 L/100km in the summer. If my commute is all stop/and/go as well, I see around 12-12.5 in the summer. It would probably be around 15L/100km in the winter for stop/and/go. Since I started using fuelly this winter, during a major -30 cold snap, with extensive car starter use, I saw 17.3L/100km, and during another cold snap, 16.4L/100km. Since then it's been hovering around 0C and I haven't been using my starter, those fill ups have all been between 12-13L/100km. This is the info to hit my fuelly profile. Some of it will be right pedal related though, as when I gave my Camry to my fiance, it gained 4MPG over night.

It's gotta be the AWD, or you have a noticeably heavier foot than me. I'm in Edmonton, and experiencing the -30 crap all winter too. I've been getting 16.9MPG, and that's with 15 minutes of remote starter use at least 3 days a week.