Jeremy Wright

Even worse: With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. Release the fuel system pressure. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Recover the air conditioning system. Place the steering wheel in the straight ahead position and the ignition key in the OFF position. Remove the 2 nuts and the steering joint cover. WARNING Do not allow the intermediate shaft to rotate while it is disconnected from the gear or damage to the clockspring can occur. If there is evidence that the intermediate shaft has rotated, the clockspring must be removed and recentered. NOTE Matchmark the installed position of the steering column shaft position to the steering gear for reference during installation. Remove the bolt and disconnect the steering column shaft from the steering gear. Drain the cooling system. Remove the 4 screws and position the RH fender splash shield aside. Remove the 6 pin-type retainers (4 shown) and the RH splash shield. Remove the 4 screws and position the LH fender splash shield aside. Remove the 6 pin-type retainers (4 shown) and the LH splash shield. Disconnect the power steering hose and drain the power steering fluid into a suitable drain pan. Remove the exhaust flexible pipe. For All wheel drive (AWD) vehicles: NOTE Matchmark the driveshaft for installation. Remove the 4 bolts (3 shown) and support the driveshaft with a length of mechanic's wire. WARNING The steering gear-to-dash seal must be removed or it will be damaged when lowering the subframe. Release the 4 clips and slide the steering gear-to-dash seal off of the steering gear and into the passenger compartment. Remove the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) hose bracket bolt. Remove and discard the PSP hose banjo bolt and the 2 seals from the steering gear. If equipped, remove the 2 bolts and the heat shield. Remove the 2 bolts and the engine roll restrictor. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the tie-rod ends. Using the a suitable tie-rod end removal tool, separate the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckles. Remove the nuts and separate the stabilizer bar links from the struts. Remove the lower ball joint nuts. WARNING When the lower ball joint is separated from the wheel knuckle, the lower arm may strike the outer constant velocity (CV) joint boot with enough force to damage the boot clamp. This will result in a loss of grease from the outer CV joint. Place a block of wood, or similar item, between the lower arm and the outer CV joint to prevent the lower arm from striking the outer CV joint. NOTE Once pressure is applied to the ball joint with the special tool, it may be necessary to tap the wheel knuckle at the ball joint area to separate the ball joint from the wheel knuckle. Using the special tools, separate the lower ball joints from the lower control arms. Using the special tools, separate the lower ball joints from the lower control arms Remove the through bolts from the lower control arms. Position the special tool under the subframe assembly. Position the special tool under the subframe assembly Remove the subframe bracket-to-body bolts. Remove the subframe nuts and the subframe brackets. Remove the front subframe nuts. Lower the subframe assembly from the vehicle. Disconnect the transaxle cooler hoses. Remove the drain plug and drain the engine oil. Install the drain plug and tighten to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). Remove and discard the engine oil filter. Remove the engine air cleaner and air cleaner outlet pipe. Remove the battery tray. Remove the nut and disconnect the power feed wire from the battery terminal. Disconnect the 2 engine wiring harness electrical connectors. Remove the bolt and position aside the ground wire. Disconnect the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) electrical connector and the pin-type retainer. Disconnect the fuel supply tube from the fuel rail. Disconnect the heater hose from the thermostat housing. Disconnect the heater hose inline connection. Disconnect the throttle body coolant hose. Disconnect the Evaporative emissions (EVAP) hose. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses from the thermostat housing. Disconnect the transaxle control cable from the transaxle selector lever. Remove the 3 transaxle control cable bracket bolts and position the cable aside. Remove the bolt and position the ground wire aside. Remove the vacuum tube bracket bolt. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold. If equipped, detach the block heater cable retaining clips from the cooling fan shroud. Disconnect the power steering hose from the power steering reservoir. Detach the power steering hose retaining clip from the LH valve cover stud bolt and the engine wiring harness. Disconnect the coolant hose from the degas bottle. Detach the coolant hose retaining clip and position the coolant hose aside. Remove the 2 A/C tube bracket bolts. Remove the 2 nuts and disconnect the A/C tubes. Remove the bolt and the ground wire from the engine mount bracket. Remove the bolt and separate the A/C manifold from the A/C compressor. Using the special tools, separate the LH halfshaft from the transaxle and support the halfshaft with a length of mechanic's wire. Using the special tools, separate the LH halfshaft from the transaxle and support the halfshaft with a length of mechanic's wire For early build Front Wheel Drive (FWD) vehicles: Disconnect the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor electrical connector and pin-type retainer. Disconnect the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch electrical connector. Disconnect