Mr.Nobody

When I searched at parts.ford.com with my VIN, it actually showed two models of 12v battery shown as "fit", BXT67R and BAGM96R. I think the factory one is the 67R IIRC, is this 96R an updated version of it? 96R is around 200, while the 67R is about 160 around my local dealerships. Thanks a lot.

My TPMS has a faulty alert on now after being on and off intermittently for the past couple of years. Seems like the TPMS sensors need to be swapped out. Generally I know that it should be done when installing the new tires to save some labor, but I probably won't need new tires for another year or two. Wonder if it makes sensor just to buy the sensors and ask my local garage to put them on or live with it and check TP myself from time to time which I do not mind that much. I don't know if there are other reasons to have the sensors installed during the tire installation other than saving the inevitable labor to discount the tire from rims. Thanks a lot.

Oh and for folks who paid out of pocket for the TSB before this 22G04 thing, you should be able to get refund from dealership according to the mail I got. Says you have one year from the notice to get it no-cost, otherwise it would only be free for cars within certain mileage range (too old, too used, gotta pay).

Did you undo the age fix or just let dealership install the 22G04 on top of that?

Install the forscan software first, and move the key file you got from them to the folder where forscan was installed. Then in the software setting/configuration (about software), there is a button to install key file.

Update: Interesting how it panned out. So I wasn't able to make the veepeak usb adapter connect at all after trying it on two laptops (win10 and win11), and multiple different software, drivers, etc. I plugged in my bafx bluetooth adapter and it connected to forscan fine, although a warning msg saying it is underpowered and not recommended. I was able to locate the battery age and change it to 1, write it. However, I wasn't able to "disconnect" from forscan, clicking that disconnect icon did not do anything. I also heard about some noise when I wrote the value in, and I actually see the "stop safely now" warning sign immediately after the value writing. I turn off and on ignition, and everything appeared normal, no warning etc. I unplugged and plugged back in the bluetooth adapter and checked the battery age to be one as written. My battery gauge was low at that moment, so the ICE kicked in and started to charge the HVB, and stopped at about half way. Took it out for a ride, first change I noticed is the EV gauge increased. Before that, my EV gauge (green bar) was maybe two bars (solid green) in empower mode, and now it goes to about 4 bars, with 2bars solid green and the top 2bars empty below a green boarder. Also, the car stays in EV mode much longer and frequently. I can go at 20mph for EV mode easily, but above that it would be going downhill or after ICE kicked in for the acceleration. I drove for 2.4miles, with two big uphills, although I noticed the difference in EV mode, the mpg was only 25 for this short trip. I also noticed that when going downhill, if ICE is not on, HVB is not charging (no upward arrow), although I vaguely recall before the fix, it would. Can you guys tell me if everything looks normal so far? Bought the veepeak usb adapter, installed the driver and all. But forscan release software would not recognize the adapter at all, I can see two green lights flashing, when it tries to connect through the right COM port, but would never connect. Any ideas how to solve this?

OK. Seems to be a similar swap job except maybe the need to loosening up air intake to access bolts. My 2010's battery probably is close to 8 yrs old, but not having any low battery symptoms yet, do I want to go proactive and put a new OEM on? What are the early symptoms that the battery is weak for this hybrid? I hate to get SSN type of thing, losing power at highway etc... Also when getting the battery from ford dealer, do they have core charge as well (you need to return the old battery back?). BTW, AAP has a DieHard exact fit 67R too, about $200, not sure if their coupons can apply to that.

Where do you guys get the coolant for this electronic motor reservoir other than ford dealership? VC-10-A2 Green coolant from owner's manual. Also when checking on ford part number, this vc-10-a2 also has a vc-13-g listed, but vc-13-g is orange coolant. Which type is it exactly or they are interchangable? I suppose the engine coolant just use the regular coolant for ICE right?

I've always been a little anxious when it comes to having my local shop to do maintenance/repair on the hybrid other than oil change, as there are some differences between the regular ICE version Fusion and the hybrid. For example, can the coolant flush be done by non-dealer (there are two different coolant reservoirs, seemingly different coolant type)? Is there specific things need to be set for the brake rotor and pads replacement (coz of the regen) that only dealer know how to? I have a few of these items overdue, so far I don't have any problems, but would want to get myself ready when I need to bring the car in. Thanks so much.

Can you point to some instruction on how to change that? And what might be the symptoms when it started to have problems?

I've changed my ICE mercury milan's battery a couple of times. So if I buy the OEM motorcraft battery, is it the same process/sequence to swap it on? I never had to "reset" anything when changing the ICE car's battery (2008 car, so not that much electronics portion). The owner's guide has all that info I suppose? Thanks a lot.

The perfectionist side of me is also curious what's in the TSB fix, as it contains more than the battery control reprogram, although the practical side is saying don't be paranoid for this 12 yr old car. Would be nice, if someone who got the TSB fix would be able to share (maybe with the scan) what else (i.e. PCM program) is done. $12 is for one year of forscan license right, not lifetime? Also, i noticed some minor oil leaking from bottom a day after the spark plug change, not sure what exactly caused it. How did you find out cylinder 2 and 3 is leaking oil? Some oil on the spark plugs?

Is there a recommend replacement battery other than the stock motorcraft? I vaguely recall that the stock battery has some weaker specs than desirable, also there need to be additional steps compared to the regular ICE cars (reset hybrid setting etc). Is it an easy DIY or more suitable for dealership? Thanks a lot.

I've been experiencing mpg drop for a couple of years, never would've thought about the battery control. I actually changed spark plugs two days ago because of this. Found the TSB info over reddit and google lead me back to the forum. Bought it used back in 2016 with 85k miles, was able to get 42mpg in the first couple of years, but now, only hovering around 30-31mpg currently at 112k miles. A few questions: 1. Now with the official TSB out, would dealer do this "upgrade" for free or at charge? I do need to take the car in for the airbag recall, so if free, I'd let them do it. 2. Does a bluetooth OBDII reader device work with Forscan software too, especially the writing part? I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 3. OP says reset back to year 1, my only question is if that would change the battery control too aggressively? Not sure the exact control algorithm, esp the difference between yr 1 to say yr 5 though, but I'd think for a new battery, the charging/maintenance control could be vastly different. 4. A related issue is, do you guys feel the throttle body replacement would be a relevant maintenance work even though I have not experienced any "wrench" problem. Actually the 1st owner did experienced it and ford dealer took care of it (not sure if throttle body got swapped out then). Thanks a lot. Edit:

Take of the wheel, it could be an entirely worn out pad because of sticking caliper or maladjusted parking brake. Check the pad condition.