ripley780

Nice to see others getting into an audio upgrade on this car...I'm doing a very similar install but not going with nearly as much power (for now). I've gone with the MS-8 as well, going to start off with a set of Pioneer D series components. Tweeters and rear coaxials off of DSP...front mids and an Alpine 8" R series sub powered by an Alpine amp. Just a heads up...it is impossible to snake wiring in with the front door molex connectors.I had to physically remove the doors and dremel a notch beside the molex opening. Kind of a PIA but it's the only way to get new wiring in the door for an active system. I was able to route the wiring back into the rubber boot, snake it into the door and with it all re-assembled the wiring is not visible and safe from any chance of chaffing. Also...best way to get through the fire wall with your main power cable is to pull the battery out and look for the OEM grommet behind the ABS module. It brings it through directly behind the steering wheel, again...bit of a PIA but it's about the only known way to get through (plus you end up nice and close to the battery) Good luck, and post your progress!

Interested to know if you have started with the audio project yet? I'm still contemplating a small project probably starting with a DSP, adding a sub and swapping the mids and tweeters up front. My big hesitation is hacking into the factory wiring harness so I've been hunting for any aftermarket harness adaptors but there is so little info to be found on these cars...I would also want to keep it so that it is easy enough to put back to stock if needed (trade in etc...) Things got pretty invasive with my last car's audio and I don't want to go down that road again.

2014 SE 1.5L with just over 11,000km's averaging 34mpg's (7L/100km)...mostly rural and town driving. I could be getting better but it has been very cold for the last couple weeks so I've been using the remote start to let it warm up every morning and afternoon. Average driving habits and I use the cruise control all the time.

It's been a couple days since having the fuel pump and fuel rail sensor replaced and so far everything seems good...car starts right up when cold. I also used to have a slight "bog" when accelerating from approx 40 km/hr that I thought was just natural turbo lag but that seems to have smoothed out as well. This must be a fairly common issue with the new 1.5L motors as there was a specific TSB repair number on the service bill. All said and done I'm very happy with this car...coming from a 400hp 2011 Mustang I am pleasantly surprised by it's get up and go from a stand still, sport mode definitly makes a noticable difference and the MPG's is a bonus (averaging 7 L/100km's or approx 34mpg)

Have been trying to do some research but not getting anywhere...it has been freezing up here for a couple weeks so I've not been able to open up the doors to snoop around either. I suspect the tweeter HP must be either from a cap or filtered from the HU...I can't imagine there would be a set of passives anywhere?? Seems that no one is doing audio on these things because there is FA info to be found out there. I'm hoping it's a full range output from the HU...they look like small tweeters and being off axis I agree anything below 4-5Khz would be hard to pull off.

Definitly a valid point...I went through all this with my last car incl an 80prs HU, amps, sealing a deadening the doors, swapping drivers from Image Dynamics, Ground Zero, CDT, PHD etc etc (it gets frustrating and expensive) I can't complain too much about the stock audio in my new SE...and was even a little surprised with what seems to be a basic Time Alignment feature in the factory HU (I have mine set to driver) The last thing I wanted to do was get as involved as before but did not consider that simply swapping speakers will open a can of worms. A good processor (MS-8, RF 3sixty etc) will probably save alot of headaches and provide a solid foundation to expand in the future...These new highly integrated factory HU's don't make it easy to do a simple upgrade anymore. Good advice Vader14...

Update... Dealer had the car today and thought they had solved the CEL issue by repairing a "loose connection"...unfortunately it came on again when starting the car before heading home after work. Also they are going to be installing a new high pressure fuel pump and fuel rail when parts arrive to address the cold motor over cranking issue. Will post results at that time for anyone else who may be having similar problems...

Interesting...my CEL has also been coming on at random with a cold start (1.5L) but usually goes away after cycling the motor off/on and it has had a chance to warm up. I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow and see if they can pick up any error codes. It is a little annoying on a new car so hopefully it's nothing major.

If the extra amount of engine cranks before starting when cold is not normal for these motors...then I would think there must be some connection to the engine light coming on. What a drag...

I've had this car for about 2-3 weeks (2014 SE) and have taken notice of the amount of cranks before actually starting. In cold weather it seems to crank for 4-5 seconds or approx 9-10 engine cranks before firing up. When warm its fires up right away...I've never had a small displacement turbo-charged car (traded a 2011 Mustang GT) and was curious whether this is actually normal for this motor before resorting to a trip to the dealer... Also the engine light has come on with start up and stayed on but not showing any "warning" code?? Then it inexplicably goes away usually the next time I shut the car off...then restart.

I just traded my 2011 Mustang GT for an ecoboost SE (8" screen, non-sony). I had installed a fairly involved system in the Mustang which consisted of a fully amped and processed active 2-way + sub setup. I love this new Fusion!! but think I may start shopping for a set of replacement components (not really interested in messing with the head unit at this time etc...) So far I've not had any luck finding what fits this car. It looks like components front and back...so I assume the HU handles all the crossover filtering?? Are they 4ohm or 2ohm drivers?? 1" tweeter and 6.5" midbass?? Anyhow, just wanted to ask if anyone has more details before I starting pulling the door cards off. I found the stock audio is actually not bad, but find I have to dial the bass way back or else they distort real quick...Also any recommended brands are appreciated as well as whether or not the ends justified the means ie: was it worth the effort...made a noticable improvement?? Thanks guys