dooo

Sounds like a shop looking to give you a wallet flush to me. .9* is perfectly acceptable for front camber and as long as the other side is of similar value I wouldn't worry about it. The difference in tire wear between having front camber 'within spec' and .9* is very, very minimal.

Please explain why you think that comment is necessary.

Hi guys, I am wondering if any other Fusion owners have found any signs of corrosion on the roof between the windshield and sunroof. My 2010 Sport has severe corrosion in this area and Ford will not cover this under their warranty as it ended 1 month before I reported the problem. I take full responsibility for not making my dealer aware of this rust sooner but I also believe that this kind of corrosion is appalling for this kind of vehicle and has been happening for a very long period of time. To be clear, this car has been used ALOT since new and covered 90k km per year until recently, only stopping for routine maintenance. let me show you: I have been quoted $3200 CAN to repair this roof (not the sunroof part) and both body shops tell me that the corrosion started inside the car. There is a metal surround on the sunroof which sits against the inside of the roof with a foam insert. This whole area is corroded beyond repair and when my sunglasses holder/interior light was removed patches of rust fell down inside the car, they tell me it's a very grim scene for any car never mind a 2010! The dealer admitted that there are not stone chips and that it would be covered by warranty easily if I had reported it a month earlier. I am wondering if any other Fusions are showing signs of this.

Sorry to hear about the accident. SRS systems in modern cars tend to be very intelligent and while an error is possible, I would say deployment was unlikely in this event. I have attached a picture of my 2009 Focus from after I hit a deer at 90km/h. The front panel is crushed so badly that it hit and broke the engine intake manifold. What I found remarkable was that the front crash sensor is located on the centre of the front panel, at the top, above the radiator. There was no airbag deployment which I was very grateful for as I was not injured and the car was repaired.

I don't think yours will be as nasty as mine...

Yes, I have access to AutoEnginuity. I will check to see if it has the Ford package. Thanks.

If the nut is turning with the screw (I think it's a stud) then you can hold the torx part with vice grips or pliers and turn the nut with a wrench. the stud is also screwed into the plastic on the inside.

thefoeyouknow, thanks for the heads up but I feel that the behaviour of this moderator has been unacceptable. I originally asked what could be the problem with the programming and to me, phrases like 'If you had read the instructions' and "Think about it' are not friendly in the first place never mind 'Read The Fucking Manual'. I did search the forums before I started my own topic but I wanted to know why my car would go into programming mode but would not complete the procedure. With your help I did find the answer to my question but Akirby is still clueless as he still thinks that 'With IKTs you're stuck with dealer programming.'. That is wrong and if he does not know that keys can be programmed to lock/unlock doors with only 1 original key, including IKTs on some models then he should not have joined this discussion. I hope to join discussions in these forums in the future but I will never tell anyone to RTFM! thanks again for your help.

akirby, I think it's clear that you don't have a clue what you are talking about. thefoeyouknow, thanks very much for the information, thats exactly the information I was looking for. I will let the dealer program everything.

I have programmed this type of key before on my own 2008 Escape amongst others. It only had 1 key so I programmed the locks and took it to the dealer to program the transopnder.

Both keys are OUCD6000022

thefoeyouknow, thanks for the back up, I was about to lose the plot with these moderators! I can get the car into programming mode (the locks cycle) and then each time I press a fob button the horn sounds but there is no lock cycle and the new fob is not programmed.

That is the system I am using and believe should work.

Really guys, I thought this was the best place to discuss Ford Fusions! I do not have the owners manual and thanks for the link. Unfortunately your quote is for programming the key to start the car. Every man and his dog knows that the car has to go to a dealer or auto locksmith to have the transponder programmed if there is only 1 key. Every man and his dog also know that as long as there has been Ford key fobs they are easily programmable to lock and unlock the doors by turning the key on 8 times until the locks operate, pressing buttons of your fob(s) and then turning the key off. Usually the locks operate with each successful fob programming but my horn sounds each time I press a button. I have programmed countless Fords this way, Focus, Escape, Taurus and lots of other models all with only 1 key. I would have thought that if this Fusion was different then it would not let me into the programming mode.

Mr Moderator, you are saying that I need 2 key for the vehicle to program a new fob to lock and unlock the doors?