Tyler Burgert

I've got the bluetooth adapter on its way. Was hoping to get some pics of where you've got your phone mounted in the car. I cannot decide where I want it to go. And also what kind of gauges are you using on the Torque app? Thanks!

No, but its been years since I had it. But it was constructed just like your standard oiled filter but it was supposed to be washed every 15,000 miles give or take depending on the environment. Mine spent a shit load of time idling and pulling grain trailers, etc. So I would hose it down every 7-10K. But never put oil on it or anything. Directions said not to oil it. Also said it only needed to be replaced every 100K. I paid almost $400 for the whole thing though. Maybe they quit making them?

I actually used to use a S&B oil-less filter. All I had to do wash wash it with the hose and toss it back in. Exceeded Ford's OEM specs and let more air in. It was amazing but only made it from the 7.3 PSD

S&B makes great stuff. All I ever used in the mast 2 trucks I had. Oil kits are nice too and reasonably priced.

Not sure about an auto for for a manual the turbo comes full on at about 2,300 RPM at WOT and to me thats really nice. I can't feel any fall off until the car defuels at around 6,400. But engine noise takes over turbo nouse shortly past 4,000 RPM but the BOV sound is outstanding and when an more open intake it sounds like the car should be making about 300+ HP.

How much does the 1.6 make from factory? Do we know?

Its not broke at the moment, and pushing about 600 HP :D So its broke? Because my car has made this sound since day 1 and with the video you posted my car does the EXACT same thing.

You've made a great point. I only get to drive the car on weekends. It's sitting at around 2,900 miles right now so I will actually change it next week. As far as breaking in the transmission I'm not worried about that. I have a manual. I have noticed the syncro "whine" is a little louder than when it was new but other than that I'm just trying to get all the "new part" smell burnt off that little hamster motor it has

I dont plan on changing the oil until about 5K just like Ford says. I don't know what you mean by a "fast" break in. Its not like I am racing the car, Its just getting drove harder than it normally will later in its life.

So, I've got just a few ticks under 2,500 miles on my 2014 now. I've been pushing her pretty hard though too. It's only had a few wide open 1-2-3 shifts but its seen a lot of 3/4 throttle in the city and wide open on the highway to keep it clean and try to get a good break in. So, we took about a 300 mile road trip last week with it. And I wanted to do a MPG test just to see how I was stacking up to the EPA numbers. EPA claims 37 highway and (I think) 32 city on my car. Most of the trip was highway, with I'd say just roughly 20 miles city before I filled back up. But at the end of the day I had managed a 39.7 MPG fuel run. And I'll tell you it wasn't easy. Normally the car doesn't see 5th gear much in the city to keep it from lugging but I had it in 6th to maintain low RPMs at about 40mph on straight roads and I'll admit I did some coasting down hill. But I gotta say hitting almost 40 MPG, I almost shit my pants. I think I've got a good break in going with it, and its performing just outstanding!

That I would LOVE to see!

Its funny I found this. I was wondering what the sound was also at the same time. While doing my research, what I did was completely took apart the intake. And after that the turbo is almost totally unmuffled on the intake side. After the 30 seconds or so I can hear the BOV engage. I'm not sure if these turbos are VGT, but this sound is what a VGT turbo sounds like with a cold start where its got thick oil and the veins and closed all the way so the turbo is spinning really quick, and after a few seconds the veins open up. Thats what my Powerstroke does when I first start it. Food for thought?

I think I just replied to your other thread, but sort of. I'll explain it here again for anyone else. My LOC is designed to be connected to a 12V constant source. And anytime it has audio voltage pass through it, it will turn on its remote signal to my amp. When audio voltage is lost it shuts off it remote voltage to the amp.

Power antenna is constant. You may not need it, but what I did might help. I bought a LOC that you tie into a constant 12V and also tie into the speaker signal. It has a remote wire on it you can splice your own to. Anytime the LOC detects audio signal it turns the remote power on. When audio signal is lost after a few minutes it shuts off remote power.

Kyle, its very very simple. I am going to assume you have MFT. Because that is what I have and its all I know how to take apart. First you will need to remove a few trim pieces around the gear shifter. Then remove the giant silver trim piece going from the bottom of the dash up and around the two center hvac vents. There are two bolts holding on the plastic piece with all the a/c and radio controls. If memory serves me they are 8mm. Once those are removed, be careful pulling this piece out. The top two holders are stuck in there pretty good so have patience. Once that is removed there will be two more 8mm bolts holding in the actual radio head unit. remove those 2 bolts and viola! You've got access to the back of the deck to install the PAC or LOC whichever one you choose to use. The driver's side harness that is plugged in to the back of the radio headunit is what you want. Its got the power and speakers wires in it. After that re-installing it its easy. I can have my radio out and back together in less than 5 mins.