sn3aky

So after watching the video again, I just want to go over a few things he said. He said that braking will feel fine all day and then sudden times after an abs event the car will lose braking ability. For me I drove the car very hard, coming to stops after going 60mph on multiple occasions, with a firm increasing brake never activating the abs to my knowledge (no pulsating peddle or anything, didnt brake that hard that quickly). After the final stop I was essentially gliding to a stop, I had some braking power but no where near what I am used to. I then decided to go back to my car roughly an hour later and go to a nice hill and stop on the hill, then release the brake and slam on the brake pedal to see what it would do. The car glided to a stop. I was having consistent decreasing braking power, no event triggering it. Now I replaced the master and cant get the pressure back up enough to take it off the lift.

I did look into that prior to diagnosing it as the master. I can't recall triggering the abs at all. All breaking events were firm gradual breaking on completely dry road surface. Would the resolution to video be a new abs module?

Hey everyone, had a little too much fun with my 2011 fusion sport and blew the master cylinder (low braking power, brakes were fresh and so are the rotors) after checking fuses and brake fluid levels myself and my friend diagnosed it as master cylinder. Well after replacing the cylinder there is 0 pressure. Tried bleeding the master, then abs, then calipers and am only getting slight pressure in the front and no pressure in the rear. Any ideas as to why I'm not getting pressure?

Thank you for the reply. I took it in and did a full test of every connection I can find. I have resolved the voltage drop as a bad probe tester (just my luck). However what prompted me to check the voltage was dimming of headlights (almost like a pulsing) that is happening at night. Interior lights and headlights will dim slightly without provocation and there is no obvious drop in voltage when I tested it today. I was told by my friend (mechanic) to not go crazy trying to find the problem with the lights as there are so many possibilities that its difficult to pinpoint and the car is getting proper power under full load (wipers, a/c, rear defrost, headlights, additional auxiliary power)

Hello All I posted here a few weeks ago with my alternator troubles, I was getting 12.3 volts under heavy load with my old alternator so I replaced it. Initially my voltage was 14.3 when under full load, now a week and a half later my idle voltage is 13.5 and load voltage is 12.0 When the car is off voltage hovers around 12.2 so I think the battery is good. I'm considering changing the engine grounding strap and the battery grounding strap. Just wanted to know if anyone had any other ideas that I should look out for since I find it odd that my car was doing well for a few days and then back to its old games. Could something else be causing this? Thoughts? Thank you in advance for all your help!

Thank you for the suggestion but I have a feeling that he's going to be way out of my price range due to the fact that it's custom and small company. Any ideas on a good manufacturer that has the proper size to fit my car?

Hello all, recently diagnosed my alternator as being on its last leg. I'm searching for a heavy duty alternator that can put out more power and keep up with aftermarket equipment that has been installed. The equipment in question is for emergency services so I can't have any failures on the system and it must last for the long haul. If you would like any more information to better help then please feel free to ask. Thank you

So after further testing I've come to the conclusion that its my alternator. Testing the voltage with my equipment on dropped the voltage down from 13.8 to 13.7 and then adding in my front defrost and windshield wipers it dropped my voltage down to 12.1 The question now is, do I replace the alternator with a standard one or higher powered one? Also should I add a capacitor to run my equipment off of?

So I took a quick look at it tonight and didn't see anything out of the ordinary with the ground line. I will be testing with a voltmeter tomorrow night and will post the findings. Quick question, should I be testing where the ground is attached to the frame or can I test at any grounded point? I looked around and couldnt easily locate the anchor point for the ground to the battery. It looks like it runs deep down into the engine compartment, possibly under the battery.

So I should be looking at any buildup on the Ground post on the battery and follow that lead to the chassis to make sure its secure and proper? At the junction box, how am I supposed to locate such an issue? Should I be just looking for any loose connections or damaged wires? I know I repeat myself but thank you so much for your help, sincerely appreciate it.