the catalyst monitor sensor electrical connector and pin-type retainer. For FWD vehicles: Remove the 2 RH halfshaft carrier bearing bracket bolts. Separate the RH halfshaft from the transaxle and support the halfshaft with a length of mechanic's wire. For AWD vehicles: Disconnect the RH catalyst monitor sensor electrical connector and detach the wiring retainer. Using the special sensor tool, remove the RH catalyst monitor sensor. Disconnect the RH heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector. Using the special tool, remove the RH HO2S. Remove the 6 bolts and the RH exhaust heat shield. Remove the 3 nuts and the RH exhaust heat shield bracket (outboard half). Remove the 2 bolts and the RH exhaust heat shield bracket (inboard half). Remove the 3 nuts (2 shown) and the RH catalytic converter. Discard the nuts and gasket. Remove the 2 halfshaft carrier bearing bolts. Separate the RH halfshaft from the power transfer unit (PTU) and support the halfshaft with a length of mechanic's wire. Remove the 5 bolts and the PTU support bracket Remove the 5 bolts and the PTU. Remove the torque converter nut access plug. Remove the 3 torque converter nuts. Remove the 2 oil pan-to-transaxle bolts. NOTE Position a suitable block of wood under the transaxle. Install the special tools onto the engine. Raise the engine and transaxle 25.4 mm (1 in) to neutralize the engine and transaxle mounts. Install the special tools onto the engine, then raise the engine and transaxle 25.4 mm (1 in) to neutralize the engine and transaxle mounts Remove the 2 transaxle mount bolts. Remove the bolt and damper. Remove the bolt, 3 nuts and the engine mount bracket. Lower the engine and transaxle from the vehicle. Install the special tools. Detach the wiring harness retainer from the PSP hose bracket. Remove the bolt and detach the PSP hose bracket from the cylinder head. Remove the bolt and detach the PSP hose bracket from the cylinder head. Remove the bolt and detach the PSP hose bracket from the power steering reservoir. Remove the banjo bolt and the PSP hose. Discard the banjo bolt and 2 seals. Install the special tool. Install the special tool Disconnect the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve electrical connector. Loosen the EGR tube-to-EGR valve nut. Remove the 2 bolts and the EGR valve. Discard the gasket. Loosen the EGR tube-to-catalytic converter nut and remove the EGR tube. For FWD vehicles: Remove the 2 bolts and the heat shield. Remove the 2 bolts and the catalytic converter bracket. Remove the 2 bolts and the catalytic converter bracket assembly. NOTE When installing the lower half of the lifting bracket it will be easier to loosely install the upper bolt first then install the lower bolt. Install the lower half of the special tool. Install the upper half of the special tool. Install the lower half of the special tool Install the upper half of the special tool Using the special tools and a suitable engine crane, remove the engine and transaxle from the lift table. Using the special tools and a suitable engine crane, remove the engine and transaxle from the lift table Remove the bolt and ground wire. Remove the bolt and the catalyst monitor sensor electrical connector bracket. Disconnect the Transmission Control Module (TCM) electrical connector. Remove the 2 nuts and the starter motor wiring. Remove the 2 bolts and the starter motor. Remove the engine-to-transaxle bolt. Remove the 3 transaxle-to-engine bolts. Detach the wiring harness retainer from the stud bolt. Remove the transaxle-to-engine stud bolt, bolt and nut. Using the special tools and a suitable engine crane, separate the engine and transaxle. Using the special tools and a suitable engine crane, separate the engine and transaxle To install: WARNING If the oil pan was removed during engine disassembly, it must be installed after engine and transaxle are assembled and the transaxle-to-engine bolts are installed. Failure to follow this assembly sequence can result in engine oil leaks. Using the special tools and a suitable engine crane, align the transaxle to the engine. Install the transaxle-to-engine stud bolt, bolt and nut. Tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm). Attach the wiring harness retainer to the stud bolt. Install the 3 transaxle-to-engine bolts. Tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm). Install the engine-to-transaxle bolt. Tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm). WARNING Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of the oil pan gasket. Clean all sealing surfaces with metal surface cleaner and install a new oil pan gasket. NOTE The oil pan must be installed and the bolts tightened within 4 minutes of sealant application. Apply a 10 mm (0.39 in) diameter dot of silicone sealant to the areas indicated. Apply a 10 mm (0.39 in) diameter dot of silicone sealant to the areas indicated Position the oil pan and install the 10 bolts and 5 stud bolts finger-tight. Install the 2 oil pan-to-transaxle bolts. Tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm). Tighten the 15 oil pan-to-engine bolts and stud bolts in the sequence shown to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Oil pan-to-engine retainer tightening sequence—3.0L engine Install 6 new LH catalytic converter studs. Tighten to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm). Install a new gasket, the LH catalytic converter and 6 new nuts. Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) in the sequence shown. Install a new gasket, the LH catalytic converter and 6 new nuts. Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) in the proper sequence Install the LH catalytic converter bracket and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Install the heat shield and the 4 bolts. Tighten to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm). Connect the LH heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector and pin-type retainer. Connect the LH catalyst monitor sensor electrical connector. Install the starter motor and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). Connect the starter motor wiring and install the 2 nuts: Tighten the large nut to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm). Tighten the small nut to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Connect the Transmission Control Module (TCM) electrical connector. Install the catalyst monitor sensor bracket and the bolt. Tighten to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm). Install the ground wire and the bolt. Tighten to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm). Using the special tools and a suitable engine crane, position the engine and transaxle onto the lift table. NOTE Position a suitable block of wood under the transaxle. Install the special tools. Install the special tools For FWD vehicles: Install the catalytic converter bracket assembly and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). Install the catalytic converter bracket and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Install the heat shield and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm). Using a new gasket, install the EGR valve and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Install the EGR tube. Tighten both EGR tube nuts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Connect the EGR valve electrical connector. Position the PSP hose on the engine and install the PSP hose bracket-to-power steering reservoir bolt. Tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Using a new banjo bolt and 2 seals, connect the PSP hose to the power steering pump. Tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). Attach the PSP hose bracket to the cylinder head and install the bolt. Tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Attach the PSP hose bracket to the cylinder head and install the bolt. Tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Attach the wiring harness retainer to the PSP hose bracket. Raise the engine and transaxle up into the vehicle. Install the engine mount bracket, 3 nuts and the bolt: Tighten the nuts to 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm). Tighten the bolt to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm). Install the damper and bolt. Tighten to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). Install the 2 transaxle mount bolts. Tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm). Install the 3 torque converter nuts. Tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm). Install the torque converter nut access plug. For AWD vehicles: Install the power transfer unit (PTU) and the 5 bolts. Tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm). Install the PTU support bracket and the 5 bolts. Tighten to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm). WARNING A new power transfer unit (PTU) seal must be installed whenever the intermediate shaft is removed. Install a new PTU seal. NOTE Prior to installation of the halfshaft, inspect the halfshaft sealing surface for wear or damage and install new, if necessary. Position the RH driveshaft in place and install the 2 bolts. Tighten to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). Using a new gasket, install the RH catalytic converter and 3 new nuts. Tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm). Install the RH exhaust heat shield bracket (inboard half) and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Install the RH exhaust heat shield bracket (outboard half) and the 3 nuts. Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Install the RH exhaust heat shield and the 6 bolts. Tighten to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm). Using the special tool, install the RH HO2S. Tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm). Connect the RH HO2S electrical connector. Using the special tool, install the RH catalytic monitor sensor. Tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm). Connect the RH catalyst monitor sensor electrical connector and attach the wiring harness retainer. For FWD vehicles: Install the RH halfshaft into the transaxle. Install the 2 RH halfshaft carrier bearing bracket bolts. Tighten to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). For Early build FWD vehicles: Connect the catalyst monitor sensor electrical connector and pin-type retainer. Connect the PSP switch electrical connector. Connect the CKP sensor electrical connector and pin-type retainer. NOTE Prior to installation of the halfshaft, inspect the halfshaft sealing surface for wear or damage and install new, if necessary. NOTE Start one end of the circlip in the groove and work the circlip over the halfshaft and into the groove to prevent the circlip from over expanding. Install a new circlip in the groove on the LH halfshaft. Install the LH halfshaft into the transaxle. Position the A/C manifold onto the A/C compressor and install the bolt. Tighten to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). Install the ground wire and bolt to the engine mount bracket. