Linc

I am experiencing a parasitic loss issue that is draining the battery. The dealer changed out my passenger air bag on the recall and gave me the car back with this issue. They spent days trying to solve the problem but then just gave it back and said "we didn't cause this issue". What I have found is that fuse 16 from the BJB has about a 1 amp draw on it when the car is off and you can hear a ringing sound from the TCM. Pulling the fuse kills the draw and silences the ringing sound. But does not entirely eleviate the parasitic loss. I have a couple of codes about network commutation and I think this is likely more of a cause than a symptom. Does anyone have a pinpoint test for this? I have to note after the dealer changed out the SJB about a year and a half ago I had this same probem but it resolved itself before I could find the problem. This leads me to believe the dash harness may be involved in the problem since both service items involve that main harness. Also the old threads about my sport shifter problem also point to this harness. Thanks for the help.

I have just experienced this on a 2010 Sport. I was told my sensors were bad, since they are about 9 years old, I said change them all at $3 each. Once that was done the problem got worse and I had additional issues and errors including my interior lights flashing. The dealer told me the computer was stuck in 'learning mode' and that I needed to change the SJB (Smart Junction Box). This is on order now, so we will see. Hope this helps you in some way.

So for my issue, the headlamps in the car when I got it were reproduction, not OEM. I bought 'better' and 'different' non OEM headlamps and have not had a problem in the last 100k miles. So knowing what I know now, I would make sure the headlamps are not cheap reproduction units.

So all my problems were/are connected to humidity and temperature. When it was cold, or wet the sport mode would not activate or function properly or at all. When warmer and dry everything works as expected. This revelation told me that I had a connection issue, so replacing that harness I had purchased previously became a necessity. Also using dialectic grease on every connection to keep out moisture. This appears to be the solution.

Just discovered that I have a trans fluid leak and it appears to be the cooler lines. I have to validate that but I was wondering if anyone else has done this yet? I want to know what the most direct method is to get at them and replace them.

Probably so. I guess when the new lights get here I will be starting with that situation.

I purchased my 2010 just over a year ago and have experienced this problem on my drivers side headlamp. The light was find for a long time, say close to 9 months and then it went out. I bought a bulb not thinking anything of the situation at all. But when I went to replace it, the old one came back on when I touched the wires, so I left it alone. At this point the light would go on and off randomly. So I went to change the bulb and found the actual plastic melted where the wiring contact the bulb. So I snipped off the end and grafted on a new plug. Several months later the problem returned and upon inspection I noticed the same melting starting to occur. So this time I put in the new bulb, thinking the bulb might be the problem. Now this week I am back to a melted socket and a light that will not stay on. It appears the headlamp on that side is a reproduction like the original poster of this thread. Since I wanted to upgrade I just bought some LED units and spoke to the manufacture about the bulbs and wiring. They told me they would honor a one year warranty without question, which I made them put in writing. When the arrive I will install them and see if things get better. I did check my bulbs based on this thread and did see that they were NOT the 80 or 100 watt units.

Well this post is from a month ago, how did it go?

So this thread is now ancient, so I wondered if you can give us any updates on your car themason?

Is this forum dead?

I didn't do a total removal of mine. I replaced the seals,added a drain, and did a flush and refill of the fluids. There are plenty of threads out on the net for a total removal. Just search for Ford PTU removal or something of that nature. The repairs required a few key tools to get it done and they were relatively inexpensive on ebay. The deflector removal tool was the one I bought twice, the first tool that was listed for this process was junk and would not work. Also when it comes to getting parts, if you have the old style deflector you will have to source that one separably as it no longer comes in the rebuild kit. Or at least my parts people could not find it in one.

Indeed !

The only good answer to your question is to take it out and take it apart. A much larger job, but at least you would know that it was good. And if you go that far you might as well perform a total rebuild on it once you determine how much wear is present. My "guess" is that you would know if it was toast. Sorry that I cannot give you the magic bullet.

Well it certainly sounds like you have the infamous PTU leak. The job is tough, but doable and it has probably been empty for a while. Watch this video and you will see the basics of how to fix it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLFFcVHptxs I did mine in about 2 hours and my car only had 67k on it. If you are going to do this, you might also consider adding a drain plug to it because they come from the factory with one unless the car is destined for the Middle East or something like that. The following link will show you the steps to add the PTU drain. http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=1704.0 Good Luck with it. Try not to get to frustrated, it's just a car and they all need fixing.