firewire

I’m not sure what you mean by reset the battery monitoring system but this can only be done by the dealer, or by the clever reset using the headlight switch and brake method posted in this thread. As far as I know the system needs to be rest manually and does not reset itself.

Interesting that you should be able to replace a battery with a better one, however the manual says replace with the same battery. But does not explain the reason. This may be because of the battery monitoring system which adjusts the charge depending on the age of the battery. It reads how old the battery is and charges it accordingly, and must be reset when the battery is replaced. If you replace it with a better battery thr BMS may not be able to charge it properly, resulting in shorter battery life.

NCEcoboost I would suggest you not reset the BMS unless you have replaced the battery. The system charges according to the age of the battery and can ruin the battery if the charge and battery age don’t match. If the system is reset on an old battery it may not charge enough, which could cause the system to shut down and the error message to display.

I have a 2013 Fusion Titanium (as well as a 2017 Sport) and replaced the original battery after 5 years, which I thought was a good battery life cycle. The new battery went bad after 2 years, which surprised me, as I had installed a new Motorcraft battery myself, not wanting to pay the $150/hour shop labour rate for something I could easily do. After the 2 years I started getting the message "system off to save battery" and then accessory power would not run when the car was turned off, similar to other reports on this thread. I took the car to the Ford dealer where they ran tests and pronounced the battery bad. Since it had been bought from Ford but installed myself they replaced the battery under warranty, but charged me for the diagnosis. As it turns out I was not aware of the battery monitoring system the computer in newer cars now have, not just Ford. This system reads the length of time the battery has been in service, and needs to be reset when replacing the battery. When not reset the computer thinks the battery is old and tells the alternator to charge at a higher rate than a new battery needs. This can ruin the battery - probably what happened to me. This is not well known and when I took my car to the dealer because of the bad battery, they replaced it but forgot to reset the BMS. This is how I learned of the issue, and think that many others on this forum may have the same problem by not doing the reset because they are unaware of this issue. I went to the manual but it does not explain this (page 251). It says: "When a low voltage battery replacement is necessary, see an authorized dealer to replace the low voltage battery with a Ford recommended replacement low voltage battery that matches the electrical requirements of the vehicle. To ensure proper operation of the battery management system (BMS), do not allow a technician to connect any electrical device ground connection directly to the low voltage battery negative post. A connection at the low voltage battery negative post can cause inaccurate measurements of the battery condition and potential incorrect system operation." The car went back to the shop and the dealer apologized for forgetting the reset (I was still getting the "system off" message), but once reset it has been fine ever since, and runs on retained accessory power for 10 minutes before shutting off. The dealer has a proprietary computer system to reset the monitor, so again will charge for this at shop rates if you install your own battery. There is a secret fix for DIY BMS reset. Thanks to someone who posted the fix on YouTube - here it is. I think this might solve the problem for a number of forum members who like me still like to do some of my own maintenance. For the 2013+ Fusion, turn car on, but Do Not Start. Flash high beams five times, and hit brake 3 times releasing fully each time. Within 5 seconds battery light will flash 4 x showing a successful reset. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4sG3ufFiXs

Had 2013 Fusion into shop for dash lights, problem was a rubbed wire rf wheel sensor up in conduit away from the sensor. My code reader did not show any codes however the dealership had a wheel sensor code, which prompted the search for the prob. Other posts on this forum show similar problems. The dealership explained that the warning codes probably shut down the cruise, blind spot sensor etc as the info was confusing for the computer. Wire was repaired and now everything is back to normal. It sounds like this is a common problem and perhaps a service bulletin should be issued to help diagnose the problem with the car.

I had the same problem and same solution. The code was rf sensor and the sensor wire was rubbed up in the conduit away from the sensor. Dealership diagnosed and repaired, and explained that the air bag and blind spot sensor and cruise were not working because computer was confused by improper data input. Sounds like there should be a service bulletin on this issue. once repaired all lights out and everything works again.

I have the same issue with a 2013 Fusion.. I thought it might be related to a low battery as I had it parked outside in Canada for 2 winter months. I will let you know if I find a solution.

I have had problems with premature tire wear on my 2013 Fusion Titanium AWD. The factory Goodyear Eagle LS2's wore out at 29xxx kilometers (20xxxmiles) and had some cupping on the rear. Neither Goodyear nor the Ford dealer would do anything for me, so I bought a set of Pirelli P7 tires from Costco and have been diligent about wheel alignment, but these tires (warrantied for 90,000 km) are almost down to the wear bars at 60xxx km, about a third of expected lifespan. I do drive from Canada to Palm Springs each winter, and have made the trip twice on these tires, but think they would not make a third trip this winter. Are other owners experiencing this premature tire wear with the 2013 and up Fusions?? I can discuss warranty with Costco but it seems there is a problem in my car rather than the tires.

The bolt pattern is 5x108, offset 35 - 45 but I can't find center bore measurement on any website. Does anyone know the center bore, or what other wheels would fit for winter tires? Would look at 17" for winter tires if they would clear the brakes.