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Connect the A/C tubes and install the 2 nuts. Tighten to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm). Install the 2 A/C tube bracket bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Attach the coolant hose retaining clip. Connect the coolant hose to the degas bottle. Attach the power steering hose retaining clip to the engine wiring harness and the LH valve cover stud bolt. Connect the power steering hose to the power steering reservoir. If equipped, attach the block heater cable retaining clips to the cooling fan shroud. Connect the vacuum hose to the intake manifold. Install the vacuum tube bracket bolt. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Install the ground wire and the bolt. Tighten to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm). Install the transaxle control cable bracket and the 3 bolts. Tighten to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm). Connect the transaxle control cable to the transaxle selector lever. Connect the upper and lower radiator hoses to the thermostat housing. Connect the EVAP hose. Connect the throttle body coolant hose. Connect the heater hose inline connection. Connect the heater hose to the thermostat housing. Connect the fuel supply tube to the fuel rail. Connect the PCM electrical connector and the pin-type retainer. Install the ground wire and bolt. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Connect the 2 engine wiring harness electrical connectors. Connect the power feed to the battery terminal and install the nut. Tighten to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm). Install the battery tray. Install the engine air cleaner and air cleaner outlet pipe. NOTE Lubricate the engine oil filter gasket with clean engine oil prior to installing. Install a new engine oil filter. Tighten to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm) and then rotate an additional 180 degrees. Connect the transaxle cooler hoses. Place the subframe assembly on the special tool and raise the subframe into the installed position. Install the front subframe nuts. Tighten to 111 ft. lbs. (150 Nm). Position the subframe brackets and install the bolts finger-tight. Install the subframe nuts. Tighten to 111 ft. lbs. (150 Nm). Tighten the subframe bracket-to-body bolts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Install the through bolts into the lower control arms. Tighten to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Install the lower ball joint nuts. Tighten to 148 ft. lbs. (200 Nm). Install the sway bar links and nuts to the struts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Connect the power steering cooler hose. Install the tie-rod ends and nuts. Tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm). Install the cotter pin. Install the LH splash shield and the 6 pin-type retainers (4 shown). Position the LH fender splash shield and install the 4 screws. Install the RH splash shield and the 6 pin-type retainers (4 shown). Position the RH fender splash shield and install the 4 screws. Install the engine roll restrictor and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm). If equipped, install the heat shield and the 2 bolts. Using a new banjo bolt and 2 seals, connect the PSP hose to the power steering gear. Tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). Position the PSP hose onto the steering gear and install the PSP hose bracket bolt. Tighten to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). Slide the steering gear-to-dash seal onto the steering gear and engage the 4 retaining clips into the body. From under the vehicle, verify that the seal is properly installed on the steering gear and the retaining clips are fully engaged into the body. For AWD vehicles: Line up the index marks on the rear driveshaft to the index marks on the PTU flange made during removal and install the 4 bolts (3 shown). Tighten to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm). Install the exhaust flexible pipe. NOTE Align the index marks made during removal. Install the steering intermediate shaft onto the steering gear and install the bolt. Tighten to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). Install the steering joint cover and the 2 nuts. Fill the engine with clean engine oil. Connect the battery ground cable. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Fill the power steering system. Check the transaxle fluid and add fluid if necessary. Recharge the air conditioning system

Yeah, that's the crazy thing is, it actually runs RELATIVELY smooth until there is a load or demand on the engine. I'm going to pop the valve covers and just sneak a peak at those tensioner assemblies. Look at this timing procedure. WOW. Remove the engine front/timing chain cover, as outlined in this section. WARNING This pulse wheel is used in several different engines. Install the pulse wheel with the keyway in the slot stamped 30RFF (orange in color). Remove the ignition pulse wheel. Install the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer. Remove the 6 spark plugs Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to position the crankshaft keyway in the 11 o'clock position and position the camshafts in the correct position. This will position the No.1 cylinder at top dead center (TDC): Verify that the camshafts are correctly located. If not, rotate the crankshaft one additional turn and recheck. Verify that the camshafts are correctly located. If not, rotate the crankshaft one additional turn and recheck—3.0L engine Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 120 degrees to the 3 o'clock position to position the RH camshafts in the neutral position. