robinsone

Bore is the same for both, do you have specs on this. All parts on Rockauto are interchangeable including the booster.

So I decided to take the leap and swap out the rear sway bar on my stock '10 SE 2.5. I got 17mm on the stock bar and the Mazda6 FWD '02-'06 I got 19mm. Luckily it came with the larger brackets which needed new bushings specific for the Mazda6 rear bar. It was a bit of a nightmare install, had to drop the rear exhaust muffler, gas tank shield and then spent the better part of 30min figuring it in there. Attached new links after. All in all not a bad process but fitting the bar in was very tight. I also swapped out the Mazda6speed or turbo version front calipers and rotors which was a much easier job, just be careful undoing the hard lines from the rubber one as I twisted mine. Much easier install and everything fit to stock points.

try roughing up the grounding points and see if that helps

Try replacing the MAF.

I had a bad MAF that never threw a code, swap out the MAF, don't clean it, that may help cars with less mileage.

Confirmed as the Alarm or lock module (junction box or smart box). Symptoms are no FOB locks or auto locks, no trunk button, brake light, tpms light, door open light, no radio, blinker inoperable, locked shifter. Car did start and run, but I did have a battery drain as well so ended up with a dead battery. Replacement was relatively easy. A number of odd connectors and the unit slides out while holding up a clip. Not yet available at any dealership. Ordered from a junkyard. This unit is quite sensitive to shock or drops. It states on the unit "SCRAP IF DROPPED" so it needs to be packaged very well if being shipped.

So I know there was a throttle body recall, I had mine replaced for free, but also perhaps swap out the MAF. I had a bad MAF, realizing you have low miles. I also had the ground strap put on and that helped mine, but the strap, TB, and MAF have been things that have caused a start, idle, and die issue on mine.

I believe there was a recall on the throttle bodies. I had mine replaced for free, maybe check that.

This recently happened to me upon starting my car one morning '10 with 241k on it. I had a number of cluster lights come on at the same time, despite the Christmas tree of lights the problem is the Alarm and Lock module part number 9E5T-15604-BH they are backordered nationally so you're only option is to get them used on Ebay. This part is also sometimes referred to as the junction box or smart box or smart junction box. It's inside the car and not in the engine bay.

Man this is not coming from the sunroof drains. This comes from the broken body seam/sealant in the rear wheel well. You need to tackle this as soon as possible. I'm still dealing with it but you need to get a hold of it ASAP. Mine got worse to the point that I lost the pinch weld in the pic you reposted. It's not fun and hard to tackle until you lose the whole pinch weld area.

I have a '10 with 220k miles on it. I've developed a mild intermittent problem that stumbles or stalls out when placed in reverse. No other symptoms or codes pop up. Not sure if this could be due to a MAP sensor or a transmission solenoid perhaps. Let me know if anyone has had something similar, thanks.

So I had these warnings and solved them without the rack replacement. I figured it might be ground or an electrical issue. I ground down the neg points to bare metal to assure they had better contact. I did this on the driver-side strut mount as well as the passenger. There are two additional ground points one on the frame rail by the belts as well as under the airbox. I also performed the same treatment on them. Sanded or Dremel-ed them down to bare metal reattached and then covered with dielectric grease. The intermittent power steering fault notifications have stopped. Bear in mind I only had these notifications on start-up but they would usually disappear quickly after the engine got going. It might be worth a try to see if this might solve it.

That last picture with the debris was the front wheel. I noticed when I had issues with the rear wheel wells. Given that amount of bubbling you need to get it down to bare metal and start removing metal. In all seriousness, you have a massive rust problem. I ordered a rocker panel from this site https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body-rust-repair-panels/ford/fusion/2006-2012/06-12-ford-fusion-slip-on-rocker-panel-2590643l.php You may not need all of it but that rust is severe I'd highly recommend opening up your panel as well as redoing the seam sealant again. The pic with all the debris was from the front. I would check that to remove the debris. The rear wheel wells don't have that much room, but water does get behind there and will seep into the rocker panel and just sit. It'll eat away at it before you know it.

Try this, had a similar but not exact problem

They work well and can fit on any car I think I have one on my '10 Fusion and it works great

I need to replace a number of suspension parts on my '10 with 219K. It doesn't seem there is much difference between Moog and Mevotech. Also, I'm looking at struts/shocks so I wasn't sure what people's experience has been with KYB, Monroe, etc. Let me know, thanks.

Has anyone thought or attempted to put I would assume larger OEM Mustang front calipers on their Fusion? I'm running the 17" Mustang wheels from 2010 on my own 2010. I would imagine the mounting points are the same, perhaps the need for larger rotors which the wheels would accommodate. I know this would also require a larger master cylinder, but I'd believe you could just through in a similar year Mustang MC for that purpose. Has anyone thought or attempted this at all?

I've solved where the water is coming from. I've outlined how to stop the water from getting into the rocker panels. Needless to say you have some work to do in order to remove the rust and attempt it from getting worse.

For the rear doors the rust there hopefully is superficial, but something that just needs to be removed and can be done with a Dremel. I applied POR-15 here too, two coats, and will see how long it lasts.

So I've determined the source of the water penetration of the rear rocker panel rust. It's due to a faulty seam sealer gap that eventually opens up. This gap is behind the plastic wheel cowling and is in front of the wheel. It should be obvious if you take the plastic wheel off cowling off. You can easily see the rust hole that leads into the rocker panel. So the water gets inside the rocker panel and rusts it from the inside out. If you have visible rust here, trust me it's much, much worse than whatever it may look like from the outside. If you have visible rust on the outside, it needs to be addressed immediately. The solution was to remove the rust then I applied POR-15, a minimum of two coats. Then I applied seam sealer and went ahead and re-seamed the entire wheel well just for good measure. The day after a rain I went back to check things and you can see the water stain or remnants of where water had been. So water was clearly getting in behind the plastic cowl. In addition, there seemed to be an accumulation of dirt/sand, etc toward the rear of the cowl so I removed it and applied seam sealer there too. I'd also take a look at the FRONT driver side cowl there was a massive accumulation of material leaves etc which when following rain could remain wet for weeks and lead to rust.