MOHPro

2012 2.5 / gas. When I turn my headlights on, alternator makes constant high pitch whine. I listened to it with my mechanic's stethoscope and I can also hear a grinding noise coming from within the alternator. When at idle battery voltage is 14.4. Voltage drops to about 14.3 with all electtonics on at idle. When I put the car in reverse, and let it roll back on its own, the voltage drops to about 12.4 - 13.1 volts for a brief moment and the rpm drops down to about 4 - 500 rpm then goes back up to normal voltage and rpm. If I put the car in reverse and accelrate backwards, when I come to a stop it does the same thing. Then while at a stop, when I put the car in drive it dpes the same thing. Alternator is Mechman High Output alternator and had it for about 2 - 2.5 years. Got it for my aftermarket stereo system. I still have the factory alternator which is still in good condition and was removed when I installed the Mechman at about 35K miles. Car now has 98K miles. So all i will have to pay for is a belt and tensioner. Will let everyone know what happens when I put the factory alternator, new belt, and new tensioner in. In the mean time feel free to chime in.

It will drain after sitting about 2 days to the point where it won't start. I do trip the door latch when I have the door open to prevent draw while checking the fuses under the dash When I disconnected the negative battery cable to check for how much of a draw, I did it right away, I did not wait a couple hours.

2012 SEL. Had a bad battery and replaced it (yes, the battery was actually tested to confirm it was bad, I didn't just guess at it). Now I have a parasitic draw (60ma) measured by fully charging the battery, disconnecting the negative battery terminal, putting one multimeter test lead on the negative battery terminal and the other on the negative cable. With the negative cable re-connected to the battery, I then proceeded to peeform a voltage drop test across all fuses in the engine compartment fuse box with my multimeter set to 200mv. The readings for all of these fuses immediately dropped to zero. I then went inside of the car and began a voltage drop test across fuses in the fuse box under the driver dash. I have not finished testing all of them yet. When I checked the ignition switch fuse, it stayed steady at 0.2mv. Two questions: 1.) With my meter set to 200mv, would this reading be 2 tenths of a millivolt? 2.) Is it normal for the ignition switch to drawer current with the key out of the ignition? Today the battery light came on after starting the car and putting it in reverse. When I put it in reverse it sounded like it was about to shut down. I know the alternator is good because with the car running and all electronics powered on the battery voltage is about 14.28. Another way I know the alternator is good is because when I shut the car off the battery voltage is higher than what it was before I started the car. All electronics in the vehicle are in working order except for the auto up for the driver's window. All lights work as they should when turned on and off (head lights, fog lights, high beams, side markers, directionals, hazards, reverse lights, parking lights, map and dome lights, and ambient lighting). Radio powers on and off appropriately. Both heated seats work. All lights on the interior switches illuminate. All of the windows and locks operate from each door. Sun roof operates correctly. Fan, a/c and heat all operate correctly. Trunk light turns on when trunk is opened and off when trunk switch is depressed. Vanity mirror lights work appropriately. The map and dome lights turn on when each door is opened and turn off after each door is closed. I am thinking maybe I should do some further testing on the ignition switch using the detailed instructions from my all data diy subscription Forgot to mention sticker on battery says 9/18 so only about 6 months old. Also, with the negative battery cable disconnected, the headlights, map and dome lights, power windows and door locks, trunk light and power seats still work. Bad door switch maybe? Im confused.

The driver window auto up doesn't work on my 2012 SEL. The auto down works and both the auto down and auto up on the passenger window work. What could be the cause of the driver's window auto up not working?

I have a 2012 SEL 2.5L with 59k miles. The last time I brought my car to the Ford dealership for an oil change (56k miles), I was told that the technician reccomended a transmission flush because the transmission fluid was a darker red color and not bright red. Is a little discoloration normal, or is it suppose to stay bright red all the time? The transmission is not skipping, slipping, or shifting loud or rough, etc. I believe the owner's manual doesn't call for a transmission flush until 120k miles. I'm trying to determine if I actually need the transmission flush or if the dealership is just trying to get money out of me. Any thoughts or suggestions?

I own a 2012 SEL and recently completed a sound system install. The install involved removing practically the entire interior of the car. I will post the fastener size for each interior component I removed (I might have missed some) along with many pictures. This will more than likely take me several days to post all the pictures so please follow this post if you want notifications of any updates I make to it. I hope some of you can find this pictorial useful should you need to remove any interior components of your car. Fastener Sizes: negative battery terminal bolt: 8mm splash guard bolt: 7mm alternator mounting bolt: 13mm alternator mounting stud nuts: 15mm alternator mounting studs: 7mm or 1/4 alternator battery cable nut: 13mm alternator tensioner bolts: 10mm Ground strap: 8mm or 5/16 passenger seat seat belt anchor bolt: 13mm All seat bolts: 13mm rear seat bolsters: 10mm spare tire: 19mm factory sony amp mounting bolts: 10mm trunk pull down strap: T 27 C pillar bolts: 8mm Rear seat belts: T 50 Rear doors inside door handle trim: T 20 Rear doors arm rest trim panels: 7mm Rear doors upper door trim panel: T 20 Rear doors speaker screws: T 20 B pillar bottom bolt: 10mm B pillar upper bolt: 8mm Driver seat belt bolt: T 50 Rear Hangars (the things attached to the headliner that you can hang clothes from or hold on to if the driver is driving like a maniac and you are scared): 2 phillips screws Front doors inside door handle trim: T 20 Front doors armrest trim panel: 7mm Front doors upper and lower door trim panel: T 20 Front doors speaker screws: T 20 Front door tweeters: phillips screws Center console rear bolts: 7mm Center speaker storage bin: 8mm Front center speaker: 7mm Dash tether: 10mm Radio trim panel: 7mm Radio: 7mm Rear doors inside handle retaining bolts and silver metal inner door trim: 8mm Power window motors: T 20

I have a 2012 SEL. I will be installing a kenwood dnn992 with idatalink maestro. I cant find a regular wiring harness anywhere. I just need the basic harness with power, ground etc

Samturner, Ive been meaning to ask you....do you have driver's priority unlock hooked up? If you do, would you be so kind as to help me out with how to do it? Thanks in advance

Sounds like the radio.is.staying on not SYNC. You sure youre shutting the radio off?

I purchased the firsttech alarm upgrade kit that comes with the siren, LED, and shock sensor. The siren works fine but is not that loud. I read that there is a black looped wire you can cut to make the siren louder but there isnt one on my siren. Can anyone help?

Good to know the rear defroster works. Im wondering if there is a separate wire behind the hvac controls specifically for the rear defrost button light.

My r/s does have this programmable feature. Thats great I will program it soon...here is what it says... 3-03 Dome Light Delay: This option is used when connecting the door trigger input to the vehicles dome light circuit. It delays the door trigger input to prevent the door open icon displaying on 2 Way remotes upon lock/arm. FO1- Off: (default) FO2 - 5 seconds: This option will delay the door trigger input for 5 seconds when arming the system to account for any vehicle dome light output delay. FO3 - 45 seconds: This option will delay the door trigger input for 45 seconds when arming the system to account for any vehicle dome light output delay. FO4 - Auto: This option will allow the CM7 to wait for a change in polarity on the door input circuit, after the system has been armed, to monitor for security.

Also, you said you have the r/s dome light wire hooked up. Do your dome lights turn off as soon as you shut your door?