kafox

To be clear, this was not the only issue I was having with the car. Transmission issues, weird engine noises. a/c fan noises, radio issues. I agree that it most likely could have been fixed, but I had taken it to multiple places and none of them could pinpoint it. I never did get around to replacing the struts, which was most likely the cause of this particular issue.

Wanted to let you all know that I traded in the Fusion because I was having way too many problems with it and Ford was being less than helpful. So it seems we will never get a resolution to this. Proud owner of a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Sport!

I agree that this is absolutely ridiculous. The lack of real information from anyone at Ford is also annoying. I have not tried it on my Fusion and don't plan to until it gets released for real (though it will probably be identical to the update released for the other vehicles).

How did you all convince your dealerships to install the parts from TSB 11-10-26? Two different ones have told me no and one of them even charged me a $50 diagnostic fee but still wouldn't do it.

Any idea when you plan on posting the pictures? This would be insanely helpful to many.

Thanks. I really do appreciate the info. How do you guys feel about quick struts? Seems like the easiest way to replace the whole package? Or should I just stick with Motorcraft?

Thanks for the info! Can anyone answer my questions from a few posts up? Thanks!

Hmm.. I don't have a torque wrench unfortunately. The shop that did the brakes (had the wheels off last) came with great reviews and didn't seem like a place that would cut corners.

It is likely that both CV joints would fail around the same time? Can you explain more about the lack of a 'locker' configuration and how it relates to the tires? It's not something I have heard of before. Yes indeed. Got new brake pads and rotors on all 4 just last week. The old rotors certainly were warped though. I tend to agree with you guys that something besides my wheels being out of balance is certainly wrong here but none of the shops I have brought it to can seem to find anything. I did manage to slightly shimmy myself under the car to look at the CV boots and neither of them looked to be torn and I didn't see evidence of any grease splattered anywhere. Unfortunately, I don't have a jack besides the one that comes with the car and I don't trust that one if my head is going to be underneath. What other kinds of troubleshooting can I do on my own? Should I go to an empty parking lot and try doing some turns to see if I can hear any clicking or anything? Also, how would worn struts/shocks factor into the situation? I am almost certain those need to be replaced as well. My ride is pretty rough and I get a lot of body roll on turns and significant nose diving when braking. Sorry for the million questions. Trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks

Just thought I would update this since its been a while. The issue seems to have dissipated somewhat with the warmer weather (not sure how that makes any sense). I also recently got new brake pads and rotors all around which took care of the pulsation when braking, They also went over the suspension again when they did the brakes and didn't notice anything. Still getting a less severe vibration at highway speeds and it does seem to vary from day to day which is still odd but I'm less concerned about it now. I might take it to get the wheels roadforce balanced just to see what that does. I'm going to have them keep checking the suspension when I bring it in for other stuff just to be safe.

Codes haven't come back yet, so I think I'm all good. Thanks!

Sorry, was on vacation. Codes have been reset. Will follow up if they come back. Thanks!

Pulled out my old scan tool I bought for my 2000 Taurus and decided to test it out with my 2012 Fusion SEL. Pulled two codes: C1235 and C1236. These are both ABS Sensor codes for the rear wheels. I recently got a flat tire (three days ago) on my Right Rear wheel and had the spare on for a short period to bring it to the shop to have a new tire put on (only drove maybe 6 miles). Wondering if the spare being on there would cause this code? But then why would the code be present for both rear wheels? There is no light on the dash at this time, so wondering if these will go away over time or if I need to bring my car in to get these checked. Here is the full text of one of them: ===ABS DTC C1236-20=== Code: C1236 - Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Missing Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Anti-Lock Brake / Traction Control Module Diagnostic Trouble Code details Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Missing Short circuit This DTC may be caused by : Sensor Sensor Previously disconnected. Damaged or contaminated connector --- Possible Causes -------- C1236 can be generated by: -Missing LR Wheel Speed Sensor - Dislocated or misaligned LR Wheel Speed Sensor - Missing LR Wheel Speed Ring. The code is set normally when the speed from one sensor differs from the speed on the other three sensors. The vehicle speed must exceed 20 kph (13 mph) for this code to be set. ===END ABS DTC C1236-20=== THANKS!

No they didn't show me. Unfortunately, I drop off before they open and pick up after they close so its tough for them to show me anything in person. What do good ones and bad ones look like?

Took it to a completely different shop yesterday. They had two guys test drive it, put it up on the lift checked everything out thoroughly. I specifically asked about that and they said they did it and everything seemed fine. Their opinion is that its just that the brakes are about 10k miles from the end of their life and are starting to grind slightly. They also said there is a little bit of rust around the edges of the rotors which doesn't help things. They also said I MIGHT want to have my front tires re-balanced but they didn't think it was truly necessary. This shop came with high recommendations and they took the time to explain everything to me. So if two different shops tell me there is nothing wrong in the suspension, I am inclined to believe them. Guess I will wait until its time for the brakes and then reasses after that! Thanks!