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 120 degrees to the 3 o'clock position to position the RH camshafts in the neutral position—3.0L engine Verify that the RH camshafts are in the neutral position. Verify that the RH camshafts are in the neutral position—3.0L engine Remove the RH timing chain tensioner arm: Remove the 2 bolts. Remove the tensioner. Remove the tensioner arm. Remove the RH timing chain. Remove the 3 bolts and the RH VCT assembly. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 600 degrees (1-2/3 turns) to position the crankshaft keyway in the 11 o'clock position. This will position the LH camshafts in the neutral position. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 600 degrees (1-2/3 turns) to position the crankshaft keyway in the 11 o'clock position. This will position the LH camshafts in the neutral position—3.0L engine Verify the LH camshafts are in the neutral position. Verify the LH camshafts are in the neutral position—3.0L engine Remove the LH timing chain tensioner and tensioner arm: Remove the 2 bolts. Remove the tensioner. Remove the tensioner arm. Remove the LH timing chain. Remove the 4 bolts and the LH VCT assembly. Remove the pulley bolt, washer and the crankshaft sprocket. To install: Install the crankshaft sprockets with the timing marks out. Install the crankshaft sprockets with the timing marks out—3.0L engine Position the chain tensioner in a soft-jawed vise. Hold the chain tensioner ratchet lock mechanism away from the ratchet stem with a small pick. Hold the chain tensioner ratchet lock mechanism away from the ratchet stem with a small pick WARNING During tensioner compression, do not release the ratchet stem until the tensioner piston is fully bottomed in its bore or damage to the ratchet stem will result. Slowly compress the timing chain tensioner. Retain the tensioner piston with a 1.5 mm (0.05 in) wire or paper clip. Retain the tensioner piston with a 1.5 mm (0.05 in) wire or paper clip—3.0L engine If timing marks in the timing chains are not evident, use a permanent-type marker to mark the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks on the LH and RH timing chains. Mark any link to use as the crankshaft timing mark. Starting with the crankshaft timing mark, count counterclockwise 29 links and mark the link. Continue counting counterclockwise to link 42 and mark the link. Mark any link to use as the crankshaft timing mark (1). Starting with the crankshaft timing mark, count counterclockwise 29 links and mark the link (2). Continue counting counterclockwise to link 42 and mark the link (3)—3.0L engine Verify that the LH camshafts are correctly positioned. Verify that the LH camshafts are correctly positioned Install the variable camshaft timing (VCT) assembly and the 4 bolts. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Install the LH timing chain. Align the marks on the timing chain with the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Align the marks on the timing chain with the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets Install the LH timing chain tensioner arm and the LH timing chain tensioner: Install the tensioner arm. Position the tensioner. Install the 2 bolts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Install the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer and rotate the crankshaft clockwise 120 degrees until the crankshaft keyway is in the 3 o'clock position. Install the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer and rotate the crankshaft clockwise 120 degrees until the crankshaft keyway is in the 3 o'clock position Verify that the RH camshafts are correctly positioned. Verify that the RH camshafts are correctly positioned Install the RH VCT assembly and the 3 bolts. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Install the RH timing chain. Align the marks on the timing chain with the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Align the marks on the timing chain with the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Install the RH timing chain tensioner and tensioner arm: Install the tensioner arm. Position the tensioner. Install the 2 bolts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Remove the LH and RH timing chain tensioner piston retaining wires. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 120 degrees to top dead center (TDC). WARNING Failure to verify correct timing drive component alignment will result in severe engine damage. Verify the timing with the following steps. There should be 12 chain links between the camshaft timing marks. There should be 27 chain links between the camshaft and the crankshaft timing marks. There should be 30 chain links between the camshaft and the crankshaft timing marks. There should be 12 chain links between the camshaft timing marks (1). There should be 27 chain links between the camshaft and the crankshaft timing marks (2). There should be 30 chain links between the camshaft and the crankshaft timing marks (3). Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer. WARNING This pulse wheel is used in several different engines. Install the pulse wheel with the keyway in the slot stamped 30RFF only (orange in color). Install the ignition pulse wheel. Install the 6 spark plugs. Tighten to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). Install the engine front/timing chain cover, as outlined in this section. »

Wonderful recommendation on plugs, but that's always an obvious. When dealing with a Ford product, it's Motorcraft. Oil is full, and is not really all that clean. Viscosity is there but, a lot of suit build up. Compression was at 142, 144, 144, 148, 142, and 146 at WOT. Oil and filter screening were as follows:

I got it to work this time. As you can tell, it runs fairly decent but, something isn't right. It pings like a diesel!

