brunobus

Yup, not too bad. Really tight spaces to work in, but I have had worse. She's a happy car again.

It did post a code this morning. P0209 IIRC. Low turbo pressure. Hose clamp on the intercooler.

Was coming to a stop to park and right before I stopped, I heard a pop come from the engine bay. Went and did my thing, hopped in the car to head home, but now, there is obviously no turbo pressure build up. Blow off valve failure? No check engine light or anything, just running like a standard 4 banger with no turbo. Thoughts? 2013. 2.0EB.

When I purchased the vapor canister, I got it from Tasca Ford and it was only like $75 including shipping and it includes the purge valve. If your car actually stalls and both sensors have not been replaced, then I would start with the other sensor before you move on to the canister.

The dealer replaced the :BU5Z-9F972-B (low pressure) and I replaced the other one (high pressure). I thought I had posted the part number in one of my previous posts, but cannot find it. Honestly, I am not sure exactly where the low pressure sensors sits. I was planning on replacing that one myself, but then the dealership covered it under warranty when they found the issue with it during my transmission replacement.

I do still also still get the stutter every once in a while and it is always shortly after having filled my tank. My best guess on this is that I did always top off my tank in the past before reading some comment on this thread about not doing that. I probably have some raw fuel stuck in the vapor canister (this is for what is called on board vapor recovery and the reason why most of the country is now disabling their Stage 2 vapor recovery systems at their fueling sites). I suspect that the computer only tries to purge the vapors from the canister shortly after you fill up. Those vapors are being directed into the engine so they can be burned through the combustion process. Having some raw fuel mixed in with the vapors may very well be "flooding" the engine which is then creating the stumble that we are seeing. There may also be other times when the computer decides to purge the canister, again possibly creating a stumble at idle. Personally, I had every intention of replacing my vapor canister. I ordered one in and was ready to replace it until I started reading through the workshop manuals. My car is AWD, so I have the entire axle assembly in the rear that sits directly over (under actually) the vapor canister. In order to replace the canister on my car, I would need to basically remove the entire rear sub-frame. Not something I wanted to tackle to try and prevent an occasional engine stumble. However, if your car is FWD only, it is a really simple task of disconnecting the lines, wiring, unbolting it from the car and sticking the new one in. Probably a 2 hour job for a first timer, 30 minutes for a trained technician. Again, I have not really studied the sequence of operation of the vapor canister (I know it is somewhere in the shop manual), but so this is all just a supposition based on the timing of the stumbles and other information that I have gathered.

I replaced the one at the fuel rail myself, the dealership replaced the other. There are definitely 2 of them. Read my previous posts for details.

Hey back at you!

I would say that it is one of the 2 fuel pressure sensors over anything else. One thing to note is that if you are under 60k miles, these parts would be covered under the power train warranty.

Quick update. They replaced the transmission under warranty and while doing a system check the low pressure sensor showed a failure. Techs notes said that the manual gauge was at 75 psi when the computer was indicating 0 psi. Part # jives with what Kenny posted above :BU5Z-9F972-B. I assume that will take care of the stalling issue. We shall see.

Hmmmm.... Guess I will have to give that sensor a try. Car has been at the dealership though for about 3 weeks now working on a tranny issue. Hopefully they will end up replacing it (under warranty). If anyone is interested, I have a brand new vapor canister that will probably not be getting installed anytime soon. Since my car is AWD, it requires taking the entire rear end apart to get to it and I am not that ambitious right now, especially if low side pressure sensor takes care of the problem for about $25. Unfortunately, they do not take the rear end apart to change out the tranny or I would just have them install the new one now.

If they did not change out the fuel pressure sensor, then that should have been the first thing that they tried. Strangely enough, even though I have not been topping off the tank since April when I replaced the sensor, for about the last 2-3 weeks, the stalling issue has shown back up. It even popped up a P0087 code one time. Still getting the same gas mileage, so my thoughts are leaning toward the purge canister. Anybody have a diagram of where it is located on the car or what the process is to change it out? Parts aren't too expensive at $60 for the canister and $20 for the valve.

Since I saw the above message pop up, I thought I would throw in another update since installed the pressure sensor. Mileage has consistently been above 20, closer to 21, whereas before it was in the 18-19 range. Took a mostly highway trip last week (about 200 miles) and the computer showed 34 MPG for that trip, running at about 80 MPH for most of the way. Went a total of 386 miles on that one tank and averaged just over 24 MPG (the other 184 miles was mostly city and some highway). Definitely worth the $35 that I spent on the sensor. After fueling, it will still, every once in a while, hiccup a bit, but had never stalled since then. Of course I also stopped topping off the tank, so I think that made a big difference. If you are having poor mileage, but not necessarily stall issues, and are either under warranty or are able to change that sensor, I would highly recommend it.

About 2 weeks now since I replaced the fuel pressure sensor. It only stalled one time since then. I happened to go in for an oil change the following day after it stalled and, while I was waiting, I went and picked the brain of one of the service writers to see if they had seen stalling issues. His first thought was the fuel, of course, then the fuel pressure sensor. I explained that those were not the issue. He mentioned that the only other one that they had come in with this symptom had to have the purge canister and valve replaced, which took care of it. He asked if when I fill the tank I stop at the first click or keep filling. I, of course, keep filling until it is completely full. Have done this with every car I have ever owned. The interesting thing is that the day that the car stalled, I had filled the tank about 2 hours prior. So, I still think that the fuel pressure sensor was part of the issue because of the increase in mileage that I have seen since replacing it, but am now also thinking that topping off the tank may be an issue. Have not yet had to fill up again yet, but I will be more careful going forward and see what happens.

Changed the sensor out on Saturday. I think it took longer to wait for the engine to stall after pulling the fuel pump relay than it did to actually change the sensor. As for the process I simply took the engine cover off, opened up the fuse panel in the engine compartment, looked in the OM for the fuel pump fuse, but actually decided that the relay would be easier since it is on the top of the fuse panel whereas the fuse is on the bottom of the fuse panel, started up the engine, pulled the fuel pump relay (#54??), waited for the engine to stall which would relieve pressure on the fuel rail (you may have other methods for this, but I think this is the easiest and most dependable because no fuel pump=no pressure), turned off the power (probably should have disconnected the battery, but was being lazy rather than safe), disconnected the wiring harness from the sensor (the sensor is easy to access on the passenger's side front of the engine just below the intake manifold) (side note: I had to use a pair of pliers to squeeze the clip on the harness enough to release as I could not get it with my bare fingers), removed the sensor, rinse and repeat in reverse. The BIG key to this being a super easy repair was that I just happened to have a 27 mm deep well socket in my tool box that I purchased probably 8 years ago to work on my wife's Explorer, IIRC. Not sure that you will be able to get the sensor out any other way, i.e. adjustable wrench, pliers, etc. Well, you might be able to get it out, but I wouldn't recommend anything but the 27 mm deep well socket to get the new one in. If you don't have one, go get one before you start this project. I only drove the car once this weekend (spring is Miata top down top time here), to the car wash and back home. The car wash time frame should have been enough to cause it to go through its stalling routine, but again, it is totally intermittent. I have to give it a good two weeks of regular driving to see if the stall returns, but I do have a good feeling about it as my short term fuel mileage (from the car wash, which was next to where I refueled and reset the trip odo, to home at about 5 miles) netted 26 mpg. I have not seen a number that high, short of a long highway cruise, well.... probably ever. Definitely nothing like that on city streets. Makes me wonder if the thing has been failing since day 1. Time will tell of course and I will update again after I know for sure.