Had the shop look at it again a few days ago. They don't have a Hunter machine but said none of the wheels were out of round. Not sure how they checked? Maybe I should bring it to a place that does have a machine. Asked them about everything else and they couldn't find anything wrong. Offered to machine down the rotors to fix the brake vibration but I declined because I felt that they were just guessing at that point. One more thing to note, the brake vibration that I feel when hitting the brakes firmly at speed seems to be more of a rapid thump thump thump or thud thud thud feeling as opposed to brake pulsations I have felt in other cars when the brakes were worn down. Would this be more indicative of a suspension issue? They said they didn't see anything but I am not sure how in depth they actually checked. Will probably be bringing it somewhere else from now on to have it checked. EDIT: And also, I notice that after I hit the brakes at speed, the vibration when not braking is worse. It also seems to somehow "reset" each time I let the car sit (overnight or while at work) and goes back to minimal vibration again until I brake. Its just so strange. Thanks

e Still haven't had a chance to test this...could be a while! Regarding my last question...any ideas? Could the jump start have caused any issues? Also, where is the antenna amplifier? Somewhere in the trunk? Can't hurt to have a look at it and make sure everything looks good. Thanks

Thanks all! Looks like this could be quite a number of things. Calling the shop tomorrow and hope to have them look at it this week. Will make sure to ask them about as many of these things as I can!

About 61,500 miles. Purchased it about a year ago with 42,000 miles. Very first thing I said when I test drove it, "this thing drives pretty smooth", now not so much. Will certainly have them checked out the suspension. Not sure if the shop used/has a Hunter machine. I will call and ask. I can't speak to the lug nut torque as the shop did all of that. I would hope they would torque them to spec, but who knows? I don't really have a way to check on my own. Brake fluid hasn't been flushed since I've owned it. Not sure before that. They said there was no "evidence" of sticking. I don't know if that means they just looked at the rotors and didnt see any bad spots or if actually took them off and checked everything. I'm not sure about the pads. Will have to have them check this. Thanks!

Hi All, 2012 Fusion SEL 4cyl. I've been having some problems for the last few months with my car vibrating/shaking at highway speeds. The vibration USUALLY starts around 60 MPH but doesn't go away if I get above a certain speed. The other strange thing is that the severity of it tends to come and go even over the course of one trip (my typical commute is 30 miles each way). I can feel the vibration very slightly throughout the whole car and in the steering wheel but it gets noticeably worse when I step on the brakes at speed (slowing down from 70 to 35 for example) and I can feel it in the pedal. I also notice that the ride quality of my car is generally pretty rough which means I probably need new shocks/struts but not sure if this can cause/contribute to shaking issues or if its completely separate. Things that have been done/checked by the shop: Had all wheels balanced (twice) Brake pads checked (wearing evenly and still have life) Check for caliper sticking (no evidence of this found) Replaced two rear tires because they were mismatched So where do I go from here? I was thinking perhaps warped rotors, but they would have noticed that when checking the brakes, right? Would a bent wheel have been discovered during the balancing? Other than this the only thing I can think of would be work/broken suspension parts. Any suggestions are very much appreciated! Let me know if I need to give more detail about anything. Thanks!

Can someone upload the 4.6 update somewhere so I can take a look at it? Hasn't been rolled out for my VIN yet. Thanks!

Unfortunately, the area around the pinhole is plastic, but yes a small pin might be able to fit in the pinhole. Might be a while before I have time to do this but will let you know the result. I asked around and it seems like Ford charges about $100 to reprogram the radio to my VIN. Not too expensive but still sucks. I'll have to consider whether it is worth it for that money. Also, something I just remembered the other day. AROUND the time that this all started happening I stupidly left the car in ACC for too long and drained the battery. Jumped the car and everything has been fine since, but is there anyway the jump could have fried something? Just grasping at straws here.

See Pic: http://i.imgur.com/K4q07KO.jpg I took the measurement from the part circled in red (metal things you can see stick out around the inside of the connector) to a ground. Should I have somehow used the part circled in blue? perhaps a paperclip might fit in there or something? The outer shell of the end of the cable is plastic with a metal ring next to it. Should that metal ring be where the second probe goes instead of a ground? Sorry for all the questions, this is mostly new stuff to me. I'll have to call the dealership about the radio thing. I wouldn't be surprised if they charge a butt load for stuff like that. Thanks

Regarding the antenna center conductor. That's the one that's supposed to be around 75 ohms? I'm not convinced I took the measurement correctly. I used the pieces of metal that stick out around the inside of the connector. Was I supposed to somehow measure from inside the pin hole? I couldn't fit the probe in there. Let me know if this is unclear, I can upload a pic. The part number is actually BE5T-18D822-AB but these still can be found for about that price on ebay. How will swapping this affect SiriusXM? Will I have to give them a new Radio ID or something? Also, how will it affect SYNC? Thanks. I really appreciate all the help.

1. Reception was arguably worse with the temporary antenna. Tried moving it all around the car and it was obviously better in some spots than others but still getting the same static/crackling noises. I wasn't sure if the car was supposed to be on or off for these measurements so I did both. Keep in mind I am not very experienced with a multimeter. 2. Car off: 12 volts / Car on: 13.7 volts 3. Car off: 12.6 ohms (20k scale) / Car on: 12.6 ohms (20k scale) 4. Car off: .1 ohms (200 scale) / Car on: .5-1 ohms (200 scale) This one confused me since it was so far off from the 75 ohms you mentioned. Not sure if I did it wrong somehow? 5. How about 5 of them? So what are the next steps from here? Should I try finding a new ACM from ebay or the junkyard and see where that gets me? Thanks