UPDATE: So I replaced the intake gaskets, spark plugs, and EGR Valve gasket with no luck. Exact same symptoms. So I raised the vehicle, put it on jackstands, unbolted the exhaust from the after the Y-Pipe and fired it up. It seems to run a little better not having the exhaust on, but, when I put it in gear and accelerate the engine, it'll accelerate with ease, but the minute I apply the brake to prevent it from freewheeling on the deceleration, it starts popping and hesitating. Then I realized, it pops when it's under a load. So I let it idle, and turned on the A/C compressor and sure enough, it starts popping and stumbling. If I turn it off, it smooths out. No CEL, just pending codes for EGR incorrect flow (P0400), and Bank 1 and 2 stuck rich without switching (P2195 and P2198). So why would it only pop and stumble under load. I think I've ruled out Catalytic converter clogged given that it runs the same with no exhaust. I thought it could be the EGR vave opening a direct line of exhaust into the intake but, when I unplug it, it starts stumbling even worse. So, what am I missing? I'm starting to think maybe a bad PCM but, wouldn't the CEL illuminate and have some pretty specific codes relating to that?

Thanks for the input FusionDiffusion. I have an update and it kind of changes everything. Let me know what you think. So, I took the car out for a nice long drive running it through various different RPM ranges. It had really poor acceleration and the popping resumed at a cruising speed. After a good 30 minute ride, I came back to the house and put it back on the scanner. There are two current codes, P2195 and P2198 which impies bank 1 and bank one and two are lacking the ability to switch meaning it has added the maximum amount of gas to compensate for a massive unmetered air leak (post MAF). So now I'm going to take the upper and lower intake manifold off to replace the gaskets. I don't have O2 circuit related issues so, hopefully these O2 Sensors can pull out of this, otherwise, I'll likely end up having to replace all 4 and the Catalytic Converter. While disassembling, I decided I'd change the plugs too since I don't know when the last time it was done. WELL, I WAS ASTONISHED TO SEE, the back 3 cylinders had standard copper grade Autolites, and the front three cylinders had 1 Autolite Platinum, 1 Motorcraft standard copper grade, and 1 Autolite Iridium grade plug. Someone either got really creative or really lazy there! I'm going to be installing the gaskets and the spark plugs today. Hopefully it'll all come together afterwards!

Hello group, first off, thanks for the help in advance! Reading over this forum has provided me with a swell of information. I appreciate all you owners and professionals taking your time to contribute! So I just bought this 2007 Fusion SE (3.0L Duratec, Auto, 84k on the O.D.) for $2,400 from a guy who said it needed an engine replacement. It had an extra empty gas tank so, I added one bottle of Lucas fuel system treatment, and a full tank of Premium gas from my trusted gas station. It also had a completely dead battery(Left it on the conditioner and it nursed it back to 94% health). Upon further investigation, it actually drives half way decent. No knocking, doesn't smoke, clean oil, and great oil pressure. While it's running though, the exhaust wreaks of gasoline and it's making this popcorn sound under the plastic intake manifold. It almost sounds like random detonations. It has poor acceleration but once you get going, it'll coast and drive just fine when it has inertia on it's side. It does have a CEL so, I tested that. I ran the CEL and it resulted Loss of PCM/BCM Communication, Cylinder 6 Injector Fault, Bank 1 lean, and Insufficient EGR flow. So I bought the injector and all the gaskets for the intake job, after taking apart the intake, I realized the number 6 injector was actually just slightly unplugged. During the dis-assembly, I payed close attention to the vacuum lines to try to narrow down the Bank 1 Lean code. I found one of the upper intake manifold bolts to be sheared off and a visible leak could be seen (dirt sediments built up over the moisture escaping from the manifold in conjunction with slight oil residue on the face of the intake o-ring). So I reassembled everything, cleared the CEL and restarted the vehicle hoping all the problems would be solved. Unfortunately, the idle is actually more erratic and the popping is much more constant. Upon running the diagnostics VIA the OBD port, the engine only has one pending code for P2198. My interpretation of P2198 is a lack of oxygen sensor switching, indicating a rich condition. So if I'm correct, the fuel system is trying to adjust to an overly lean condition and it's now maxed out on the rich side. So, what I know is that I reassembled and torqued everything correctly and there are no sucking openings. So, what am I missing? I don't see or hear any large vacuum leaks. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. After letting it run, I attempted to hold the RPM's at 2500 to elevate the exhaust gas temperatures. The car can barely sustain 2000 with no level of stability. If you release the accelerator pedal and hit it to the floor, it'll briefly surge to 3500-3800 before bogging way down to a rough and erratic idle. I'm kind of leaning towards a congested catalytic converter due to the fact that there are no other codes and it honestly seems like it just can't breathe. Thank you very much! Video/Sound File Link I have included a link of a video/sound file to allow you to hear the symptoms