Acting up in my case means some variating idle rpm's, like a slight shake of the rpm's that like to give the car a rough idle every so often. The serious occurrence that happened that got me concerned was one cold morning going on the highway and having my rpm's not reflect my throttle position. When I put my foot on the gas it would react properly and then letting go it would suddenly drop 1,500 to 2,000 rpm's and same thing when applying the gas again just jumping up. Same trip when I let go of the gas it would maintain rpm's as if I had my foot steady on the gas; Roughly 2,500 to 3,000 rpm's. The wrench light came on but no codes or check engine. At first I thought maybe a misfire but after doing some research I saw that TB were an issue in Fusions (not the sport apparently) and my symptoms were similar, although not exact, ie. no limp mode or stalling. All the lights that I can notice are flickering, interior dome light and headlights / perimeter lights. I cant tell if my dash is flickering because its just too tough to tell. I do find it weird how my car is still putting out 14.3V both on and off and with load and without. It seems like my alternator may be still functioning but giving signs of its preparation of a will and testament.

Like I previously stated, its very possible that my mechanic is unfamiliar with ford fusions or the way ford implements ETB. I know for sure that GMC vehicles with ETB's require a relearn process in order to reset idle rpm's. Once again thank you for all the input. My question now is, do I bother removing it and cleaning or should I just grab a new one? How long / How difficult is it to clean the TB properly that it wont give me issues in the next 12 months? As for the alternator, I'm sure its going to be hell on earth. I was hoping that someone would have a little experience with it. I may just have to bring it to my mechanic. He is very hesitant to replace it since all the tests came back clean and is suggesting I wait a month and retest it. He doesn't see the immediate need for the investment in purchasing a new one. Although I really cannot afford to wake up and not have my car start. Its simply not an option for me.

According to my mechanic, anytime an ETB is removed and touched for cleaning it will move the positioning and cause potential issues with high idle RPM's as well as non-equal TB angles under load. I'm just afraid that it will be just my luck that removing my TB and cleaning will not go smoothly and cause an issue that may not be able to be resolved right away. I sincerely do appreciate all of the input everyone is giving, thank you all.

Thank you for the reply Betty. So then this brings my next question. I see plenty of people posting here and on other forums that they're just replacing their TB in 20 minutes without relearning. Is there a real danger to the engine or car as a whole? I know I can replace the TB on my own, the only issue is that I don't own the OBD computer needed to reset the TB position. The reset tool / computer will tell the on board computer that the TB has been replaced and needs to be recalibrated for proper use. This is all done automatically by the computer but without telling it that its been replaced or even cleaned then the car wont know and will assume previous TB position is currently active. As for the system, I haven't made any other mods, I just have a good amount of power consumption being used. I have emergency vehicle equipment installed on the car that is taking in a nice load. Here is some info if you are familiar with loads (9 A (nominal) (13.6 V battery, 11-ohm load at high power) Nominal Voltage Output 64 V) Unit has a standby usage of .5 Amps This is used frequently and is most certainly putting strain on my alternator from recharging the battery when the vehicle is off and the equipment is on. Do you know of any high durability of power alternators that will give standard power but will last with my setup?

Hello all, so I've had my 2011 Sport 3.5L for about 2 years now, purchased it used with 50K on it. Havent had any troubles until recently. The TB seems to be acting up and from the looks of it, I'm not the only one with a ford fusion having TB issues (with the recall and all). So this brings me to my first question. After bringing up the ETB to my local mechanic / friend, he mentioned that the TB after being replaced has to be relearned by the computer and CANNOT simply be disconnected and replaced all willy nilly. Is this correct or is he simply unfamiliar with my specific vehicle? Second question / issue, I have recently noticed my headlights and interior lights flickering (dimming) while the car is running. I have done battery tests both with a load and without and have seen 14 Volts throughout. I do have aftermarket equipment installed on my car but with the equipment disconnected I still receive the same 14 Volts and problems. Is this an alternator issue? I did attempt to do my research first but havent come up with anything regarding the dimming / flickering lights. Thank you for your help!